In the spirit of independent watchmaking, DANIEL ROTH introduces a new expression of its Extra Plat collection that further elevates the exclusivity of the piece, while remaining understated in appearance. Crafted in platinum, a metal long associated with rarity and traditional savoir-faire, this latest addition brings a quiet yet unmistakable presence to the wrist that can be appreciated by connoisseurs. Beyond its brilliant surface, the watch is defined by the architecture and finishing of its Calibre DR002, where technical discipline and aesthetic restraint converge in perfect balance.

ARCHITECTURE IN MOTION

Maintaining Mr. Roth’s watchmaking philosophy, the Calibre DR002 is designed with an emphasis on proportional clarity
and equilibrium, where each component is meticulously positioned with intent. Extra Plat watches embody a unique philosophy in their own right, given the constraints of their thinness. Master Watchmakers Enrico Barbasini and Michel Navas asked themselves, “How far and no further” when designing the DR002. The finishes, requiring more than 70 individual operations, are executed by hand and are refined to a point of excellence.

In developing the movement, Barbasini and Navas aimed to strike a balance between chronometric precision and power reserve. To do so, the
frequency was increased by adopting a 4 Hz balance wheel. This required a different approach to ensure the higher frequency could be sustained without compromising energy efficiency or the calibre’s overall stability. The balance wheel itself was refined with a variable-inertia geometry with counterweights, all while preserving the movement’s slim structure.

ELEGANCE IN THE DETAILS

Meticulous bevelling is visible through the open caseback. Among the most demanding details are the internal angles, rendered in a rounded bercé form, an intricate execution that requires at least twice the time of a conventional bevel, underscoring the depth of hand-finishing involved.

This traditional watchmaking decoration is used to polish a radius or edge, rather than a flat, angled bevel, and is found throughout the edges of bridges to create a rounded, brilliant profile. The angled surfaces are meticulously shaped and refined by hand in-house using a cabron tool, a technique that delivers a level of precision and uniformity unachievable through automated processes.

TIME FORMED IN PLATINUM

The double-ellipse-shaped platinum case gives a sense of subtlety and exclusivity.

Platinum is significantly denser than gold, making it more difficult to work with, placing increased strain on tools and requiring precise, low-speed artistry, often taking up to three times  as long to craft.
The base of the dial is in solid gold, accompanied by a gold minute disc finished with a filet sauté border and black typography indicating the time and the DANIEL ROTH name. Pinstripe guilloché adorns the dial and is executed entirely by hand using a rose engine, with each line individually carved. This process requires precise control over both depth and spacing to ensure uniformity across the surface.
Downward-shaped lugs enhance wrist comfort, complement the case shape, and serve as a base for the light-tan leather strap, creating a refined contrast.

The Extra Plat Platinum stands as a disciplined expression of DANIEL ROTH watchmaking codes, where refinement is achieved in accordance with the Brand’s guiding principle: “La Montre Objet d’Art.”
By uniting traditional hand-finishing with a rigorously engineered calibre, this watch reinforces a steadfast commitment to enduring savoir-faire and technical integrity, defined by exacting detail and quiet distinction.

The post DANIEL ROTH EXTRA PLAT PLATINUM appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

Conceived in the spirit of La Montre Objet d’Art, the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton preserves the classi-cal proportions and architecture of the original, while revealing the inner brilliance of the new manually wound calibre DR002SR, designed exclusively for the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton.

While firmly grounded in the brand’s histor-ical vocabulary, the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton is the first step in the revival of
DANIEL ROTH, moving beyond faithful reinterpreta-tion, as the Extra Plat was never skeletonised during the brand’s founding era by Mr. Roth.

“The Extra Plat has always embodied the quiet refine-ment at the heart of DANIEL ROTH,” says Matthieu Hegi, Artistic Director of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. “Opening the movement allows its elegance to speak in a new way, while remaining faithful to Mr. Roth’s earliest ambitions and attachment to tradi-tional high watchmaking.”

