Inspired by the adventurous spirit of the great explorers and their limitless desire to push the boundaries of the known world, the project epitomises a veritable odyssey paying vibrant tribute to the conquest of land, oceans and the skies, stretching to the furthest reaches of the cosmos.

This exceptional creation combines the first modern interpretation of the “Sympathique” Clock – an 18th-century horological masterpiece – and a limited edition of De Bethune’s iconic DB25 GMT Starry Varius.

AN INTERSTELLAR JOURNEY THROUGH TIME

At the heart of this masterpiece lies the Muonionalusta meteorite, a ten-million-year space traveller estimated to have landed on Earth a million years ago. This fragment of the cosmos meets titanium, a symbol of 21st-century scientific advances and horological precision, in an eminently unlikely encounter between two eras.

A JOURNEY TO CONQUER SKIES, OCEANS AND DISTANT LANDS
The clock reveals itself as a genuine “cabinet of curiosities” displaying hand-engraved gold scenes of exploration, in a manner recalling the dioramas of the great early-19th century explorers and worthy of the finest Renaissance clocks.

A blued titanium dial evoking the Milky Way – an exclusive De Bethune artisanal process – is topped by a gold dome engraved with the Hercules constellation, crafted in the spirit of the sky charts drawn during the Age of Enlightenment.

Mounted on a titanium gimbal suspension system much like those on marine chronometers, the LVDB03 “Sympathique” Louis Varius remains horizontal at all times, ready to brave the elements. A locking mechanism on its floating lugs nonetheless enables it to adopt multiple positions according to the desired direction.

A WATCH BUILT FOR EXPLORATION

Mounted on a titanium gimbal suspension system much like those on marine chronometers, the LVDB03 “Sympathique” Louis Varius remains horizontal at all times, ready to brave the elements. A locking mechanism on its floating lugs nonetheless enables it to adopt multiple positions according to the desired direction.

IN PERFECT SYNCHRONY

At its heart, the LVDB03 GMT Louis Varius nurtures a “Sympathique” (synchronised) connection with its host: via its crown, the clock winds the watch’s springs to restore its power reserve, while ensuring it is set to the correct time with absolute accuracy.

Entirely handcrafted in our workshops, this exceptional project has drawn on the expertise of some 30 specialists across 15 technical and artistic disciplines over several years. Imbued with passion and precision, it heralds a new chapter in the history of contemporary Haute Horlogerie.

“Contemplating this creation is to feel the sense the energy of every hand-crafted touch executed with total mastery – and to dream for just a moment of uncharted horizons.”
DENIS FLAGEOLLET

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A new starry sky and its Milky Way
The DB25xs Starry Varius features a starry sky reddened by the earth in turmoil; while the dial mirrors a celestial canopy tinged by the activity of a volcano and its flowing lava.
Artisans in the L’Auberson workshops combine exceptional expertise and extreme meticulous care in hand-decorating the mirror-polished titanium dials. Their dexterity enables them to set each white gold pin in varyingly sized micro-perforations, bringing to life a poetic depiction of the starry sky. Using laser-beam micro-milling, a Milky Way motif is then revealed by applying 24-carat gold leaf. Like every starlit dial from the Maison, this new sky can be personalised according to a specific geographical location and date.

40 mm of sheer elegance
In a perpetual quest for comfort on the wrist, De Bethune’s classic collection that started out at 44 mm had already been aesthetically revamped in 2078, featuring a slender 42 mm case with revisited lugs.
The DB25 collection continues its transformation with a new 40 mm edition of the Starry Varius. In order to preserve the refinement of its original design, this trimmed­ down interpretation required complete rethinking of this timepiece’s aesthetic balance.
According to Denis Flageollet: “It is important to maintain a beautiful dial aperture so that the observer can be fully immersed in the star-studded sky, thereby preserving the aura of the Starry Varius.”
Its refined case sits perfectly on the wrist. This highly contemporary design with its sloping geometry is distinguished by slender curving lugs – subtly openworked and adorned with ogives – that emphasise the roundness of the object and ensure a comfortable fit.

The display is enlivened by delicately hand-polished rose gold hands gliding over matching hour-markers set on a silver ring.

DB2005: an ever more powerful calibre
On the reverse side, a sapphire caseback with double anti-reflective treatment reveals the impeccable craftsmanship of the DB2005 hand-wound calibre incorporating the latest De Bethune technologies.
Equipped with a balance-spring featuring a flat terminal curve, a silicon escape-wheel and a shock-absorbing system, the DB25xs Starry Varius also incorporates the Manufacture’s latest titanium and white gold balance-wheel. All these patents and innovations have been developed in a contemporary spirit to adapt to the wearing conditions of our time and hence to withstand magnetic fields, shocks and accelerations – with the aim of achieving ever-greater timekeeping precision and unfailing reliability.

“Shaping 21st-century watchmaking in the finest watchmaking tradition means constantly rethinking the craft developing it by modifying an element, a process or a technique, as well as sometimes making tiny, often imperceptible but necessary improvements to push the boundaries of mechanics with precision, reliability and finesse”, says Denis Flageollet.
The DB25xs Starry Varius is available in an ultra-lightweight mirror-polished grade 5 titanium case and in a more classic rose gold version. Each is fitted with an extra-supple double alligator leather strap.

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Swizz Beatz and De Bethune: A Fusion of Horology and Creativity
In 2020, American artist, rapper, and music producer Swizz Beatz challenged De Bethune with a visionary concept centered on transparency and light. The DW5, with its unclassifiable design and avant-garde spirit, emerged as the perfect choice for this first limited edition. Featuring a case composed of seven distinct sapphire crystal elements set within a blued titanium exoskeleton, it unveils the intricate details of an exceptional movement. The paradox between minimalist aesthetics and technical mastery embodies De Bethune’s contemporary and boundary-pushing approach to watchmaking.

