• FOLLOWING THE SUCCESS OF THE FIRST EDITION, THE PARTNERSHIP IS EXTENDED WITH THE FREAK X GUMBALL 3000 – EDITION 2.
• THE FREAK X GUMBALL 3000 – EDITION 2 IS A NEW PERFORMANCE-DRIVEN EXPRESSION OF ULYSSE NARDIN’S FREAK X.
• A BOLD BLACK AND ORANGE DESIGN LANGUAGE TRANSLATING GUMBALL 3000’S CULTURE OF MOVEMENT, FREEDOM, AND ENERGY.
• AN ULTRA-LIGHT CARBONIUM® HOUR DISC CRAFTED FROM AEROSPACE-GRADE CARBON FIBRES, INFUSED WITH ORANGE EPOXY RESIN, COMBINED WITH A BLACK DLC TITANIUM CASE.
• EXCLUSIVE EDITION OF 150 PIECES.

Le Locle [23/02/2026] – When two independent worlds driven by performance and the refusal of convention move in the same direction, the result is not a crossover, but a continuation. United by a shared belief in pushing limits through innovation, precision, and self-expression, Ulysse Nardin and Gumball 3000 have built a long-term collaboration rooted in mindset rather than category. More than a rally, Gumball 3000 has become a moving lifestyle platform, defined by epic journeys across the globe and a community that values individuality as much as performance.
For the third consecutive year, the partnership continues with the Freak X Gumball 3000 – Edition 2 — a statement piece engineered around cutting-edge mechanics and high-performance design codes inspired by both worlds.

GUMBALL 3000: MAVERICKS IN MOTION
Since 1999, Maximillion Cooper has led a convoy of mavericks on a 3,000-mile odyssey that goes far beyond speed or spectacle. Gumball 3000 is not about the destination. It is about the drive, the challenges faced along the way, and the stories created in motion. Over the years, the rally has drawn an eclectic mix of visionaries — artists, entrepreneurs, athletes, and cultural icons — united by a shared appetite for adventure, the freedom to think differently, and an unstoppable desire to push beyond boundaries.
In 2026, Gumball 3000 returns to North America with a bold route from Miami to Mexico City, the ‘Road to the World Cup’, crossing borders, landscapes, and cultures over seven days and 3,000 miles. The rally brings together 100 carefully selected cars, supported by tourism boards, host cities, and global partners to create a rolling, large-scale festival of music, car culture, and live events. From Miami to Amelia Island, New Orleans, Austin, Monterrey, and San Miguel de Allende before reaching Mexico City, where official rally participants will receive a VIP hospitality ticket to the Opening Match of FIFA World Cup 26™ taking place at the iconic Estadio Azteca. Each stop along the route becomes a stage, uniting people through a shared celebration of cars, music, and culture.
More than an endurance drive, Gumball 3000 is a lifestyle where performance meets creativity, and precision meets spontaneity. That same forward-driven mindset finds expression in the Freak X Gumball 3000 – Edition 2, a timepiece defined by radical architecture, mechanical innovation, and uncompromising performance. On the road or on the wrist, it reflects a shared commitment to pushing boundaries and moving forward without pause.

“I’m excited for Gumball 3000 and Ulysse Nardin to celebrate the third year of this partnership with a stunning new Freak Limited Edition watch.
This watch represents both brands daring creativity and bold lifestyles, making it a natural fit for the rally’s participants and luxury watch collectors all over the world.
Gumball 3000 and Ulysse Nardin are known for their unique approach to defying conventions and pushing boundaries, and this summer we will be celebrating this individuality and pioneering spirit together on the rally from Miami to Mexico City.”
Maximillion Cooper, Founder & Creative Director of Gumball 3000

THE FREAK [X GUMBALL 3000] – EDITION 2

When it was launched in 2001, the Freak redefined the rules of watchmaking. It was more than a new watch; it reset the codes of watchmaking. No hands. No dial. No crown. The movement itself became the display of time. As the first “superwatch” ever created, the Freak did not simply look different; it functioned differently, ushering in a new era of modern horology.