THE EXTRA PLAT: A SIGNATURE REVISITED

Simple yet perfectly executed watchmaking has long been central to the identity of DANIEL ROTH. During his early years as an independ-
ent watchmaker, Mr. Roth considered the Extra Plat a complication in its own right; it was, in fact, his fa-vourite complication after the tourbillon for its appar-ent simplicity and the technical discipline required to execute it properly. The balanced restraint of a thin movement, confined within the precise geometry of the double-ellipse, formed a foundational pillar of the brand’s reputation.

In the early 1990s, shortly after establishing his name-sake brand, Mr. Roth began producing skeletonised versions of select references. Made in extremely small quantities due to the painstaking craftsman-ship involved, these early openworked pieces served as both technical exercises and demonstrations of the brand’s expertise: slim architecture, open vol-umes, and hand-finished details.

The new Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton contin-ues this tradition in a contemporary idiom. Pro-duced in limited numbers each year, it reflects
the original spirit of the Extra Plat while expanding its expressive range through transparency. The re-finement of the double-ellipse case remains, while the movement, now visible in its entirety, reveals the structural logic that has always been central to the DANIEL ROTH aesthetic.

“As a complication, the Extra Plat represents the essence of DANIEL ROTH,” continues Matthieu
Hegi. “It emphasises proportion, clarity, and a certain discreet sophistication. By skeletonising the calibre, we allow the architecture to be understood on its own terms. It is a respectful evolution of what Mr. Roth first imagined more than thirty years ago.”

A HEART OF GOLD

At the centre of the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skel-eton is the calibre DR002SR, a new shaped movement manufactured entirely in-house
at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Based on the DR002, the DR002SR reinterprets the original archi-tecture with newly shaped bridges and plates designed to accommodate an openworked construction. Bridg-es and plates have been redesigned with the beauty of the skeleton in mind, ensuring that the calibre could be rendered with lightness and transparency, without compromising rigidity or chronometric performance.

The DR002SR is constructed in solid 18k 5N rose gold to match the case, a choice that reflects both tradition and intention. Gold provides a nat-
urally warm contrast to the black-polished steel com-ponents and offers an ideal substrate for the extensive hand finishing that defines the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton.

“With the DR002SR, we revisited the original calibre and reworked its architecture specifically for skele-tonisation,” explains Michel Navas. “We reshaped the bridges and plates to open the movement as much as possible, while ensuring that rigidity, reliability, and chronometry were never compromised.”

“The decision to craft the bridges and plates in sol-id gold was both technical and aesthetic,” adds Enrico Barbasini. “Gold is a noble metal that re-
sponds beautifully to traditional finishing. It allows the handwork to speak clearly, which is essential in a skeletonised movement.”

Despite its transparency, the DR002SR retains the technical specifications of the DR002: a free-sprung balance, a 4 Hz frequency, and an ample power re-serve of 65 hours, all within the elegant contours of the double-ellipse shape.

TRANSPARENCY IN MOTION

Skeletonisation is an exercise in reduction. The Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton brings this prin-ciple to its highest expression, with a move-
ment that bears the full imprint of the artisan’s hand. Nowhere is the human touch more apparent than in the numerous internal angles; impossible to achieve by machine, each crisp transition is shaped and pol-ished by hand.

Each of these sharply defined internal angles reveals the steady hand and patient rhythm of the craftsmen and women at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, who complete every stage of finissage, from bevel-ling to black polishing, entirely in-house.

“The work required to finish a skeletonised cali-bre of this nature demands complete mastery of traditional techniques,” note Barbasini and Na-
vas. “At La Fabrique du Temps, we can perform all of these operations under one roof, ensuring that every component reflects the standards of DANIEL ROTH. This internal capability is essential to the integrity of the final watch.”

Reduced to its essential form, the DR002SR becomes a mechanical gallery of traditional craftsmanship. Balancing form and function, its openworked archi-tecture demonstrates the technical mastery and aesthetic sophistication that have become synony-mous with DANIEL ROTH.