For Season 2, the DBD model took center stage, showcasing a refined dial where “Côtes de Genève” and Art Deco-inspired apertures create an elegantly restrained digital display, hiding a complexity known only to the movement. The striking contrast of burgundy and anthracite, paired with a case that merges classical inspiration—crown at 12 o’clock, ogival lugs—with the technological sophistication and lightness of polished zirconium, pays homage to the multifaceted creativity of Swizz Beatz.

Now, for Season 3, Swizz Beatz has selected the reversible DB Kind of Two GMT. Beyond its striking dual-identity design, the timepiece offers a functional advantage: a dual-time display across two distinct dials, seamlessly accessed with a single, ultra-precise flipping motion, an impressive feat of horological engineering by De Bethune.

Two Faces, Two Time Zones: A Masterclass in Technical Complexity
Crafting a watch with two distinct and independent dials was a formidable challenge, requiring the development of a highly sophisticated movement entirely conceived and produced within De Bethune’s manufacture in l’ Auberson, Switzerland.

True to the brand’s philosophy, behind the understated elegance of this piece lies a movement of remarkable complexity, designed to offer a seamless and intuitive GMT function. A precise system of gears and pinions ensures that the hands always move in the correct direction, regardless of the selected dial. Fully reversible, the watch offers the wearer the freedom to choose their display based on time zone or aesthetic preference.

Contemporary Face: Home Time Display
The contemporary dial, with its streamlined aesthetic, accentuates the movement while focusing the time display around the balance wheel at 6 o’clock, with minute markers along the periphery. The interplay of polished, domed surfaces, combined with microlight and satin finishes, creates a spectrum of subtle contrasts that enhance the exceptional depth of the movement’s black coating. Despite its compact dimensions, the watch conveys a striking sense of volume and depth, seamlessly integrating both a jumping seconds complication and a GMT function. A perfectly symmetrical deltoid bridge, positioned at the center like an isosceles triangle, contributes to the overall harmony of the composition.

The self-regulating twin barrels introduce a touch of silver, while golden accents on the hour and minute markers, as well as the dual central gold wheels of the jumping seconds mechanism, elevate the refinement of the dial. The polished, blued steel hands, with a satin-finished steel insert at the center, introduce a discreet yet vibrant hue, playing with light to ensure optimal legibility.

A Case That Marries Function and Form
Elegant yet highly technical, the case is crafted from zirconium and satin-finished Grade 5 titanium. Specially redesigned floating lugs ensure an ergonomic fit, adapting seamlessly to the wrist’s natural movement. The case’s unique construction allows effortless transition between the two dials, achieved with a smooth, precise flipping motion. This ingenious micro-mechanical system, composed of 42 components made from corrosion-resistant materials such as surgical steel and titanium, is engineered to withstand external factors including water, humidity, temperature fluctuations, and offers continuous wearability.

Classic Face: The GMT Display
The GMT face, infused with classic De Bethune DNA, embodies the Maison’s signature aesthetic. The hour and minute track pays tribute to the historical DB8 and DB10 models, while the hand-guilloché central motif, with its seemingly random pattern, is subtly highlighted with hints of blue. Some may interpret this as a nod to De Bethune’s signature blued hands, while others might see it as the shimmering reflection of the sea under a moonlit sky—an open canvas for individual appreciation, shaped by the artistic visions of both Denis Flageollet, De Bethune’s master watchmaker and founder, and Swizz Beatz.

Adding to the poetic elegance of this side is the refined, fluid motion of the polished mirror-finished steel jumping seconds hand—an expression of pure horological emotion.

Ingenious Simplicity: The Adjustment System
Despite its mechanical sophistication, the DB Kind of Two GMT remains remarkably intuitive to use. The dual-sided display is designed for ease of operation: The wearer first sets their home time on the contemporary face first, using the crown in position 3. The second time zone is then adjusted by pulling the crown to its second position while using the GMT face.

Much like Swizz Beatz—an artist of many talents who seamlessly blends genres and influences—the DB Kind of Two GMT Season 3 distinguishes itself through versatility and innovation. This dual-faced timepiece, adorned with deep black nuances, not only showcases De Bethune’s technical prowess but also highlights the Maison’s masterful craftsmanship in blending materials, colors, and light. With its dual display and two distinct personalities—one contemporary, the other classic—it epitomizes the harmonious balance between tradition and modernity, just as Swizz Beatz merges musical styles to create something entirely unique.

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The DW5 was the natural choice for this project that was launched in 2022 at the time of the official museum opening, as much for its futuristic, aerodynamic design as for the creative space its case provides.

Designed in 2014 as a continuation of research into shapes and materials, the DW5 becomes De Bethune’s iconic deltoid motif, an aesthetic code introduced with the first Dream Watch, which establishes a link between the various creations of the independent Manufacture.

The compact structure of Calibre DB2144V2 developed exclusively for the curved asymmetrical case of the DW5, along with the reduced space devoted to the display of its functions – hours, minutes and spherical moon phases – already illustrated Denis Flageollet’s desire for a broader aesthetic playground.

“The Dream Watch collection is one of De Bethune’s mainstays, designed to push the technical and aesthetic boundaries of the wristwatch.

As a concept watch, the DW5 allows me to go beyond simple watchmaking. Like a sculpture, the experimental work carried out on titanium is part of an artistic approach inspired by philosophical and personal reflections.” Denis Flageollet, master watchmaker and founder.

Through its choice of materials and finishes as well as the use of original techniques, the DW5 paves the way towards new cultures and concepts, while retaining its identity strongly inspired by aeronautics and space exploration.

DW5 Al-Amal: a wrist sculpture brimming with hope and optimism Named DW5 Al-Amal, this one-of-a-kind timepiece was inspired by the illuminated calligraphic motifs on the exterior façade of the museum to convey a universal message, like a time capsule sent by humanity.