The Freak also marked a decisive technological turning point as the first watch to introduce silicon components, opening the door to high-performance, ultra-precise, and magnetism-resistant mechanics. This breakthrough triggered a wave of innovation across the industry. With 35 patents to its name, the Freak remains one of the most influential timepieces of the 21st century, embodying Ulysse Nardin’s commitment to mechanical innovation and technological disruption.

The Freak X translated this maverick DNA into a more streamlined and casual form. While a crown was added for winding and setting, its signature architecture remained intact: a rotating hour disc completing one rotation every 12 hours to indicate the hours, and a flying carrousel held without an upper bridge, rotating once per hour to indicate the minutes.

The Freak X Gumball 3000 – Edition 2 expresses through the unmistakable DNA of the Gumball 3000 Rally, driven by movement, energy, and visual intensity. Its bold black and orange palette draws from Gumball 3000’s instantly recognisable codes, translating a culture of speed, individuality, and forward momentum into a distinctly high-tech horological expression.

At the heart of this aesthetic lies an hour disc in Carbonium®, an ultra-high-performance material emblematic of Ulysse Nardin’s long-standing expertise in advanced materials. Crafted from ultra-light carbon fibre upcycled from the aerospace industry, Carbonium® is inspired by patterns of Damascus steel. Produced by weaving carbon fibres with a vivid orange epoxy resin, it reveals a distinctive three-dimensional texture that ensures no two discs are ever identical. This singular material expression not only enhances the watch’s bold visual identity, but also reinforces its technical character, reflecting a modern, high-tech approach to contemporary mechanical watchmaking.

For the first time, the wheel is highlighted by an orange Super-LumiNova® ring, complemented by white Super-LumiNova® details across the indexes and bridges. This enhancement sharpens legibility while amplifying the watch’s graphic and technical presence. The black DLC titanium case, paired with an open worked black rubber strap with orange inserts and stitching, completes a composition that is both lightweight and uncompromisingly performance driven.

The post FREAK [X GUMBALL 3000] EDITION 2 A HIGH-PERFORMANCE EXPRESSION OF THE REVOLUTIONARY ICON appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

When it was launched in 2001, the Freak redefined the rules of watchmaking. It was not just a new watch. It was a reset button. No hands. No dial. No crown. Instead, the Freak introduced a concept that had never been seen before: the movement itself telling the time. This first “superwatch” did not just look different, it functioned differently and ushered in a new era: the Modern Horology Era.

Behind this new Age and radical innovation was the genius and visionary Dr. Ludwig Oechslin. It all began in the 1980s, when most of the industry was turning to quartz. But Ulysse Nardin, in collaboration with Oechslin, developed an Haute Horlogerie marvel, a mechanical wristwatch capable of mapping the night sky: the Astrolabium Galileo Galilei. This extraordinary timepiece, the most complicated watch ever made, earned a place in the Guinness World Records. A few years later, in 2001, the same spirit of innovation and independence gave rise to the Freak—the most complicated time-only watch ever created, and one of the most groundbreaking in horological history.

It was also the very first watch to introduce silicon technology — a move that would trigger a wave across the entire industry and open the door to a new age of high-performance, ultra-precise timekeeping. Since its debut, the Freak has obtained over 20 patents and sparked a movement in 21st century horology. More than a breakthrough in engineering, the Freak is a symbol of creativity, mechanical advancement, and independence.

Introduced in 2019, the Freak X brought this maverick DNA into a streamlined form. For the first time, a crown was added for winding and setting the time. But its signature spirit remained: one-hour flying orbital carousel and a mechanical theatre. With the Freak [X Crystalium], Ulysse Nardin takes the next step, merging its pioneering mechanics with a whole new frontier of design: an innovative rotating hour disc, born from a high-tech process at the edge of material science.