The post EXTRA PLAT ROSE GOLD SKELETON appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

Directly inspired by the iconic Tourbillon reference 2187/C187 of 1988, the Tourbillon Platinum is a tribute to Daniel Roth’s favorite complication and dedication to the timeless ideals of haute horlogerie.

The revival of DANIEL ROTH began in 2023, starting with Mr. Roth’s favored complications, the Tourbillon and the Extra Plat. Both models debuted with a 20-piece souscription series in yellow gold dressed in Clou de Paris guilloché, followed by regular production models in rose gold with pinstripe guilloché.

Both the Tourbillon and the Extra Plat share the same design codes and horological principles, with the slightly refined double-ellipse case design and in-house manufacture calibres. The DR001 found in the Tourbillon and the DR002 that powers the Extra Plat are shape movements finished to the highest standards, developed exclusively for DANIEL ROTH by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, Master Watchmakers and the founders of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.

Continuing the heritage established by the pair in gold, the Tourbillon Platinum elevates the collection with a more contemporary aesthetic that opens a new chapter for DANIEL ROTH.

Elevating an icon

Throughout history, watchmakers have often used platinum to dignify their most exceptional creations. Used selectively during the first golden age of the brand, platinum has, until now, been absent from the latest chapter in the history of DANIEL ROTH. The Tourbillon Platinum heralds the return of this noble metal, beloved by collectors for its extraordinary heft and rarity.

Beyond its exceptional rarity, platinum is harder to work with than gold. Specifically, the process for machining platinum components requires special tooling and more frequent intervention by the machinist. As a result, a platinum case can take up to three times as long to make as a case in 18k gold.

“Platinum is a heavyweight material in every sense. For decades, platinum has instilled both love and fear in the hearts of watchmakers,” explains Matthieu Hegi, Artistic Director of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. “It is often reserved for special creations, in part because it is so much more difficult to work with than gold.”

“Naturally, the esteemed reputation of platinum makes it irresistible to a brand like DANIEL ROTH,” continues Matthieu Hegi. “When it came time to animate the Tourbillon in a white metal, one thing was certain; it had to be platinum.”

True to the design and spirit of the C187, the Tourbillon Platinum adopts the double-ellipse shape, a foundational element of the DANIEL ROTH aesthetic. Originally conceived by Mr. Roth himself in 1988, the unusual shape, combining both square and circular elements, is the ideal showcase for the large tourbillon. Innovative at launch, the double-ellipse has stood the test of time and is one of just a handful of contemporary case designs that have achieved iconic status.

All of the critical details of the original double-ellipse case have been faithfully recreated, and this historical fidelity is more than skin deep. In a nod to the 1988 original, the longest of the seconds hand’s three arms passes through a discrete channel on the inside of the case; a private detail that provides continuity from past to present.

But the Tourbillon Platinum’s double-ellipse case is more than just a carbon copy of the original. For the revival of DANIEL ROTH, the signature case enjoys subtle refinements, while being largely indistinguishable from the original. The lugs, still meticulously hand-soldered to the case middle, now arch downward to improve ergonomics on the wrist.

A living tribute to the pioneering spirit that guides DANIEL ROTH, the case profile of the Tourbillon Platinum is slightly slimmer than that of the original C187, thanks to the in-house manufacture calibre DR001.

An emblematic palette

The dial of the Tourbillon Platinum is similarly precious, made of solid white gold and finished in an anthracite hue. This material provides the ultimate canvas for DANIEL ROTH’s linear guilloche, painstakingly applied by hand using a straight-line engine.

Eminently traditional in every respect, the chapter ring for the hours and minutes is crafted from 925 sterling silver, as are the tri-sectioned seconds scale and the iconic ‘moustache’ on either side that bear the DANIEL ROTH brand name and individual watch number.

Each one of these elements is crafted separately, their borders fluted with filet sauté guillochage using a traditional hand-operated rose engine. The serpentine form of the ‘moustache’ proved particularly challenging for the guillocheurs, and required the development of a bespoke tool fitted to the rose engine.

