The new Pelagos FXD GMT is Master Chronometer-certified by METAS to ensure maximum precision and reliability in the adverse real-world conditions endured by personnel of the Aéronautique Navale.

Since the 1950s, TUDOR has been officially supplying the Marine Nationale (French Navy) with reliable diving watches used to carry out the daring duties of naval troops for decades. The first Pelagos FXD model – “FXD” referring to the extra robust FiXeD strap bars of the watch case – was introduced in 2021, continuing the legacy of TUDOR and the French Navy. After years of use in the field, the Pelagos FXD platform has a proven track record of service.

In 2024, the FXD family is expanding to the meet the needs of the Aéronautique Navale (French Naval Aviation), the force responsible for naval aviation operations. The Pelagos FXD GMT can keep track of time in up to three time zones at once, one being Zulu time, the military name for Universal Time Coordinated (UTC) and the standard reference time for all aviators—a valuable tool when undertaking crucial missions. Zulu time corresponds to zero-meridian time or the time at zero degrees of longitude, commonly known as Greenwich Mean Time (GMT).

It’s standardized use in global aviation prevents confusion in communications between nations and time zones. The word “Zulu” is the standardized phonetic alphabet code word used in aviation for “Z” or the first letter of the word “zero”.

Zulu time is tracked by the highly legible bright orange hand that completes a full lap around the dial every 24 hours. Once set, this hand typically is not reset, allowing sailors of the French Naval Aviation to check the global aviation reference time at a glance. The angular hour hand, commonly nicknamed “Snowflake,” indicates local time. It is set through the winding crown and “jumps” in increments of one hour for easy setting when changing time zones. The date changes when the hour hand passes midnight, in either direction—backwards or forwards. A third time zone can be checked using the 24-hour luminous bi-directional bezel and the orange Zulu time hand.

“The Pelagos FXD GMT can keep track of time in up to three time zones at once, one being Zulu time, the military name for Universal Time Coordinated (UTC) and the standard reference time for all aviators—a valuable tool when undertaking crucial missions.”

TUDOR AND THE FRENCH NAVY

TUDOR chose to join forces publicly with the French Navy in 2021, thus continuing a relationship that dates back to 1956. Back then, the Groupe d’Étude et de Recherches Sous-Marines (G.E.R.S.), a scientific body attached to the French Navy and based in Toulon, took delivery of some Oyster Prince Submariner watches in order to assess them in real-life situations. They were references 7922 and 7923, both waterproof to 100 metres (330 ft) and fitted with self-winding and manual movements, respectively. The waterproofness of these watches was judged to be “perfect” and their performance “entirely correct” by the G.E.R.S. commanding officer at the time. Persuaded by the potential of the instruments offered by the Genevan brand, he quickly placed more orders, enabling TUDOR to attain the status of “official supplier to the French Navy” in 1961.

TUDOR divers’ watches continued to be developed and the French Navy would use many of the brand’s timepieces over the following decades. Today, the most famous TUDOR divers’ watch used by the French Navy is the reference 9401, with its iconic blue dial and bezel. Engraved on the case back with the initials “M.N.” followed by the year of issue, the watches were delivered in two configurations: first with “Snowflake” hands and hour markers and later, with triangular hour markers. This model was launched in the mid-’70s and was supplied to the French Navy until the 1980s. It continued to be used into the 21st century, particularly at the French Navy’s diving school, as well as by combat swimmers.

In 2021, reviving this historic collaboration, TUDOR released a new technical watch for underwater navigation developed in conjunction with the French Navy’s combat swimmers. Based on a set of specifications that are as precise as they are demanding, the Pelagos FXD model introduced many functional features that were new to TUDOR, including its distinctive fixed strap bars machined into the main body of the 42mm titanium case for increased robustness and reliability. Shaped as an extension of the lugs, they are key to the model’s characteristic silhouette. With the Pelagos FXD GMT, TUDOR and the French navy write a new chapter in their extensive shared history, deploying the FXD platform as a robust solution to naval aviation time-tracking needs.

“With the Pelagos FXD GMT, TUDOR and the French navy write a new chapter in their extensive shared history, deploying the FXD platform as a robust solution to naval aviation time-tracking needs.”