Entirely made of mirror-polished titanium, the case is adorned with engravings representing six distinct Arabic calligraphies of the word ‘Love’.

Whether friendly, passionate, carnal, spiritual or unconditional, love in Arabic is pronounced and calligraphed in different ways depending on the nuance it adopts. Among the many Arabic words that express this feeling, those evoking ‘Al-Amal’ friendship, desire, the heart, love, passion and faith have been carefully selected. These calligraphies pay tribute to an art that elegantly and flowingly transcends mere writing, making words veritable channels of beauty and emotion.

Watchmaking tradition is all about innovation The art of watchmaking in the 21st century follows in the footsteps of the great master watchmakers of the Age of Enlightenment. Building on a centuriesold culture, it is shaped and forged on a daily basis, continually integrating the scientific and technological innovations of our time into avant-garde creations, driven by De Bethune’s distinctive penchant for introducing philosophical concepts with a cultural mission. The Dream Watch collection is the boldest and most accomplished expression of this horological creativity.

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A limited edition of 25 pieces only

Birth of the DB28 Steel Wheels
The DB28 Steel Wheels came to be in 2018, under the sign of transparency and light, with the idea of opening the dial to reveal the contemporary architecture of its movement. Recognizable by its delta-shaped bridge – a De Bethune hallmark – and its moon at 6 o’clock,  the DB28 Steel Wheels fascinates with a multitude of different forms – hemispherical, concave, spherical – for an architecturally dynamic result.

Ultra-Thin by De Bethune
De Bethune has already opened a chapter in exploring the realm of the ultra-thin Universe in 2020 with the launch of the DB28XP to celebrate 10 years of intense work and research, of a mechanical and aesthetic quest.
Throughout the quest of designing an ultra-thin watch, Denis Flageollet was driven as much by the technical challenge as the aesthetic challenge, by the complexity of ‘finesse’. An adventure in which absolute rigour maintains the balance between design aesthetics and engineering constraints.

As a self-evident evolution, the DB28XP has become an ideal of beauty, of elegance that expresses purity in its most absolute version.

A well-balanced union
Everything in this new DB28XP Steel Wheels engages you to re-discover the art of De Bethune and its vision of watchmaking for tomorrow. A symbiosis between the thinness of the case, the components, the movement and the finishing – all of which resonate with each other in a spirit of great simplicity.

It’s about all the levels at which one experiences a timepiece, its layers, reliefs, the light playing with shadows and reflections. Cut from titanium, the watch reveals an architectural fusion of space, time and light that lingers long after the first glance.

A multitude of different shapes – hemispherical, concave, spherical, a sequence of microlight, satin, polished and blocked finishes allow a continuous interplay of light and shadow By playing with light and shadow, this dial adds depth and offers a more architectural and dynamic result. The watch as whole becomes more contemporary.

The distinctive architecture of Calibre 2115v11 is beautifully highlighted by the decision to trim down the mechanism, notably by openworking the barrels and ratchet wheels, as well as cutting out the heart of the central delta-shaped bridge. The latter is adorned with Microlight decoration, developed by De Bethune. The entire movement thus creates the impression of levitating.

The ratcheted chapter ring inspired by gear-wheel toothing surrounds 12 polished and blued spheres marking the hours and discreetly recall De Bethune’s signature. The hours and minutes hands in the center are made of blued titanium.

All of De Bethune’s timekeeping savoir faire
The hand-wound movement features De Bethune’s balance wheel, visible through the dial thanks to an opening at 6 o’clock. The result of continuously exploring the boundaries of physics and mathematics to improve timepiece operation, it benefits from the latest advances. Its diameter is not too large, either. Made of titanium, it is equipped with small white gold weights placed on the outside to give remarkable qualities of inertia, reliability and regulating ability.

Then there is balance spring. At De Bethune, this minute, extremely fine spring, considered to be the soul of the mechanical watch, maintains its true centre of gravity with a flat terminal curve affixed to the outside of the balance-spring. Differences in the thickness of the blade add to the almost perfect precision of its concentric development. Among the many advantages: lower height, better adjustment of concentricity, finer adjustment of the racquet, no need for pins. The curve’s shape even acts as a shock absorber in case of impact. Finally, the material’s internal structure remains intact since it has been neither stressed nor bent. It is through these numerous tried and tested developments, which are constantly revisited and further improved, that De Bethune has succeeded in increasing the power reserve by 20 percent, bringing it to a total of 6 days.

Equally visible – and geometrically positioned in relation to the calibre’s plate – is the exclusive triple shock absorption system designed to protect the whole assembly. Not only was De Bethune the first to design a bridge held on both sides, symmetrically, to ensure the balance is kept perfectly in position. The Maison also added two shock absorbers at each end to supplement the shock absorber of the pendulum itself. Hence the name “triple pare- chute” or triple shock absorber, which effectively absorbs and dampens violent shocks with springs instead of screws mounted on perfectly polished axes.

Unparalleled comfort
Like all the models in this collection, the DB28 Steel Wheels still surprises observers by the light feel of its case, entirely crafted in titanium, and by the presence of De Bethune’s patented floating-lug system adjusting to wrist size and movements.

A more pronounced curvature, flowing with the lines of the wrist. The plate’s Microlight finish is echoed along the sides of the case band, rendered all the more meticulously in the absence of simple geometric forms.

The finishing touch: an alligator strap with a titanium buckle, which also contributes to the practicality and everyday wearability of this very special timepiece.

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The little sister of the DB25 World Traveller introduced in 2016, this new GMT model accentuates the aesthetic appeal and undeniable character of the DB25 Starry Varius.