FREAK[ X CRYSTALIUM] DISRUPTIVE BY NATURE, REFINED BY CRAFT

At Ulysse Nardin, innovation goes beyond mechanics. It is also about how a watch feels, looks, and beats on the wrist. The Freak is the iconic ambassador of this mindset: a true manifesto of pushing the boundaries of innovation and technology.

Now, with the Freak [X Crystalium], that legacy moves into the realm of high-tech decorative arts. The rotating hour disc is made of Crystalium, a revolutionary material that fuses scientific precision with raw aesthetic expression. Here is how it is made.

At the core is ruthenium, a platinum-group metal known for its strength and shine —10 times rarer than platinum. Over several days, it undergoes a slow, controlled vapour-deposition crystallisation process — the same way frost forms on glass. This process, which took years to perfect, results in natural, fractal-like crystal structures, impossible to duplicate, full of shimmering texture and microscopic complexity. Each disc is a one-off, a singular piece of material art. To heighten its effect, it is treated with a warm rose gold PVD finish and subtle black shading, hand-applied with fine varnish to deepen the contrast and accentuate the light play. This is not decoration. This is next-generation craftsmanship.

The Freak [X Crystalium] is housed in a black DLC-coated titanium case, with a matching bezel, black hour indicator, and minute bridge. It is paired with a ballistic-textured black rubber strap that gives the watch a bold and modern presence. This ultra-dark backdrop sets the stage for the Crystalium disc, radiant through its rose gold colour, alive with light, and rich in visual depth: a captivating expression of material in motion.

At the heart of the watch lies the automatic calibre UN-230, featuring a flying carrousel with a silicon balance wheel and escapement—crafted entirely in-house at Ulysse Nardin’s dedicated silicon lab, SIGATEC. Both components are suspended by a bridge that functions as the minute hand, completing a full rotation every hour. The Crystalium hour disc, with its pointer positioned beneath the movement, serves as the hour hand and completes a full rotation every 12 hours. This subtle, continuous motion perfectly fuses engineering and aesthetics in seamless synchrony.

The Freak [X Crystalium] is a watch that embodies everything Ulysse Nardin stands for: mechanical daring, material innovation, and the bold spirit to explore what is next. It is about redefining the future of watchmaking, one revolution at a time.

The post FREAK [X CRYSTALIUM] – FUSION OF ADVANCED MECHANICS AND HIGH-TECH DECORATIVE ARTS appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

MYSTERIOUS COMPLICATION: LEAVING YOU WONDERING HOW THE MECHANICS TRULY WORK.
A FLYING DOUBLE BARREL WITH DAY POWER RESERVE.

GROUNDBREAKING FLYING TOURBILLON WITH CONSTANT FORCE ESCAPEMENT:
FIRST INTRODUCED IN , WINNING THE GPHG TOURBILLON AWARD. ONE OF THE WORLD’S FIRST IN SILICON, DELIVERING CONSTANT POWER, MINIMISING ENERGY LOSS, AND ENSURING FLAWLESS PRECISION.
ULTRA GLASS BOX: A SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL GLASS BOX PROVIDING A WIDE OPEN VIEW OF THE FLOATING ARCHITECTURE.

THE DIAL IS CRAFTED FROM MAILLECHORT: A TRADITIONAL ALLOY OF COPPER, ZINC, AND NICKEL, PRIZED FOR ITS WARM TONES AND UNIQUE TEXTURE.

LIMITED EDITION OF JUST  TIMEPIECES.

BLAST FREE WHEEL MAILLECHORT WHERE MYSTERY MEETS MASTERY

Le Locle, July 16, 2025 — The independent Swiss watchmaking Maison Ulysse Nardin unveils the BLAST [FREE WHEEL MAILLECHORT], an exclusive timepiece limited to jut 50 pieces. This unconventional horological creation pushes the
boundaries of traditional watchmaking, overing a bold fusion of my serious design and groundbreaking mechanism.