FORM FOLLOWS FUNCTION

The cockpit of a Rafale Marine jet, the bay of an Atlantique 2 long-range patrol plane or the air-traffic tower aboard a helicopter carrier all have one thing in common, besides being part of the French Naval Aviation force. They all operate in Zulu time. To easily keep track of Zulu time, TUDOR has developed the Pelagos FXD GMT. Based on its tried and tested FXD platform, this watch is all about functionality, featuring a robust yet lightweight grade 2 titanium case with fixed strap bars that is waterproof to 200m and fully brushed for a matt effect. The 42 millimeter case, housing a high-performance mechanical movement, features a high contrast dial and colour-coded hands, the 24-hour Zulu time arrow-head hand made distinctive thanks to the use of a bright orange lacquer.

These attributes combine to allow for enhanced legibility in dark environments or at night when the potent luminous material of its hands, hour-markers and bezel allow for instant gathering of time-tracking information. Furthermore, the hour-markers as well as the hour, minute and seconds hands share a blue luminescence contrasting with the green luminous emission of the 24-hour hand and graduation on the 24-hour bezel. A detail that allows for an instinctive read of Zulu time, any time. If you add the time and date-setting practicality of the MT5652-U Manufacture Calibre to the above, with winding crown-operated, jumping-hour coupled date, you have a time-tracking tool fit for any sky-bound mission.

And to highlight the Pelagos FXD GMT’s official commission with the French Navy and its aviation arm, its grade 5 titanium case back bears the logo of the Aéronautique navale (French Naval Aviation) composed of a winged anchor topped with a star, as well as a historically inspired engraving of “M.N.24” for “Marine nationale 2024” indicating the year of production of each batch of the watch.

A BRACELET WOVEN IN THE FRENCH NAVY’S HERITAGE

Historically, the French Navy had TUDOR watches delivered without bracelets and then fitted them with their own straps, handmade or otherwise. Two strap types appear to have been particularly used over the years: black straps made from a single piece of braided nylon, and, less commonly, handmade straps made from parachute elastic, which could be recognised by their green colour and yellow or red central thread. It is to these ultra-functional relics, inextricably linked to the French Navy, that the fabric strap of the Pelagos FXD GMT pays tribute. In the case of the Pelagos FXD GMT, the colour of the strap matches the specific colour of the flight suit worn by aviators
of the French Naval Aviation.

The single-piece fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of TUDOR, which in 2010 became one of the first watchmaking brands to offer it with its watches. Woven in France on 19th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, its manufacturing quality, robustness and comfort on the wrist are unique. For the Pelagos FXD model, a new, highly technical strap construction was developed by TUDOR and Julien Faure. Made from a 22mm green polyester woven ribbon, the strap features a grade 2 titanium pin buckle and keeper as well as a removable fabric keeper, finely embroidered with the French Naval Aviation’s roundel, composed of the French flag’s blue, white and red colours, circled in gold and topped with a black anchor.

By notable coincidence, Julien Faure, a family firm created in 1864, has for many years woven decorative ribbons in its workshops, bearing the names of French Navy ships and forming an integral part of the legendary bachi, the red pompom hat worn by French sailors.

THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5652-U

The Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U that drives the Pelagos FXD GMT model illustrates the technical development process signature of TUDOR, drawing on adaptable movement architecture capable of integrating new functions, in this case a GMT indication, rather than resorting to additional modules. A minor detail for some, but a must for watchmaking purists.

This movement offers the general look and feel of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres with dedicated sun laser design and bears the “Master Chronometer” mention on its bridges, emphasising its superior performance. Its monobloc rotor is made of tungsten. It is openworked and features the laser radial grooving and sand-blasted details distinctive to TUDOR Master Chronometer calibers. A combination of finishings can be found on the bridges as well.

The build of the Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U is designed to ensure robustness and precision. To do this, the variable inertia balance wheel is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with two-point anchoring. It is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily rate of an uncased movement of between -4 and +6 seconds and TUDOR applies a 6-second (-2/+4) variation standard on its fully assembled watches, METAS requires a fully assembled Master Chronometer-certified watch to run within a tolerance range of 5 seconds (0/+5). Not only is the Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U certified to be more accurate, it is also rated as anti-magnetic, making it impervious to magnetic fields below 15,000 gauss.

Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U is “weekend-proof”, able to run for about 65 hours. This enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind or reset it.

“The Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U that drives the Pelagos FXD GMT model illustrates the technical development process signature of TUDOR, drawing on adaptable movement architecture capable of integrating new functions, in this case a GMT indication, rather than resorting to additional modules. A minor detail for some, but a must for watchmaking purists.”