Invitation to travel

The De Bethune teams set themselves the challenge of developing a travel watch during a period when travel had become difficult, if not impossible, so that when life resumed, it would be ready to takes its place on the wrists of the most discerning globetrotters. If you can’t yet spontaneously meet up with your friends and family, this is an invitation to travel in your mind. The DB25GMT Starry Varius does indeed offer a simple and effective way to stay connected through time by indicating the time zone in which your loved one lives. “What on earth was I thinking of in working on a new GMT travel watch while all the countries of the world were entering lockdown? I am pleased that it is now finished and that all the nomads of the planet can finally resume their journey, doubtless with a different view of our world.” Denis Flageollet, Founder and Master Watchmaker of De Bethune

An evolving Starry Varius

Incorporating all the inherent codes of the DB25 Starry Varius collection, namely a polished grade 5 titanium case with a 42 mm diameter, a starry sky accompanied by its Milky Way, perfectly integrated openworked lugs, and a screw-down sapphire caseback providing a glimpse of the movement, this new adaptation of the DB25 World Traveller has everything it takes to win over its future owner.

Despite housing such a complicated movement, it is nonetheless slim and elegant on the wrist, even reinforcing the already greatly appreciated characteristics of the DB25 Starry Varius. Its user friendliness and the smooth setting of the GMT movement make it an intelligent and remarkably beautiful watch.

Reading the dial

Starting from the centre, the dial indicates the date on the first disc with the help of its jumping date hand, which can be adjusted via a corrector at 6 o’clock. The hours of the first 24-hour time zone (home or reference time) are marked by the microsphere in a mysterious manner, as it appears to be floating weightless in its corridor. This function can be set in both directions (clockwise/counter-clockwise) via the crown. Local time, i.e. the second time zone, is indicated by the blued hands whose curvature follows the relief of the dial. The minutes hand naturally remains coordinated with the reference time, while the hours hand indicates the local time thanks to the second time zone. Local time can also be set by the crown, in both directions.

The GMT function

Despite its complex construction, this mechanical GMT movement is very simple to use, with concentrically arranged functions. First of all, the owner uses the crown to set his reference time, known as home time, which is indicated by the microsphere on the 24-hour dial. Representing De Bethune’s technical signature since its development of the three- dimensional moon-phase display, this microsphere indicates day and night thanks to its two halves: one blue and the other pink. It gradually turns at 6am and 6pm, thereby imitating sunrise and sunset. Secondly, the wearer sets his second time zone by means of the hours hand which is controlled via the crown pulled out to the second position.

Day/night

In the centre of the curved dial, De Bethune offers us a poetic vision of our sky by day and by night. A polished pink gold sun in the centre of a microlight shines over half the disc, while the celestial vault is delicately outlined on the blued polished titanium section. The vision provided is of a miniature night sky, dotted with a multitude of small white gold pins delicately and individually driven into a blued titanium dial. The Milky Way is then hand-crafted using micro laser strokes and 24-carat gold leaf.

Technical spirit

Visible through the sapphire caseback, the reverse side of the movement reveals the latest titanium balance with white gold inlays. This organ has the ability to neutralise the effects of temperature variations thanks to its interaction with the balance spring featuring the “De Bethune” flat terminal curve. Its aerodynamics have also been worked on so as to ensure minimal air resistance. The escape-wheel is made of silicon both for the lightness of the material and to increase the power of the calibre.

The regulator is held in place by a triple pare-chute system which combines a titanium bridge integrating two jewels held in place by a leaf-spring system pressing on the jewels. The two barrels, which are partially visible, have a five-day power reserve thanks to a self- regulating energy mechanism.

A mechanical treasure

While simple and beautiful in appearance, this timepiece nevertheless conceals a mechanical treasure, since it is equipped with the latest hand-wound Calibre DB2507. This is the 29th movement from De Bethune, which once again demonstrates bold technical mastery and expertise by fitting a GMT movement into a Starry Varius case and reproducing a miniature starry sky. The complication and its display have been entirely redesigned with a view to optimising legibility and operating convenience, thereby ideally meeting travellers’ expectations. More than just an ally for globetrotters, this De Bethune creation exudes a classic, avant-garde spirit and an intriguingly mysterious allure.

The post With the release of its 29th in-house calibre, De Bethune is combining its traditional expertise with cutting-edge technology to integrate the first-ever complication into the heart of an emblematic timepiece: the DB25 Starry Varius. appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

A limited annual production

A moment frozen in time, capturing the essence of a galaxy’s birth! De Bethune celebrates the raw power of nature, pure and unaltered energy. Crafted from a meteorite, the DB28xs Aérolite sparks inspiration and resonates with the soul of the explorer within. According to Denis Flageollet, “No other metal is as infused with pure energy and emotion as iron meteorites, which have taken form in the furnace of stars.”

The watchmaking manufacture De Bethune, renowned for its perpetual innovation and horological excellence, is proud to unveil its latest creation: the DB28xs Aérolite. This exceptional timepiece sits at the intersection of watchmaking tradition and modern science, pushing the boundaries of creativity and horological engineering. It marks a new milestone in the brand’s history, drawing inspiration from previous masterpieces such as the DB28xs Starry Seas and the DB28XP Météorite, while introducing a unique and contemporary vision.

DB28xs Starry Seas: A Groundbreaking Innovation on a Smaller Scale

The DB28xs Starry Seas represented far more than just a miniaturization of the iconic DB28 when it was released in May 2023. With its 39 mm diameter, this watch incorporates remarkable technological advancements while preserving the avant-garde spirit of De Bethune. Inspired by the Japanese concept of Wabi-Sabi, this timepiece celebrates beauty in imperfection and impermanence, showcasing a novel random guilloché pattern that evokes the rippled surface of a starry sea. Every element of the watch, from its minimalist design to its cutting-edge technology, embodies a deep reflection on the harmony between man, object, and environment.