At the heart of this horological masterpiece lies a series of unprecedented flying mechanisms. From the floating double-barrel system to the award-winning Ulysses Anchor Constant Escapement, the BLAST [FREE WHEEL MAILLECHORT] challenges the conventional and elevates precision engineering to new heights. Beneath the ultra-glass box, a dial crated from Maillechort adds depth, evolving over time into a unique expression of character and craftsmanship.

TECHNOLOGY FREE FLOATING MECHANISM

At the heart of this edgy Haute Horlogerie complication, the unique and innovative UN-176 calibre seems to defy not only the laws of physics, but also the very principles of watchmaking construction. Perfecting this flying movement, entirely designed by the integrated Manufacture, required two years of research and development to Ulysse Nardin’s technical department.

The BLAST [FREE WHEEL MAILLECHORT] presents Ulysse Nardin’s award-winning flying tourbillon with the Ulysse Anchor Constant Escapement. Composed of 45 components, the tourbillon is located at 6 o’clock and boasts a revolutionary constant escapement. Challenging the principle of the traditional anchor escapement, the Ulysse Anchor Constant Escapement features a circular frame with a pallet fork fixed in the center, supported in space on two blade springs less than a quarter of the thickness of a hair in diameter. Mounted perpendicular to each other, these are subjected to a bending force that curves them and maintains them. This major technical achievement directed by Ulysse Nardin guarantees a perfectly even impulse on the balance wheel, irrespective TECHNOLOGY FREE FLOATING MECHANISM of the watch’s power reserve. Thanks to silicon technology also incorporated in the hairspring and the escapement, the jewels of the usual escapement-wheel become superfluous, as does the anchor pivot. This exceptional tourbillon, which reflects Ulysse Nardin’s triumphs in terms of innovation, proudly won the Tourbillon Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2015.

At 12 o’clock, a floating double-barrel system is positioned, flying without any visible attachment on the surface. One barrel is fully exposed, while the other operates unseen. Precision ball bearings hold everything in perfect alignment. The energy it accumulates provides the timepiece with an exceptional autonomy of seven days, outlined by a highly original power reserve display at 4 o’clock. The indicator remains static, unlike the display disc: three bands opposing the indicator mean that the watch is fully wound, while a single band indicates that the power reserve is almost empty.

In addition, several additional flying mechanisms are displayed on either side of the barrel: on its left, an intermediate wheel, a power reserve differential, and a reduction gear; on its right, the winding mechanism that connects it to the crown’s winding stem, allowing the selection of the winding system train or the time setting.

DESIGN A 360° VIEW INTO MECHANICAL MASTERY

The BLAST [FREE WHEEL MAILLECHORT] is a spectacular show. Its bold 45mm case, crafted in white gold, features
negative angle facets designed using a complex laser method. Renowned for its disruptive aesthetic and ergonomic properties, this satin-finished and polished BLAST case once again proves the cutting-edge know-how of the independent
Manufacture.

The geometric lines feature a unique ultra-glass box in sapphire crystal that offers a wide-open view of the mysterious movement, which is also visible through the sides. The distinctive characteristic of this glass box lies in its construction: it was carved from a single block of sapphire crystal, meticulously hollowed out to form the box and achieve this unparalleled shape.

Beneath the dome glass and the flying mechanism lies a dial crafted from Maillechort, a traditional alloy of copper, zinc,
and nickel. Known for its warm, silvery tones and distinctive grained texture, it is prized for its durability and unique
aesthetic. More difficult to manufacture than brass due to its hardness and complex composition, it requires craftsmanship and precision. Historically used in musical instruments for its resonant acoustic properties, Maillechort is a “living metal” that develops a one-of-a-kind patina over time, adding character and depth. This material was invented in the early 19th century by French engineers Maillet and Chorier, whose combined names became «Maillechort».