THE TUDOR MANUFACTURE
Every TUDOR watch, including the Pelagos FXD GMT, is assembled and fully tested to TUDOR’s superior standards at the new TUDOR Manufacture located in Le Locle, Switzerland.

This new state-of-the-art facility, bringing together the know-how of watchmakers with the best in production management and automated testing systems, was completed in 2021 after three years of construction.

All decked out in TUDOR red, the Manufacture spans over four levels totalling 5,500 square meters and is physically and visually connected to the neighbouring Kenissi Manufacture, the TUDOR movement production facility founded in 2016. With Kenissi and a network of TUDOR-owned affiliates, the brand has been able to integrate the development and production of high-performance mechanical calibres. As a consequence, TUDOR now fully masters the manufacturing of strategic components and can guarantee their quality.

The post PELAGOS FXD GMT “ZULU TIME” appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

Professional cycling isn’t for the faint of heart. Riders’ bodies and minds are pushed to the absolute limit with every pedal stroke, not to mention the incredible danger of the sport. A watch engineered with professional cycling in mind needs to stand up to the extreme demands of the sport, while being easy for the rider to operate. It’s no secret that the fastest bikes are made of carbon fibre, and that’s why TUDOR opted for carbon composite for the case of the new chronograph designed with daring riders in mind. The implementation of titanium elements help make the watch necessarily robust, as it will certainly face the unpredictable conditions presented by cycling.

It’s not only the durability of the watch that was considered during its design phase. It’s also meant to be useful to riders while they’re putting in time on the bike. It’s typical for the tachymetric scale of a chronograph to be calibrated to the speeds an automobile is capable of; indeed, many TUDOR chronographs feature a scale typically associated with motorsport. What makes the “Cycling Edition” special is that the scale is presented in a way that’s suited for the speeds that cyclists can sustain. The chronograph scale is “wrapped” around the dial in a spiral, allowing the average speeds that cyclists routinely operate at to be read at a glance. The tachymeter function on the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition” has been specifically designed for cycling.

KEY POINTS
1. 43mm black matt-finished carbon composite case with fixed strap bars
2. Fixed bezel with 60-minute graduation
3. Cycling-specific tachymeter scale on dial
4. Black matt dial with luminescent ceramic composite monobloc applied hour markers
5. Manufacture Calibre MT5813 certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) with a hairspring in silicon and a 70-hour power reserve
6. “Snowflake” hands, one of the hallmarks of the TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, with Grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminous material
7. One-piece technical fabric strap in black with matching hardware

RACE READY DIALS
The matt black dial with red accents puts legibility first and foremost and is reminiscent of the TUDOR Pro Cycling Team colours. The signature square hour-markers and “Snowflake” hands, designed back in the sixties by TUDOR to offer larger luminous surfaces and thus improve legibility, are fashioned from luminescent ceramic composite for optimal legibility in challenging conditions. Around the circumference of the dial, printed on a 45°-angled rehaut, is a re-calibrated tachymeter scale whose inner ring focuses on the speeds that cyclists ride at.

A FABRIC STRAP FOR RIDING
The single-piece fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of TUDOR, which in 2010, became one of the first watchmaking brands to offer it with its watches. Woven in France on 19th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, its manufacturing quality, robustness and comfort on the wrist are unique. For the Pelagos FXD models, a highly technical strap construction was developed by TUDOR and Julien Faure. Made up of a 22mm solid black jacquard-woven technical fabric and a traditional buckle, it’s perfect for putting in time on the bike.

MANUFACTURE CHRONOGRAPH CALIBRE MT5813
The Manufacture Calibre MT5813, powering the Pelagos FXD Chrono, displays hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph and date functions. It also bears the matt finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres and comes complete with a signature tungsten openwork monobloc rotor.

Boasting a “weekend-proof” 70-hour power reserve and a silicon balance spring, the Manufacture Chronograph Calibre MT5813 is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance exceeding the standards set by this independent institute at -2 and +4 seconds’ variation per day, tested on every fully assembled chronograph. A high-performance movement, it was crafted in the purest watchmaking tradition, with a column wheel mechanism and vertical clutch. In keeping with the TUDOR philosophy of quality, it presents extraordinary robustness and reliability, guaranteed by the array of extreme tests applied to all TUDOR products.

Derived from the Manufacture Calibre Breitling 01 chronograph, with a high-precision regulating organ developed by TUDOR and exclusive finishes, this movement is the result of a lasting collaboration between the two brands.