All components of the dial have been produced entirely in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, which now has a fully-equipped guillochage workshop with antique engine-turning machines that have been entirely restored to perfect functionality.

These time-honored techniques put a natural limit on production. A single dial for the Tourbillon Platinum can take up to three days to complete, line by line by a single Maître Guillocheur, with the smallest mistake at any point along the way requiring the dial to be discarded.

The tourbillon calibre DR001: the beating heart of DANIEL ROTH

The modern-day renaissance of DANIEL ROTH began in 2023 with the introduction of the DR001, a new shape movement developed specifically for the brand’s signature double-ellipse case.

The tourbillon carries special significance for DANIEL ROTH. It was none other than Mr. Roth himself, during his time at Breguet, who created the brand’s first-ever tourbillon wristwatch. Mr. Roth returned to the tourbillon for the launch of his own brand, being among the first independent watchmakers to accomplish such a feat.

In keeping with the philosophy of DANIEL ROTH, each of the DR001’s 206 components are finished by hand; even the parts hidden beneath the dial are decorated as if on display. Though these components remain unseen outside the manufacture, the expert craftsmanship reveals itself to the connoisseur’s discerning touch during winding and setting.

“As long-time friends of Daniel, we knew his expectations for the DR001 would be high. Both Enrico and myself share his philosophy and passion for tradition and elegance, and were able to leverage the unique savoir-faire of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton to create a tourbillon worthy of the brand’s second act,” says Michel Navas.

“Daniel was an inspirational figure for Michel and myself, so it was important to both of us to respect the brand’s original emphasis on both architecture and finissage,” adds Enrico Barbasini. “Daniel was a true pioneer of independent watchmaking, so it wouldn’t be enough for us to simply recreate the past. Our vision for DANIEL ROTH is to remain true to the brand’s history while elevating the subtle details.”

Unlike the Tourbillon Souscription, which featured a solid case back, the DR001 movement inside the Tourbillon Platinum can be admired through a sapphire crystal. This window into the heart of the Tourbillon Platinum reveals all the hallmarks of traditional haute horlogerie, including black-polished steel, rounded anglage, perlage, and particularly thin Côtes de Genève that echoes the guillochage en ligne dial.

The DR001 is further elevated by the presence of three polished gold chatons that secure the jewels in the gear train. Aficionados of fine watchmaking will appreciate that while some of these magnificent details are put on display, others remain hidden, waiting to be discovered by future generations of watchmakers.

The technical characteristics of the DR001 demonstrate the manufacture’s savoir-faire, and represent an improvement over the original in several respects. The power reserve has been increased to 80 hours, while at the same time the movement’s thickness has been reduced to provide a more elegant fit on the wrist.

The Tourbillon Platinum completes the DANIEL ROTH tourbillon collection with a very exclusive edition that introduces a contrasting anthracite grey dial. The commanding presence of the platinum case is yet another bridge to the brand’s early history, while the refined double-ellipse case represents a vision for the future.

The post DANIEL ROTH Tourbillon Platinum appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

The epitome of functional elegance, the concept of an ultra-thin dress watch was long a personal favourite of Mr. Daniel Roth. Having already formed the outline of the design in his mind in the 1980s, Mr. Roth presented the original Extra Plat in 1990, one year after founding his brand with the Tourbillon C187.

Today DANIEL ROTH pays homage to its roots and founder with the Extra Plat Souscription. Echoing the template established by the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription is faithful to the original model of the 1990s in style and craft, but entirely new in terms of mechanics, with the DR002 movement within having been developed especially for the watch.

“Having known Daniel for many years, we wanted to stay true to his philosophy and vision of watchmaking,” say Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, the founders of La Fabrique du Temps, “The Extra Plat Souscription is a simple watch with just two hands, but executed to the highest aesthetic and technical standards, just as Daniel would have done, but done in-house at the manufacture.”