DB28XP Météorite: A Fragment of the Universe on Your Wrist

The DB28XP Météorite, launched in 2021, paid tribute to the majesty of nature through the use of the Muonionalusta meteorite, one of the oldest known on Earth. With a dial adorned with unique geometric patterns, this watch is a true work of art forged in the vastness of space. The deep blue of the dial, achieved through thermal oxidation, is speckled with delicate grey gold flakes, recreating a starry sky of ethereal beauty. Each piece is unique, offering clients the opportunity to customize the constellation engraved on the dial, thus creating an intimate connection between time, space, and the individual.

DB28xs Aérolite: A New Era of Creativity and Technical Mastery

“There is no point in working unless it is to progress, and the only way to achieve that is by constantly questioning oneself. Continuously revisiting and rethinking the work, evolving it by modifying an element, a process, a technique, and sometimes bringing subtle, often imperceptible, improvements,” comments Denis Flageollet.

Historically, watchmakers have protected mechanisms from external influences, but precision quickly demanded timepieces that are comfortable to wear and capable of withstanding extreme conditions. The DB28xs Aérolite, with its miniaturized DB2005 caliber, maintains impeccable chronometric quality while gaining in lightness, thereby improving its resistance to shocks and accelerations.

The DB28xs Aérolite stands out by combining the distinctive elements of the DB28xs Starry Seas and DB28XP Météorite models while introducing a new dimension of contemporary watchmaking. A 39mm black zirconium case, paired with a blue meteorite dial, symbolizes the meeting of earth and sky, of ancient craftsmanship and technological innovation.

This watch embodies the essence of De Bethune: an unrelenting pursuit of perfection, a capacity to transcend the boundaries of traditional watchmaking, and a desire to create exceptional objects that resonate with the deepest human emotions.

With the DB28xs Aérolite, De Bethune continues to reinvent modern watchmaking, offering a timepiece that is not only a technical masterpiece but also a timeless work of art.

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Representing the perfect union of technical innovation and contemporary aesthetics, this model offers a bold reinterpretation of the iconic DB28 Steel Wheels in a more compact format, with a case measuring just 39 mm and a thickness of 8mm. This remarkable evolution embodies the brand’s commitment to contemporary watchmaking.

The DB28 Steel Wheels, launched in 2018, embodies the spirit of transparency and light, revealing the contemporary architecture of its movement through an openworked dial. Marked by its iconic delta-shaped bridge—De Bethune’s signature—and its moon positioned at 6 o’clock, this watch stands out with a harmonious composition of hemispherical, concave, and spherical forms, offering a result that is both architectural and dynamic.

DB28xs Steel Wheels: The Art of Miniaturization

True to De Bethune’s pioneering spirit, the DB28xs Steel Wheels embodies the brand’s ongoing quest to push the boundaries of modern watchmaking. By reducing the case diameter to 39 mm, De Bethune didn’t simply miniaturize the original DB28 Steel Wheels; the Manufacture created a new watch that preserves all the architectural and technical richness of its predecessor, while adapting it to a more intimate size. “There is no point in working unless it is to progress, and the only way to achieve that is by constantly questioning oneself. Continuously revisiting and rethinking the work, evolving it by modifying an element, a process, or a technique, and sometimes making subtle, often imperceptible improvements,” comments Denis Flageollet.

A Smaller Design, Greater Intensity

The DB28xs Steel Wheels is instantly recognizable by its openworked dial, which reveals the intricate beauty of its movement. The titanium case, smaller yet equally sophisticated, enhances the harmonious blend of hemispherical, concave, and spherical shapes. This miniature design plays with light and shadow, creating a dial with captivating depth that appears almost weightless.

High-Precision Watchmaking Technique

Beneath the openworked dial lies the manually wound De Bethune caliber DB2115V13, meticulously refined to deliver exceptional chronometric performance. The titanium balance wheel, equipped with grey gold weights, ensures perfect inertia and regulation, while the De Bethune balance spring, with its unique flat terminal curve, guarantees unparalleled precision. The 6-day power reserve, a 20% improvement, is a testament to the brand’s uncompromising craftsmanship.

Comfort and Compact Elegance

Thanks to its reduced size, the DB28xs Steel Wheels offers exceptional wearing comfort. The lightweight titanium case, combined with patented floating lugs, naturally adapts to wrist movements. With the DB28xs Steel Wheels, De Bethune reinvents one of its iconic creations in a more intimate version, without compromising on either technique or aesthetics. This watch embodies the essence of De Bethune’s watchmaking art: a perpetual quest for innovation, precision, and beauty, now available in a 39mm format that will appeal to enthusiasts of exceptional timepieces.

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[ In the vast spectrum of colors, purple elegantly precedes blue, offering a masterful transition between warm and cool tones. It is a color that embodies mystery, imagination, and creativity, capturing the essence of darkness and depth while evoking a certain aura of royalty and splendor.]

In the workshops of De Bethune in l’Auberson, particles become luminous, metals – and titanium here in particular – emit visible light… matter oxidizes, properties change, surfaces transform, and unprecedented natural colors appear. Denis Flageollet, Master Watchmaker and Founder of De Bethune, along with his team initially began working on the tone of blue. A color linked to the notion of infinity and harmony, natural blue is one of the major research fields at De Bethune. It has since become the unique signature of the house.

Like a luminous vibration, each color offers a different type of energy

De Bethune unveils its new chromatic palette with the launch of the DB28xs Purple Rain, a bold evolution! Indeed, before reaching blue, purple unfurls its chromatic richness, merging nuances of red and blue in a harmonious ballet. It’s a color that has inspired artists, poets, and visionaries for centuries, often symbolizing passion, spirituality, and innovation. In the palette of heated titanium colors, purple thus paves the way for the emergence of blue, gradually introducing cool nuances while retaining a touch of warmth and depth. This subtle transition creates a harmonious link between the different shades, offering a smooth continuity in visual perception.