The post PELAGOS FXD CHRONO “CYCLING EDITION” appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

Clair de Rose is a classic TUDOR line whose name poetically refers to both clair de lune, “moonlight” in French, and the historical logo of the brand, a rose, combining the two in a playful way. In 2024, the family gets a brand-new “TUDOR Blue” dial. In a classic, refined and timeless spirit, it uses the brand’s historic aesthetic codes without straying from the gentle curves of its middle case and its striking winding crown, which on this model is set with a blue spinel cabochon. Available in three sizes, 26, 30 and 34 millimeters in diameter, it presents opaline and now “TUDOR Blue” dials with delicate decorations in relief, punctuated with Roman numerals or diamonds. Clair de Rose is fitted with a self-winding movement complete with date function and is available exclusively in stainless steel.

KEY POINTS
1. Satin-brushed and polished case in stainless steel, delicate and stylish case design tapping into TUDOR’s rich heritage
2. “TUDOR Blue” or opaline dial with or without diamonds
3. Self-winding Calibre T601 or T201 with 38-hour power reserve
4. 5-link stainless steel “beads of rice” bracelet
5. Five-year transferable guarantee, with no registration or periodic maintenance checks required

THE SPIRIT OF CLAIR DE ROSE
This feminine watch is the latest in a long history at TUDOR, dating back to the art-deco era in the early ’30s. Back then, TUDOR was known for crafting delicate and cutting-edge jewellery watches with a wealth of details, ranging from decorative case engravings to subtle dial ornaments and precious bracelets. A modern take on that heritage, the Clair de Rose line presents a style that is both delicate and bold, making aesthetic reference to lines with evocative names such as Princess, Glamour or Miss TUDOR. It was from the latter collection that one of the most recognisable Clair de Rose elements was taken: the winding crown adorned with a precious spinel cabochon. Another distinctive feature of the Clair de Rose line is its stainless steel 5-link bracelet, sometimes referred to as the “beads of rice” bracelet. Its small size and expertly engineered links make for unrivalled suppleness and comfort while its polished finishes bring a sophisticated shine to the wrist.

TUDOR BLUE
Ever since 1969 when TUDOR first introduced its signature blue dial on the TUDOR Submariner, TUDOR has incorporated blue dials into its aesthetic code on many of the models in its range. TUDOR Blue isn’t a specific shade of blue, but rather, it’s the idea that the color has come to be closely associated with TUDOR and historically has appeared frequently in the model line-up.

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TUDOR is introducing an additional model to the Black Bay line, the Black Bay 58 GMT. This entirely new model is evocative of an era when the novelty of jet-setting across time zones was matched by glamorous and elegant style. It is fitted with TUDOR’s new mid-size GMT Manufacture Calibre paired with warm hues of burgundy, black, and gilt on the bezel. The universally appealing case of the Black Bay 58 has become the model’s calling card, and now it comes in GMT form.

The Black Bay 58 is named after the year in which the first TUDOR divers’ watch waterproof to 200 metres, the reference 7924, dubbed the “Big Crown”, was introduced. Among other aesthetic allusions to this famous historic watch, this model has a 39mm diameter case, in keeping with the characteristic proportions of the 1950s. The watch is the perfect match for a GMT function, and with the Black Bay 58 GMT, the jet-setter’s ultimate function comes with a touch of mid-century elegance. The bezel is burgundy and black with a gilt 24-hour scale, keeping with the general design language of the Black Bay line. The design is reminiscent of a time when TUDOR divers’ watches were first being made and jet planes were moving through times zones and delivering interlopers to destinations they could only dream of, faster than ever before. Finishing gilt touches have been applied to the hour markers, hands, and hour markers of the bicolour bezel. Another fan-favourite touch that remains on the Black Bay 58 GMT is the winding crown, which bears the TUDOR rose logo in relief.

