We had the chance today to past by the Bulgari villa for the LVMH Watch Week 2020 presentation and finally got our hands on the releases presented from the Octo Finissimo line and the new Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon.
At first glance , the tray was impressive, it really shows the dedication Bulgari has put into their watchmaking segment and the continuous improvements and innovation they are introducing. Some might say, they are pushing the Octo Finissimo variety of models too far, however, looking at the releases one by one – there are some very eye catching and amazing pieces being introduced every year.
I agree on one point that there are many variations of the same models in titanium, gold, black pVD coated… which could be controlled more to preserve the uniqueness and limitation of such offerings.
Five new Octo Finissimo models have been launched with varieties in satin polished steel ,sandblast polished ceramic, rose gold and of course the new minute repeater in rose gold.
The new Octo Finissimo line now comes with a 100m water resistance , all in 40mm extra thin case , a transparent case back, automatic BVL I 38 Finissimo Caliber developed in-house with a platinum micro rotor. A 60hours power reserve,
I tried on the three variations that we had presented and I must admit that the satin finished steel is one hell of a watch – sits very well on the wrist and the shine is just about right. Not too flashy and not too subtle neither – the finishing on the steel is spot on – the shine is correct and the black dial has the right contrast with the case.
My second favorite release is the satin finished ceramic – what a watch!! it feels like it came out of space – the shining ceramic is brilliant and the look on the wrist is the right amount of glamour. You are looking for a talking piece that will have eyes rolling and starring at your wrist , then this is the model for you – you cannot be wearing it and go unnoticed. Of course it takes a certain character to pull it off – I don’t think anyone can just wear it and Go – it is a watch with an attitude
I put both watches next to each other the matt finished ceramic from last year and the current release fully satin finished – you can see the statement is very different and the feel from both is quiet the opposite – One is screaming out loud: Look at me and the other one is a much more subtle black pass-partout – I personally loved the 2020 release – i haven’t seen such finishing in the market on any watch in ceramic yet- and i think the choice of black quiet dial is a good one as you don’t need more things to pop from the watch.
Now let’s talk about the ladies innovation and marvelous new world record with the smallest women’s tourbillon n the market.
There are three variations of the Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon, one in Rose Gold and leather strap, one in White Gold and leather strap and third in full bracelet.
The watches are equipped with a totally new movement developed over 2 years specifically for this serpenti model; caliber BVL I 50; the movement is rhodium plated , hand decorated with Cote de Geneve , perlage, beveling and a sapphire bridge.
All cases, dials and bezels are diamond pave and the straps are similar to the previous ones presented in the serpenti watches last year with the leather straps.
A lot of people argue that Bulgari is still a jewelry brand and not always accepting to welcome it into the hall of fame of watchmaking – however with all these achievements today and now adding another world record under its belt – I am not sure what else do they need to achieve to be considered as serious watchmakers.
I think the fact that they dedicated a full research and development for creating a minimalistic tourbillon for ladies after winning the award of thinnest tourbillon in the world for men – this shows the true craftsmanship the brand has but also the fact that both ends, men and ladies, matter. In a current world where the ladies watches are still considered to be better off in Quartz, with some now automatic movements and most focus still on jewelry watches – I find it courageous and admirable for Bulgari to step up the game and choose to offer their ladies collectors something more to brag about and discuss.
A tourbillon is a beautiful esthetically complication that has been very well integrated into the Serpenti line with an impeccable execution. For serious ladies watch collectors who understand the complication of a Tourbillon and enjoy owning such a piece and wearing it – there aren’t many out there for them at the moment.