DB28xs

Placing innovation at the heart of the process. Integrating creativity. Pushing the boundaries of innovation. Thinking outside the box. Not repeating, but inventing, ingeniously considering precision, reliability, readability, and comfort. The DB28xs model is not simply a watch aesthetically smaller. It is a watch that opened a new chapter at De Bethune. A model that marked the history of the brand, as it is another step in the initiatory journey that has animated Denis Flageollet for 20 years. If the DB28 is an iconic watch of De Bethune, this new version is all the more remarkable for the particular sense it carries within it. With a significantly smaller diameter than previous models (39mm), while retaining the unique and characteristic design of De Bethune, the DB28xs is a small miracle. Thanks to the technology required to carry out the project. But above all, by the virtuosity of De Bethune in transcending the spirit of the Enlightenment into the world of 21st-century wristwatches, by reformulating exceptional craftsmanship and offering unprecedented aesthetic creation. There is no question of reproducing the past identically. But rather: how to evoke new emotions in the face of exceptional objects? Denis Flageollet’s intention, Master Watchmaker and Founder of De Bethune, is pure. He observes tradition from an innovative perspective and works to make contemporary mechanical watches a cultural incarnation of time measurement on our wrist.

For a beautiful object to be born somewhere, mastery must have reached a certain level of maturity.

If the DB28xs was born of an extraordinary feat, successfully transposing the majestic feeling and grand emotion exuded by the great clocks of the Age of Enlightenment with their scientific instruments, onto a simple wrist, solely through the grace of micromechanics and the delicate aesthetics of a small watch, it opens up the deep innermost thoughts of its creator. Thus, beneath the deceptive appearance of simple miniaturization, the uniqueness of this watch and its design go far beyond its smaller size and its functioning. Between art and science For the geniuses of the Age of Enlightenment, the goal was to create scientific instruments whose beauty emanated from their function, mechanical simplicity, and sobriety. Then, the powerful elevated them into true works of art, enlisting the best craftsmen of their time, such as cabinetmakers, bronzers, and enamelers like Boulle, Caffieri, or Coteau. The success of the DB28xs Purple Rain and the DB28xs Starry Seas demonstrates that Denis Flageollet’s teams are fully imbued with the spirit of De Bethune that stems from this culture. The concept of perpetual evolution in their work and thus their constant self-questioning, relying both on mastery of ancestral craftsmanship and new technologies. This incessant movement is the keystone of the manufacture, which constantly cultivates this mindset. “There is no point in working if not to progress, and the only way to achieve this is to continually question oneself. Continuously rethink and reconsider the work, evolving it by modifying an element, a process, a technique, and sometimes making tiny, often imperceptible improvements,” commented Denis Flageollet.

A lighter, more impact-resistant DB28

For centuries, watchmakers have shielded mechanisms from external influences within towers, tables, and dials. As the quest for precision evolved, so did the desire to wear these timepieces. Adapting this chronometric precision to various and often extreme wearing conditions, including resistance to shocks, accelerations, and magnetic fields, requires cutting- edge research. The reduced size of this watch is part of this adaptation process. The caliber DB2005 has been adjusted to this miniaturization without compromising chronometric quality. Moreover, the increased lightness of the watch enhances its efficiency in case of shocks and accelerations.

Aesthetically, the choice of blue color was not merely for visual attributes; its presence within De Bethune mechanisms holds genuine technical legitimacy. Initially seeking to solve technical problems of stability and chronometry during the development of new De Bethune balances, Denis Flageollet created a novel oscillator combining the soft metallic white hue of palladium with the vibrant blue of titanium. Consequently, the natural blue color became one of the brand’s signatures, with its reflections on different materials and finishes allowing for an infinite and refined play of shades.

Today, an intriguing evolution unfolds as De Bethune explores the chromatic spectrum and boldly unveils a new enchanting facet: purple. Continuing the work of the great master watchmakers of the 18th century in their quest for perfect time measurement, coupled with a sense of absolute aesthetics, De Bethune utilizes the most modern scientific and technological discoveries. The efforts of De Bethune teams converge to invent unique, innovative, and high-performance solutions. The principle remains the same for over 20 years: to create timepieces that respect horological tradition while integrating mechanical, technical, and aesthetic innovations of our time.

A unique splendor and magnetic presence

Through this mastery of purple and the natural oxidation of titanium, De Bethune does not simply create watches, but timeless works of art. Each piece reflects the perfect marriage between horological tradition and contemporary innovation, captivating watch enthusiasts. De Bethune, a true color alchemist, invites us to delve into a world of beauty and sophistication, where purple and blueing become symbols of refinement and horological excellence.

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Encapsulating the memory and culture of De Bethune in an exceptional timepiece that illustrates the technical and artistic expertise and excellence cultivated in its L’Auberson workshops was the challenge taken up by Denis Flageollet and his high-flying team.

The DB Kind of Grande Complication is the culmination of a young watchmaker’s dream, as he gazed in wonder at double-sided grand complication models and already anticipated creating such a timepiece. After many years of design and development at De Bethune, Denis Flageollet has at last brought it to life by drawing on all the resources and philosophy of the Manufacture, which perpetuates the innovative spirit of the great classical watchmaking achievements characterising the Age of Enlightenment.

DB Kind of Grande Complication, a compendium of De Bethune techniques and innovation

The choice of a reversible double-sided case was entirely natural, since it not only unites a large number of complications, but also allows provides scope for free-spirited aesthetic expression through the dual display of the various functions.

The case is also interesting in that it incorporates a rotation system (a novel feature introduced in 2021) mounted on floating lugs which – by means of an ingenious micro-mechanism – enable the case to pivot around its central axis in a smooth, accurate swivelling movement. More than 60 components – 50 of which relate to the water-resistant part and are therefore perfectly rustproof – are involved in positioning the dial on either side. A cam-operated indexing system ensures perfect alignment of the case with the floating lugs that follow the curves of the wrist.