KEY POINTS
1. “Original” Black Bay 58 proportions of a 39mm case in stainless steel with a 24-hour bidirectional black and burgundy bezel with gilt accents
2. Subtly domed matt black dial with gilt accents
3. “Snowflake” hands, a hallmark of TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material
4. GMT Manufacture Calibre MT5450-U, certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with a silicon hairspring and a 65-hour power reserve
5. Master Chronometer certified by METAS
6. A choice between a stainless steel 3-link “rivet-style” bracelet or a rubber strap, both with TUDOR “T-fit” rapid adjustment clasp
7. Five-year transferable guarantee, with no registration or periodic maintenance checks required

TUDOR QUALITY
With the introduction of this brand-new Black Bay 58 GMT, TUDOR has successfully submitted yet another model for tests to obtain Master Chronometer certification. This is part of a constant bid to improve the quality of its products and another step towards a future where the entire TUDOR collection will be Master Chronometer certified. This certification, offered by a Swiss government body, METAS, requires a substantial number of changes to a regular TUDOR Manufacture Calibre and comes as an independent confirmation of the exceptional quality of the TUDOR watches.

COMPREHENSIVE INDEPENDENT CERTIFICATION AND HIGH STANDARDS
METAS Master Chronometer certification is comprehensive and covers the main functional characteristics of a watch including precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness and power reserve. Its standards are incredibly high, starting with precision. In order to qualify, a watch must be able to function within a 5-second range of variation each day (0/+5), that is to say 5 seconds less than the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) (-4/+6) carried out on a single movement and a second less than TUDOR’s internal standard (-2/+4), which is applied to the brand’s models with a Manufacture Calibre. The certification also guarantees the timekeeping accuracy of a watch subjected to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss. Finally, it also guarantees the waterproofness claimed by the manufacturer as well as the power reserve. It should also be noted that two prerequisites are necessary before the certification can be obtained: Swiss manufacturing must conform with the criteria of Swiss Made, and the movement must be certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

CRITERIA AND TESTS FOR MASTER CHRONOMETER CERTIFICATION BY METAS
All the tests and prerequisites leading to the Master Chronometer certification, which the Black Bay has achieved, are summarised below:

 Swiss Made
 Certification by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC)
 Precision at two temperatures, in six positions and at two levels of power reserve: 100% and 33%
 Smooth functioning when exposed to a magnetic field of 15,000 gauss and precision following exposure
 Waterproof to 200m (660 ft)
 65-hour power reserve

THE GMT MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5450-U
The Manufacture Calibre MT5450-U, which powers the Black Bay 58 GMT illustrates the technical development process signature of TUDOR, drawing on adaptable movement architecture capable of integrating new functions rather than resorting to additional modules. A minor detail for some, but a must for watchmaking purists.

Displaying hour, minute, seconds and GMT functions, it offers the general look and feel of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres with dedicated sun laser design and bears the Master Chronometer mention on its bridges, emphasising its distinctive performance. Its rotor is fashioned in tungsten monobloc and is openworked. It also features the distinctive laser radial grooving with sand-blasted details. Its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted and polished surfaces and laser decorations.

The build of the Manufacture Calibre MT5450-U is designed to ensure robustness and precision. To do this, the variable inertia balance wheel is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with two-point anchoring. It is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily rate of an uncased movement of between -4 and +6 seconds and TUDOR applies a 6-second (-2/+4) variation standard on its fully assembled watches, METAS requires a Master Chronometer certified watch to run within a tolerance range of 5 seconds (0/+5). Not only is the Manufacture Calibre MT5450-U certified to be more accurate, it is also rated as anti-magnetic, making it impervious to magnetic fields below 15,000 gauss.

Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5450-U is “weekend-proof”, about 65 hours. This enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to reset it.

EMBLEMATIC LOOK
The Black Bay remains one of TUDOR’s most recognized and recognizable lines. In the Black Bay 58 GMT, the case offers the proportions of a 39mm case with a thinner profile than a 41mm Black Bay GMT. The bidirectional rotatable bezel offers very prehensible sides and its insert shows subtly curved numerals aligning with the outline of the outer ring. However, the aesthetic details don’t stop at case dimensions and bezel. The seconds hand recalls the look of the early diving watches of the brand with a lollipop design, while the satin black dial is softly radial-brushed for a very subtle shine under direct light. Ergonomics have evolved as well, with a redesigned crown, reminiscent of the curves found on the crowns of the brand’s historical technical watches, that is set flush to the middle case band so that its tube is not visible.

“RIVET-STYLE” BRACELET OR RUBBER STRAP, BOTH WITH “T-FIT”
The “rivet-style” 3-link bracelet of the Black Bay 58 GMT model visually refers to the riveted bracelets used by TUDOR in the 1950s and 1960s. These were famous for having rivet heads visible on the side of the links. These bracelets also had a distinct stepped design, where every link, going from the clasp, was slightly larger than the previous one. These two aesthetic elements appear on today’s version, which combines modern manufacturing methods with solid links and “rivets” with laser-finished heads. This bracelet also comes with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp, an ingenuous system for rapid length adjustment. Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, this practical touch allows wearers to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of the total length of the bracelet along an adjustment window of 8mm. The clasp features ceramic ball bearings that ensure a smooth and secure closure in addition to adding a pleasing tactile element to the action of the clasp.