Underscoring the meticulous attention to detail in its design, the case back of the BLAST [FREE WHEEL MAILLECHORT] is open, featuring a sapphire glass and a Maillechort plate.

This exclusive limited edition of 50 pieces features a blue velvet effect and waterproof rubber strap, with a white gold
folding buckle.

DOUBLE BARREL SYSTEM
Floating double-barrel system flying without any visible attachment on the surface. One barrel is fully exposed, while the other operates unseen. Precision ball bearings hold everything in perfect alignment. The energy it accumulates provides the timepiece with an exceptional autonomy of seven days – indicated by a highly original power reserve display at 4 o’clock.

DECORATED WINDING WHEEL POWER RESERVE INDICATOR
The indicator remains static, unlike the display disc: three bands opposite the indicator mean that the watch is fully wound, while a single band means that the power reserve is almost empty.

FLYING TOURBILLON WITH ULYSSE ANCHOR CONSTANT ESCAPEMENT
It features a circular frame with a pallet fork fixed in the center, supported in space on two blade springs. Mounted perpendicular to each other, these are subjected to a bending force that curves them and maintains them. Thanks to silicon technology also incorporated in the hairspring and the escapement-wheel, the anchor pivot and the jewels of the usual escapement become superfluous. Tourbillon Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2015.

The post WHERE MYSTERY MEETS MASTERY: A HIGH HOROLOGY COMPLICATION THAT DEFIES PERCEPTION AND REDEFINES ENGINEERING. appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

Blast was once again a symbiosis of avant-garde design and cutting-edge engineering, and it underscored Ulysse Nardin’s reputation as the creator of the unique and the inimitable. It was a bold, unconventional watch that channelled hundreds of years of watchmaking innovation and experimental design, with architecture that echoed the form of a stealth aircraft and an extreme skeletonised mechanical movement that married high function with a challenging aesthetic.

THE BLAST COLLECTION EXPLODED ONTO THE SCENE IN 2020, SINCE WHEN IT’S BECOME A SYMBOL OF ULYSSE NARDIN’S UNCONVENTIONAL, ENDLESSLY DISRUPTIVE APPROACH TO MECHANICAL WATCH DESIGN AND MOVEMENT CREATION

In keeping with Ulysse Nardin’s pioneering posture, the calibre was built using the advanced watchmaking principles found in silicon technology, introduced into the industry by Ulysse Nardin in 2001 with the Freak.

The new-age Blast teased the eye with the symmetry of a visible micro-rotor at 12 o’clock, a tourbillon at 6 o’clock, and the winding and setting mechanism at 3 o’clock. By integrating the calibre and the case design, it delivered the mystery and theatre for which Ulysse Nardin is known around the world. The Blast was a watch only the creator of the iconic, convention-busting Freak would have dared to conceive.

Now, Ulysse Nardin returns to the Blast with an exceptional eight-piece limited-edition invisibly set with rainbow-coloured sapphires. The Blast [Sparkling Rainbow] is an audacious design that draws on the company’s well of in-house watchmaking savoir-faire and celebrated relationship with métiers d’art and rare handcraftsmanship.

BLAST [ SPARKLING RAINBOW]

The new Blast lights up in a rainbow of invisibly set sapphires.
The new Blast [Sparkling Rainbow] is a limited edition of eight watches that takes the Blast’s uncompromising form and elevates it with a dazzling array of coloured  sapphires to create one of the most spectacular watches ever to emerge from Ulysse Nardin’s Le Locle Manufacture. It is decorated with 211 coloured sapphires invisibly set into the case, bezel, crown, dial and clasp, totalling 13.33 carats. Together, these stones transform the Blast, so that as well as being an avantgarde design and technical tour de force, the Blast [Sparkling Rainbow] also becomes a high-jewellery masterpiece.

The watch behind this extraordinary work of art is a 45 mm white gold version of the Blast on an integrated white rubber strap. It features Ulysse Nardin’s independent  integrated UN-172 manufacture skeleton movement, a self-winding flying tourbillon with a platinum micro-rotor (visible at 12 o’clock), a silicon escapement and  hairspring, and a 72-hour power reserve.