The rounded design of its classically inspired case with its crown at 12 o’clock on the contemporary side (6 o’clock on the traditional side) conceals the technical challenges of a double case complexified by a multiple display of several functions and the combination within a single calibre of eight different horological complications: perpetual calendar, spherical moon-phase indication, retrograde age of the Moon and leap years, ultra-light tourbillon in blued titanium, jumping seconds, power reserve as well as the double display of hours and minutes.

Integrating each of the 751 components involved in its exterior and movement required much more thought than assembling the various complications separately. Rethinking the calibre as a functional whole so that each complication interacts in perfect harmony is a technical feat that would be inconceivable without total technical mastery of all the innovations and patents involved in the Manufacture’s 32 calibres.

DB Kind of Grande Complication, reaffirming a powerful contemporary aesthetic

A contemporary side displays the refined structure of Calibre DB2529, the end of the power reserve and the age of the Moon by means of a retrograde silver-toned indicator that facilitates accurate updating of the lunar day. It highlights the contrast between the hectic 36,000 vph pace of the De Bethune 30″ tourbillon – one of the fastest and lightest on the market – and the ample, subdued beat of the slender mirror-polished steel hand marking off the seconds. This contrast is orchestrated at 6 o’clock by 63 components – essentially made of titanium and weighing a total of just 0.18 g (the lightest of them weighs less than 0.0001 grams and the heaviest 0.0276 g) – and by a central jumping seconds mechanism composed of two gold wheels driven by a double pallet-lever with four pallets, setting a noble cadence for the passing of time.

An aesthetic symbol of the brand, the mirror-polished deltoid bridge supports the asymmetry of the gear trains featuring subtle decorations pushed to extremes on even the slimmest components. Each one, through its function and finishing, contributes to the calibre’s understated aesthetic and technical silence.

Another classically restrained side features a dial with a perpetual calendar enhanced by a three- dimensional moon-phase display as well as by the Manufacture’s signature starry sky.

Light is resolutely at the heart of the Maison’s creative process and reflected here in the blued mirror- polished titanium of the dial, revealing through multiple shimmering effects the different tones endowing the De Bethune Blue with its unique character. The hand-decorated sky is hand-fitted with small white gold pins depicting the stars and adorned with Milky Way patterns produced by laser- beam micro-milling and gilded with 24-carat gold leaf.

Much like our observation of the sky, the moon phases can be read off at 3 o’clock by means of a homogeneous sphere spinning on its axis and composed of two perfectly balanced half-spheres in flame-blued steel and mirror-polished palladium. The reproduction of the different movements of this heavenly body is supported by a high-precision mechanism that takes a full 112 years to accumulate a one-day deviation.

Faced with the volume required by such a sphere within the limited space of the watch, the technical solution introduced in 2004 was to gently bend the hands downwards to ensure they could glide smoothly over the Moon, a curved shape that would become one of the brand’s typical distinctive features.

Like the leap-year indicator aligned at 3 o’clock, the subtle play of superimposed blues in the counter rings and apertures, along with the gilded juxtaposition of the day, month and date displays, blend seamlessly into the sky and the Milky Way without ever losing their legibility.

The extremely fine opaline silvering of the hours and minutes ring, the soft lines borrowed from the hunter-type case, the graphic design of the numerals, the style of the hands and the starry sky are all cultural references to 18th century fine watchmaking, the age of the great regulators and marine chronometers.

Producing such a Grand Complication model is fraught with perilous technical challenges, as each stage is crucial to the great ordeal of final assembly. Above and beyond technical knowledge and solid experience in the realm of Haute Horlogerie, this exercise requires values surpassing those of an ordinary workbench. According to Denis Flageollet, Master Watchmaker and founder of De Bethune, “My watchmakers are like top-level athletes. To ensure that they don’t fail in the final stretch and run the risk of compromising the integrity of the timepiece, they demonstrate extraordinary, imperturbable mental strength, along with extreme concentration and almost motionless posture.”

In the manner of a master sculpture or classical music concerto, the DB Kind of Grande Complication is a true composition. It captures the essence of the Maison and conveys through its very presence a universal emotion and energy that stems from the multiple attributes it harbours: the innovative purpose of the “Horlofaber”, a legacy of traditional expertise, along with in-depth watchmaking and artistic culture expressed through a powerful contemporary aesthetic. It is the ultimate embodiment of the De Bethune spirit.

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On the occasion of the Geneva Watch Days, De Bethune presents the iconic DB28 Steel Wheels now for the first time equipped with a tourbillon. The movement’s delta bridge and two barrel covers are made of sapphire crystal. Faithful to the DNA of the ‘Maison’ nestled in Sainte Croix in the Swiss Jura mountains, the DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon ably perpetuates the heritage of its predecessors: perfect balance, contemporary and bold aesthetics at the service of exceptional mechanics. A limited edition of only 10 pieces.

When the first DB28 was launched in 2010, De Bethune’s idea was to present a timepiece with an identity of its own and a resolutely futuristic vision of the art of watchmaking. The design naturally follows through in the spirit of the Manufacture’s creations. The distinctive shape of the case and the crown at 12 o’clock, inspired by pocket watches, are characteristic features of the contemporary aestheticism specific to De Bethune. It is on this timepiece that the patent for De Bethune’s unique, innovative floating lugs, designed to significantly improve comfort, acquired its full meaning. Since then, the DB28 – named Best Watch of the Year and awarded the Aiguille d’Or prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2011 – has never ceased to express past, present and future watchmaking culture through different variants. Following through on a series of contemporary iterations, from Skybridge to the Kind-of-Blue, by way of the more recent DB28XP, DB28XP Starry Sky and DB28XP Tourbillon, De Bethune has time and again found a new way to reveal new facets of this design, already instantly recognizable by its sleek and taut lines.