A cut-to-size black rubber strap option is also available for the Black Bay 58 GMT. It comes in three sizes, fitted with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp for the perfect fit. On the inside, it features the signature snowflake motif for added grip, and it is form-fitted specifically for this model.

THE ESSENCE OF BLACK BAY
The Black Bay line features dials inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced during the 1950s. It borrows the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “Snowflake” from models that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Its shoulderless crown and the characteristics of its case are reminiscent of the first generations of TUDOR divers’ watches.

The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, it brings together 70 years of TUDOR dive watches, whilst at the same time being resolutely anchored in the present. It is neo-vintage in conception, yet its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finishes are consistent with today’s more rigorous requirements.

The post BLACK BAY 58 GMT appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

The name Black Bay 58 18K is, of course, a reference to the precious metal of its case and bracelet, but also to 1958, the year in which the first TUDOR divers’ watch waterproof to 200 metres (660 ft), reference 7924 or “Big Crown”, was introduced. The Black Bay 58 18K is also the first TUDOR divers’ watch to be made in 18 ct solid yellow gold, offered with an open case back. And now it comes with a matching all satin-finished 18 ct yellow gold bracelet to boot.

KEY POINTS
1. 39mm case with satin finish in 18 ct yellow gold with an open case back
2. Subtly domed matt “golden green” dial with applied hour markers in 18 ct yellow gold
3. “Snowflake” hands, a hallmark of TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, in 18 ct yellow gold, with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material
4. Manufacture Calibre MT5400, certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) with a hairspring in silicon and a 70-hour power reserve
5. 3-link 18 ct yellow gold bracelet with TUDOR “T-fit” rapid adjustment clasp
6. Five-year transferable guarantee, with no registration or periodic maintenance checks required

MATT GOLD AND “GOLDEN GREEN” TONES
Entirely satin-finished for a matt effect, the 18 ct yellow gold case of the Black Bay 58 18K is another first for a TUDOR divers’ watch. An open case back, which reveals the new Manufacture Calibre MT5400, has not been offered by the brand before for this type of product and reinforces the dual aesthetic language of this model. Midway between the legacy of a robust tool-watch that still defines TUDOR and a precious object, the Black Bay 58 18K remains as rare as it is exclusive. The matt 18 ct yellow gold of the Black Bay 58 18K is emphasised by the combination of dial and bezel, which are a rich “golden green” in tone with matt gold details. The “Snowflake” hands are also in 18 ct yellow gold, as are the applied hour markers.

SOLID GOLD BRACELET
Another first for a TUDOR diving watch, the Black Bay 58 18K now comes with a solid gold 3-link bracelet featuring the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp, an ingenuous system for rapid length adjustment. Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, this practical touch allows wearers to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of the total length of the bracelet along an adjustment window of 8mm. The clasp features ceramic ball bearings that ensure a smooth and secure closure in addition to adding a pleasing tactile element to the action of the clasp.

THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5400
The Manufacture Calibre MT5400, which powers the Black Bay 58 18K, displays hour, minute and second functions. It has the finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres: its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted and polished surfaces and laser decorations.

The build of the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 is designed to ensure robustness and precision. To do this, the variable inertia balance wheel is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with two-point anchoring. It is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily rate of an uncased movement of between -4 and +6 seconds, TUDOR applies a 6-second (-2/+4) variation standard on its fully assembled watches with Manufacture Calibres.

Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 is “weekend-proof”; that is to say about 70 hours, which enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to reset it.

THE ESSENCE OF BLACK BAY
The Black Bay line features dials inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced during the 1950s. It borrows the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “Snowflake” from models that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Its shoulderless crown and the characteristics of its case are reminiscent of the first generations of TUDOR divers’ watches.

The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, it brings together 70 years of TUDOR dive watches, whilst at the same time being resolutely anchored in the present. It is neo-vintage in conception, yet its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finishes are consistent with today’s more rigorous requirements.