METIERS D’ART : MYSTERY SETTING
In keeping with Ulysse Nardin’s perpetual pursuit of excellence, the Blast [Sparkling Rainbow]’s sapphires were rigorously selected to ensure that each stone would merge  seamlessly into the next with sublime insouciance, creating a graceful but spectacular gradient rainbow effect that runs through 360 degrees around the watch’s case, bezel, crown and dial.

The result is so effective that the journey through the rainbow colour spectrum becomes almost imperceptible. What appears simple and natural is realised only through a  painstaking, highly disciplined search for the right stones.

Throughout, the stones appear to be set randomly, a look achieved by using 85 different, unique cuts. Furthermore, each stone is invisibly set by hand into the watch, using a rare métier d’art technique known as “mystery setting” that requires a special cut to create the magical impression that the sapphires are floating. The stones are held in  place from below by a hidden structure so that no white gold is visible from above. At the same time, the setting allows more light to pass through the stones so that the  watch shines and shimmers with beguiling brilliance.

The technique behind this tantalising decoration requires extreme precision and is mastered by only a handful of supremely talented and highly experienced artisans. Even then, the process is so delicate that each watch takes at least four weeks to decorate.

The Blast [Sparkling Rainbow] becomes a further illustration of Ulysse Nardin’s deep savoir-faire and love of traditional handcraftsmanship. And as with many watches that came before, it continues the company’s watchmaking narrative: haute horlogerie with a contemporary twist.

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THE STATE OF THE ART • MÉTIERS D’ART

Le Locle, Switzerland [4th June 2025]. In watchmaking, progress is achieved through the fusion of the future and the past. True innovation goes beyond mere advancement; it emerges when cutting-edge technology intersects with timehonoured craftsmanship and tradition.

The new FREAK [X GOLD ENAMEL] embodies Ulysse Nardin’s mastery of this space, pairing the revolutionary mechanisms of the Freak superwatch with the classic finery of a rare métier d’art. Combined, the timepiece is a celebration of unconventional design, pioneering technology, and unmatched Swiss craftsmanship.

THE STATE OF THE ART

THE ICONIC FREAK
Launched in 2001, Ulysse Nardin’s Freak redefined the boundaries of haute horlogerie. Originally a codename coined
by then-owner Rolf W. Schnyder, the name “Freak” perfectly captured the watch’s bold spirit through its groundbreaking
design and mechanics. With no hands, no dial and no crown, the original Freak replaced the crown with a time setting system integrated into the bezel and wound via a mechanism in the case back. The Freak introduced revolutionary innovations, most notably pioneering the use of silicon in watchmaking, valued for its exceptional durability, lightness, and resistance to magnetism. This material transformed the industry and remains central to the Freak’s technical excellence.

Over two decades, and with more than 20 patents, the Freak has become an icon among collectors, representing Ulysse
Nardin’s relentless pursuit of innovation. In 2023, the Freak One was awarded the Iconic Watch Prize at the prestigious
Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

In 2019, Ulysse Nardin expanded the Freak collection with the introduction of the Freak X, designed as a more accessible
iteration. The Freak X features a slimmer profile and a smaller case, making it suitable for everyday wear while preserving
the core spirit and innovations that define the collection. A key evolution was the addition of a crown for winding and
time adjustments.

THE STATE OF THE ART

A STATEMENT PIECE
The Freak X builds on the same principles as the original Freak. The entire movement rotates to indicate time: hours
are shown by a pointer on a rotating disc, while the movement itself completes a full revolution every hour to mark the minutes.

This complication, known as a flying carousel, is unique in that the movement is held without an upper bridge, seemingly
“flying” above the hour disc, creating a mesmerising visual and mechanical show.