The DB28 Steel Wheels came to be in 2018, under the sign of transparency and light, with the idea of opening the dial to reveal the contemporary architecture of its movement. Recognizable by its deltashaped bridge – a De Bethune hallmark – and its moon at 6 o’clock, the DB28 Steel Wheels fascinates with a multitude of different forms – hemispherical, concave, spherical – for an architecturally dynamic result. It is all about levels of perception, layers and reliefs, light playing with shadows and reflections. Cut from titanium, light on the wrist, this watch reveals a contemporary, architectural fusion of space, time and light.

August 2020: Creation of the DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon We must go back to the wellspring of inspiration that nourishes the creativity of Denis Flageollet, Founder and Master Watchmaker of De Bethune: the passion to celebrate the Great Watchmaking of the Age of Enlightenment, and subtly reinterpret it in contemporary masterpieces infused with ancestral knowledge and at the same time the latest technical and scientific advances. Most often used in the production of watch cases, sapphire crystal takes on a new role for De Bethune. Here, it finds a new vocation in the form of the signature delta-shaped bridge and the cover for each of the two barrels. Blue for the bridge, clear for the barrel covers, these elements are integrated into the movement, letting light in to play and offer new reflections – and allow the eyes to literally plunge into the mechanism. The transparency of these sapphire crystal components not only magnifies the movement, but also offers a different kind of lighting, new brilliance and shimmering, that highlights the taut lines, the architecture and the different levels of the caliber for an intriguing sense of depth

Each sapphire crystal component is encircled in polished titanium. A contemporary reinterpretation of stained glass Always in the spirit of taking things further, as far as possible, Denis Flageollet designed the sapphire glass components, cutting them by laser with utmost precision so they fit in perfectly with the forms, rises, angles, the teeth – the bridge as well as the barrel covers – all perfectly adjusted like lace of sapphire crystal. To this is added a ring of polished titanium to circle each barrel cover. The sight of the delta bridge and two barrel covers in sapphire crystal is something never seen before, along with the cut of the glass, underscored on its periphery by the polished metallic grey line, accentuating a resolutely contemporary aesthetic. The thicknesses of the sapphire crystal vary according to the components. The sapphire of the bridge is 1 mm thick to ensure functional rigidity, whilst the sapphire of the barrel covers is 0.3 mm thick. These glass components in no way compromise robustness or, of course, reliability when worn – solid, perfect resistant to small everyday shocks is assured.

Handcrafted hands by De Bethune De Bethune has always crafted its watch hands in-house, by hand, in the workshop in l’Auberson. The DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon thus comes with a particularly finely worked hour hand. It consists of 4 distinct elements: the barrel made of steel for technical reasons, a titanium insert, an inner component of matt titanium, and a polished titanium outer component. Each component is worked differently. The result is unique. At the back, an understated movement. The power reserve indication can be read with a hand-blued steel hand, also made, as is the custom, by hand in De Bethune’s workshop.

The tourbillon according to De Bethune: Why so small, so light, so fast? In the vast array of complications and functions, of horological disciplines in which De Bethune has become a virtuoso, the tourbillon often played a leading role. The DB28 Steel Wheels took a step further towards sophistication and supreme refinement with its moon, and today this gives way to a tourbillon featuring an extraordinarily lightweight cage (0.18 grams, the lightest ever created). Rotating on itself every thirty seconds, it comprises a total of 63 components (the lightest of which weighs less than 0.0001 grams!). Nowadays, a wristwatch is subjected to more action than may be safely and sufficiently compensated for. Changes in position are often abrupt and sometimes chaotic.

Indeed, the kinetic forces inflicted on a mechanical watchmaking movement under normal wear conditions might seem quite staggering. Just as Breguet had invented the tourbillon to meet the constraints of marine watches, De Bethune designed a tourbillon for the new dynamics of wristwatches. The laws of physics are unequivocal:

To compensate for the sheer force of wrist movements, the tourbillon cage must be as light as possible and operate at maximum frequency and speed of rotation, all with weight and inertia at absolute minimums. Only then can it fulfil its function in a watch made for today.

The tourbillon is a titanium and silicon creation that beats at a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour. It features an extraordinarily lightweight cage (0.18 g, the lightest ever) that rotates on itself every thirty seconds and comprises 63 components (the lightest of which weighs less than 0.0001 g).

Like a flying insect, a microscale exoskeleton keeps it all together. It is thus, so small, so light, so fast, that De Bethune’s tourbillon simply fulfils its function more ably for today’s watches. The futuristic shape of the tourbillon bridge holds the tourbillon perfectly in position, symmetrically, from both sides.

Highly refined finishes, the quintessence of fine craftsmanship The Métiers d’Art – artisan crafts – as understood and lived by De Bethune are a vibrant tribute to what is uniquely human.

Among the various hand-made decorations specific to De Bethune’s movements, the mirror-polishing of the titanium pieces offers an astonishing play with light. The surfaces of the components are finished to perfectly reflect ambient light.

The metal surface is patiently polished until it becomes a true mirror. It can take many days of polishing individual components to achieve this result. Ever so gradually the moment approaches when matter settles and atoms fall into place. That moment, that ‘knowing’ that one is just about to go too far with the boxwood grindstone and diamond paste.

That split-second between a deep, flawless mirror finish and something less than perfect. All this is the result of the interaction between the mind, the eye and the hand. Beyond know-how, it’s a question of artisanship. It takes a burning desire, an unencumbered impetus to push the boundaries of excellence in all areas in this manner.

And unparalleled comfort thanks to its floating lugs, kept to an intermediate size on this watch.

The DB28 Steel Wheelss Sapphire Tourbillon features a polished grade 5 titanium case, mounted on the new floating lugs unveiled this year. Entirely redesigned, harmonized and adapted to the spirit of the watch, they are tipped by the famous ‘bullets,’ more prominent here, reminiscent of the spirit of the first De Bethune collections.

The finishing touch: an alligator strap with a titanium buckle, which also contributes to the practicality and everyday wearability of this very special timepiece

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