The post BLACK BAY 58 18K appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

The original Black Bay first launched in 2012 and was given the Manufacture Calibre treatment in 2016. Now it is offered in a third evolution cementing the aesthetic and technical future of the line. Alongside the third-generation Black Bay with burgundy bezel, this new iteration features a monochromatic look with an inky black dial and applied rhodium-plated hour markers and hands for a modern aesthetic. Named Black Bay, this emblematic design in the TUDOR collection is another example of TUDOR’s expert command of one of the industry’s most demanding standards in terms of chronometry and resistance to magnetic fields. Tested by the Federal Institute of Metrology or METAS, the Black Bay brings together cutting-edge watchmaking technology with design elements inspired by TUDOR’s nearly seven-decade heritage of making robust professional diving watches.

KEY POINTS
1. “Original” Black Bay proportions of a 41mm case in stainless steel with a 60-minute unidirectional black bezel with silver accents
2. Subtly domed satin radial-brushed black dial with silver accents
3. “Snowflake” hands, a hallmark of TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material
4. Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U, certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with a silicon hairspring and a 70-hour power reserve
5. A choice between a stainless steel 3-link “rivet-style” or 5-link bracelet or a rubber strap, all with TUDOR “T-fit” rapid adjustment clasp
6. Master Chronometer certified by METAS
7. Five-year transferable guarantee, with no registration or periodic maintenance checks required

TUDOR QUALITY
With the introduction of this brand-new Black Bay, TUDOR has successfully submitted yet another model for tests to obtain Master Chronometer certification. This is part of a constant bid to improve the quality of its products and another step towards a future where the entire TUDOR collection will be Master Chronometer certified. This certification, offered by a Swiss government body, METAS, requires a substantial number of changes to a regular TUDOR Manufacture Calibre and comes as an independent confirmation of the exceptional quality of the TUDOR watches.

COMPREHENSIVE INDEPENDENT CERTIFICATION AND HIGH STANDARDS
METAS Master Chronometer certification is comprehensive and covers the main functional characteristics of a watch including precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness and power reserve. Its standards are incredibly high, starting with precision. In order to qualify, a watch must be able to function within a 5-second range of variation each day (0/+5), that is to say 5 seconds less than the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) (-4/+6) carried out on uncased movements and a second less than TUDOR’s internal standard (-2/+4), which is applied to the brand’s models with a Manufacture Calibre. The certification also guarantees the timekeeping accuracy of a watch subjected to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss. Finally, it also guarantees the waterproofness claimed by the manufacturer as well as the power reserve. It should also be noted that two prerequisites are necessary before the certification can be obtained: Swiss manufacturing must conform with the criteria of Swiss Made, and the movement must be certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

CRITERIA AND TESTS FOR METAS CERTIFICATION
All the tests and prerequisites leading to the Master Chronometer certification, which the Black Bay has achieved, are summarised below:

 Swiss Made
 Certification by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC)
 Precision at two temperatures, in six positions and at two levels of power reserve: 100% and 33%
 Smooth functioning when exposed to a magnetic field of 15,000 gauss and precision following exposure
 Waterproof to 200m (660 ft)
 70-hour power reserve

THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5602-U
The Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U, which powers the Black Bay, displays hour, minute and seconds functions. It offers the general look and feel of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres with dedicated sun laser design and bears the Master Chronometer mention on its bridges, emphasising its distinctive performance. Its rotor is fashioned in tungsten monobloc and is openworked. It also features the distinctive laser radial grooving with sand-blasted details. Its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted and polished surfaces and laser decorations.

The build of the Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U is designed to ensure robustness and precision. To do this, the variable inertia balance wheel is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with two-point anchoring. It is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily rate of an uncased movement of between (-4/+6) seconds and TUDOR applies a 6-second (-2/+4) variation standard on its fully assembled watches, METAS requires a Master-Chronometer-certified watch to run within a tolerance range of 5 seconds (0/+5). Not only is the Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U certified to be more accurate, it is also rated as anti-magnetic, making it impervious to magnetic fields below 15,000 gauss.

Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U Calibre is “weekend-proof”; that is to say, it has been certified for 70 hours by METAS, which enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind it. Even if you need a weekend away, your watch does not.