A tribute to the original
Continuing the distinctive style of the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription is presented in an 18k yellow gold case matched with an 18k yellow gold dial decorated with hand-made clou de Paris guilloche.

Staying true to the tasteful form of the original models of the 1990s, the Extra Plat Souscription has the same measurements as the Tourbillon Souscription – the case measures 35.5 mm wide and 38.6 mm lengthwise. But the case is thinner than the Tourbillon Souscription, standing a svelte 7.70mm high, as a result of the ultra-thin DR002 movement inside and its mere 3.1mm thickness.

The case design stays true to the original, but has been gently reworked in keeping with the visual codes of DANIEL ROTH. The 18k yellow gold case retains the iconic double ellipse form, but with a perfectly centred godron along its outline for a balanced profile. At the same time, the lugs have been gently rounded for visual coherence and arched downwards for superior ergonomics.

Not only is the case designed in the same style as the original, it is also put together with the traditional methods. Each of the lugs is produced as a separate component, which is then carefully soldered to the case middle, by hand and one at a time.

Equally traditional is the guilloche dial that is made with time-honoured artisanal methods. Each dial comprises two parts, the base and an applied chapter ring, both of which are solid 18k yellow gold and engine turned by hand on antique restored machines in La Fabrique du Temps’s own guilloche workshop.

The clou de Paris pattern on the dial base is engine turned on a hand-operated straight-line engine dating to circa 1935, while the filet sauté border on both the base and chapter ring is applied with a machine from around 1850.

Notably, both dial components are turned by a single artisan in-house at La Fabrique du Temps in a painstaking process that requires 10 hours of work per dial just for the guillochage.

Each dial also boasts a detail only a keen-eyed observer will notice: the print on the dial, from the Roman numerals to the serial number, is in a deep, rich blue that echoes the colour of the heat-blued hour and minute hands.

An all-new calibre
The second movement conceived by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton for DANIEL ROTH, the DR002 seeks to honour both Mr. Daniel Roth himself as well as Swiss Haute Horlogerie. The DR002 echoes the distinctive visual style of the DR001 in the Tourbillon Souscription, but it was developed from the ground up for the Extra Plat Souscription.

The DR002 is a form movement that takes the same double ellipse shape as the case. Despite its unconventional form, the calibre boasts all the hallmarks of traditional high-end watchmaking, both in terms of construction and decoration. Inspired by classical movements, the flowing outline of the bridges is finished with rounded, polished bevels known as anglage, which also incorporate sharp corners that are possible only with skilled artisanal finishing.

“We understand Daniel’s devotion to traditional high-end watchmaking, both as friends and watchmakers, so we wanted to respect his approach when we constructed the DR002”, explain Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, “As a result, we made sure it has the hallmarks of traditional Haute Horlogerie, like the steel winding bar click for the barrel.”

Attention was paid not only to the aesthetics of the calibre, but also the tactile feel. The winding click, for instance, is a single piece that’s entirely satinated.

Not only does it endow the DR002 with visual beauty, the winding click is responsible for the precise, rewarding feel when winding the movement.

Despite the classicism of the movement, the technical underpinnings of the DR002 are sophisticated. The 4 Hz balance wheel, for example, is free-sprung and made up of four arms, each with a variable inertia weight for regulation – which promises superior and stable timekeeping over prolonged periods. And the single large mainspring delivers a 65-hour power reserve – a convenient three days, or a weekend’s running time.

The undeniable beauty of the DR002 is concealed beneath a solid 18k yellow gold case back, as the calibre was in the Tourbillon Souscription. This act of discretion is once again a tribute to the past: the original Extra Plat watches were similarly equipped with solid backs.

The Extra Plat Souscription is a limited edition of 20 pieces with delivery starting in January 2025. It will be followed by an Extra Plat model that will join the DANIEL ROTH catalogue.

The post THE REVIVAL OF DANIEL ROTH CONTINUES APACE WITH THE EXTRA PLAT SOUSCRIPTION. appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.