It features a rose gold-colored minute bridge and hour markers treated with white Super-LumiNova® for optimal legibility. The 43 mm case in blue PVD titanium, is enhanced by rose gold side parts, creating a bold and elegant contrast. Offering a 72-hour power reserve, the timepiece is paired with a blue alligator strap detailed with rose gold stitches and a blue titanium and rose gold folding buckle.

The Freak [X Gold Enamel] stands out with a striking Guilloché- Flinqué rotating disc with a sunray pattern, enhanced with multiple layers of blue enamel, amplifying the rotational path of the iconic flying carrousel. This highly exclusive edition is limited to just 120 pieces.

MÉTIERS D’ART

THE ART OF ENAMELLING
Among the rare decorative techniques preserved by Ulysse Nardin, enamelling holds a very special place. This ancient art — practiced for over 3,000 years by civilizations such as those of Egypt, China, and the Roman Empire—became associated with watchmaking in the 17th century. Renowned for its rich, vibrant palette, enamelling offers colors of unmatched depth that do not fade over time, unlike traditional surface treatments. Today, it remains one of the most intricate métiers d’art in watchmaking, mastered by only a handful of workshops worldwide, including Donzé Cadrans, Ulysse Nardin’s dedicated enamelling atelier.

DONZÉ CADRANS:

PERPETUATING HERITAGE
To ensure the continuity of this expertise, Ulysse Nardin began collaborating with Donzé Cadrans in the 1980s and acquired the workshop in 2011. Established in 1972 in Le Locle – just a few streets from the Ulysse Nardin Manufacture – by master enameller Francis Donzé, the atelier has become a reference in the field, mastering traditional techniques such as Grand Feu, Cloisonné, Champlevé, and Guilloché-Flinqué. With an annual production capacity of approximately 1’200 dials, the workshop not only supplies Ulysse Nardin but also serves other prestigious watchmakers and institutions seeking restoration of historical pieces.

SKILLS FORGED IN TIME
The enamellers of Donzé Cadrans are among the most experienced in the industry. The workshop employs eight artisans, several of whom have dedicated over three decades to perfecting their skills. It takes a minimum of five years to acquire the fundamentals of enamelling, and continuous learning is essential to reach the level of excellence required.

Each dial is the result of accumulated expertise and meticulous handcraft, embodying both artistic sensitivity and technical discipline. Enamel fabrication is an extremely responsive process that can never be industrialised. The instincts and sensitivities required of the craft cannot be replicated by a programme or machine.

THE ART OF THE PROCESS

While Donzé Cadrans is renowned for crafting static enamel dials, the rotating disc of the Freak X presents a significantly
greater technical challenge. Unlike traditional dials, the hour disc is an integral part of the movement itself—a functional and mobile mechanical component that incorporates multiple screw fittings. These elements add complexity to the enamelling process, demanding exceptional precision and technical expertise. Moreover, the disc’s material is carefully selected: 22-carat rose gold (917 gold and 83 copper), chosen for its exceptional thermal stability. This unique composition enables the plate to withstand the extreme temperatures required during kiln firing, a crucial step in the enamelling process. Finally, the disc is stamped with a subtle sunray pattern that enhances the visual effect of the Freak X’s iconic rotating carousel.

The enamelling process begins with the washing and grinding of raw solid compounds into a fine powder using a traditional mortar and pestle. This meticulous step ensures the perfect consistency and color tone for the blue enamel applied to the rotating disc. Blue dials are emblematic of Ulysse Nardin’s maritime heritage, and the artisans at Donzé Cadrans continually develop new shades tailored to each timepiece. Finding the right blend of pigments is part experimentation, requiring deep knowledge of chemical reactivity and color theory.

Water is then added to form a pigment paste, which is carefully applied to the plate and fired at around 800°C. After cooling and cleaning, three to four additional layers are applied and fired, each enhancing depth, intensity and radiance of the hue. Once complete, the disc is manually polished—a delicate operation that takes up to an hour to achieve.