EMBLEMATIC LOOK
The Black Bay remains one of TUDOR’s most recognized and recognizable models. In its latest iteration, the case keeps the original proportions of a 41mm case with a thinner profile. The unidirectional rotatable bezel offers very prehensible sides and its insert shows subtly curved numerals aligning with the outline of the outer ring. However, the aesthetic details don’t stop at case dimensions and bezel. The seconds hand recalls the look of the early diving watches of the brand with a lollipop design, while the satin black dial is softly radial-brushed for a very subtle shine under direct light. Ergonomics have evolved as well, with a redesigned crown, reminiscent of the curves found on the crowns of the brand’s historical technical watches, that is set flush to the middle case band so that its tube is not visible.

STAINLESS STEEL BRACELETS OR RUBBER STRAP, ALL WITH “T-FIT”

The Black Bay comes fitted with either an entirely satin-brushed 3-link stainless steel bracelet or a five-oval-shaped-link brushed and polished bracelet also in steel, both complete with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp equipped with a system for rapid length adjustment. Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, this practical system allows wearers to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of the total length of the bracelet along an adjustment window of 8mm. The clasp features ceramic ball bearings that ensure a smooth and secure closure in addition to adding a pleasing tactile element to the action of the clasp.

The “rivet-style” 3-link bracelet of the Black Bay model visually refers to the riveted bracelets used by TUDOR in the 1950s and 1960s. These were famous for having rivet heads visible on the side of the links. These bracelets also had a distinct stepped design, where every link, going from the clasp, was slightly larger than the previous one. These two aesthetic elements appear on today’s version, which combines modern manufacturing methods with solid links and “rivets” with laser-finished heads.

A cut-to-size black rubber strap option is also available for the Black Bay. It comes in three sizes, fitted with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp for the perfect fit. On the inside, it features the signature snowflake motif for added grip, and it is form-fitted specifically for this model.

THE ESSENCE OF BLACK BAY
The Black Bay line features dials inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced during the 1950s. It borrows the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “Snowflake” from models that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Its shoulderless crown and the characteristics of its case are reminiscent of the first generations of TUDOR divers’ watches.

The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, it brings together 70 years of TUDOR dive watches, whilst at the same time being resolutely anchored in the present. It is neo-vintage in conception, yet its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finishes are consistent with today’s more rigorous requirements.

The post BLACK BAY appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

TUDOR has established a long legacy of competing on the racetrack. TUDOR supported winning teams during the golden era of motorsport, starting with the Tudor Watch Racing Team in the late ‘60s, all the way to the recent IMSA TUDOR United SportsCar Championship. Now, in 2024, TUDOR is returning to the grid once more.

Visa Cash App RB is a brand-new Formula 1 team supported by TUDOR. Driving the cars are proven race winner Daniel Ricciardo and exciting youngster Yuki Tsunoda. The team has undergone a radical shake up, not just in terms of the striking livery which features TUDOR branding, as do the drivers’ race suits, but across all departments, from management to engineering, as it sets out on a new adventure aimed at making it a Formula 1 front-runner.

“TUDOR has always been fueled by a daring spirit, a consistent will to do things differently,” says TUDOR CEO Eric Pirson. “And this spirit—we call it Born to Dare—is exactly what Visa Cash App RB is demonstrating heading into the 2024 F1 season. We’re beyond thrilled to return to motorsport with a partner that’s ready to take on the challenge,” he adds.

“We are delighted to welcome TUDOR to our team. They have a long history in motorsport, dating back to the 60s when they first got involved in sports car racing, as well as historic racing and rallying” commented Peter Bayer, CEO of Visa Cash App RB Formula One Team. “Now, the Swiss watch company has seized the opportunity to move up to the very pinnacle of motorsport, joining us, as we tackle the 2024 Formula 1 World Championship with our new Visa Cash App RB identity. Our team will be challenging the status quo in Formula 1 with a strong identity, unique style and uncompromising quality – just like Tudor watches.”

TUDOR does things its own way. After all, that’s what being “Born to Dare” is all about. The new Visa Cash App RB partnership speaks to that. Slapping the TUDOR name on a winning car is easy. But choosing the right team to support is another story. It means supporting the team that shows promise and shares a daring ethos and a fighting spirit. One that’s ready to take on the challenge of racing to the front of the pack from behind. That’s why TUDOR joined Visa Cash App RB. The TUDOR way is to give it your all, rise to the challenge, and dare to try something new.

TUDOR is going full throttle into the 2024 Formula 1 season with the Visa Cash App RB Formula One team.

The post TUDOR RETURNS TO MOTORSPORT, JOINING FORCES WITH NEWLY CREATED VISA CASH APP RB FORMULA ONE TEAM appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.