Every step in the kiln carries the risk of imperfections such as bubbling or cracking, often requiring the process to be restarted. It is a demanding discipline that calls for patience, precision, and remarkable technical skill—making enamel
one of the most challenging materials to master in haute horlogerie. Each rotating disc of the Freak [X Gold Enamel], part of a limited edition of 120 pieces, is crafted one after the other, with each requiring a full day’s work—approximately eight hours—to complete. The result is a truly one-of-a-kind creation, where no two discs are exactly alike. Each piece bears its own depth and tone —its own unique soul and timeless color.

The post FREAK[ X GOLD ENAMEL] appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

The 30-piece limited-edition Freak X Enamel Seddiqi marries métiers d’art techniques with st ate-of-the-art watchmaking, and celebrates the partnership between elite Swiss watchmaker Ulysse Nardin and Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the Middle East ’s leading luxury watch retailer.

Ulysse Nardin, the independent Swiss watch maison that has been disrupting haute horlogerie since 1846, is delighted to introduce the new Freak X Enamel Seddiqi, a watch that celebrates shared cultures, traditions and artist ic passions that sp an continents.

The Freak X Enamel Seddiqi is based on the design and movement properties of a 21st century watchmaking icon, Ulysse Nardin’s Freak, which rewrote the horological rulebook when it was introduced in 2001 by pioneering the use of silicon technology in watchmaking.

The exclusive new watch builds on the timeless st ory of the Freak’s ‘no hands and no dial’ movement architect ure, and tells it afresh with an exquisite guilloché and enamelled hour disc that highlights Ulysse Nardin’s mast ery of métiers d’art.

Coloured in “Yas Blue” enamel to echo the piercing elect ric blue of the evening sky as the sun sets over the waters of the Gulf of Arabia, the Freak X Enamel Seddiqi’s hour disc is the work of very skilled artisans at Ulysse Nardin’s Donzé Cadrans Manufact ure in Le Locle and the result of a complex, painst aking process.

First , the gold guilloché hour disc has a texture that gives the watch an additional visual dimension, resulting in a geometric patt ern that gives it a balanced, modern feel. Then Ulysse Nardin’s enamellers add four layers of water-based enamel to it. The enamel begins as a solid, which is then broken down with a pest le and mortar into a fi ne powder, before it is transformed into a past e with water. Between each layer, the disc is fi red at temperatures of 800 degrees Celsius and then cooled.

Cooling takes just one minute. A fi nal, crucial layer of translucent “fondant” enamel gives the disc surface a glossy fi nish that will be immediately recognisable to métiers d’art connoisseurs.

For the enamellers, there’s jeopardy in every layer. The disc will be fi red at least fi ve times and the kiln is merciless: each time, the risk is that the enamel will bubble and sp oil, at which point, the process must st art again.

This tension is one of the reasons skilled enamellers are such a rare breed, and why only the very fi nest watches carry enamel decorations.

Sitt ing on top of this mesmerising hour disc is Caliber UN-230 Manufact ure, an automatic with a 72-hour power reserve. The Freak’s signature carousel fl ying tourbillon features an oversize oscillator and a silicon escapement, and doubles as the watch’s minutes hand, making a full tour of the dial every 60 minutes.

A pointer on the hour disc shows the hour against fl oating baton hour markers.

The watch is cased in 43 mm of grey titanium and comes on a black rubber “ballist ic” st rap with white st itching and a titanium folding buckle. Due to the technical and artisanal complexity of this beautiful horological object , only 30 pieces will be made, and they will only be available through Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the United Arab Emirates’ largest and most pioneering luxury watch and jewellery retailer.

A FREAK EVENT

BACKSTORY

In the spring of 2001, Ulysse Nardin changed the course of watchmaking history forever with the introduction of the revolutionary Freak. To look at, the first Freak posed lots of questions. It had no dial, no hands and no crown, and yet it was unmistakably a mechanical watch. How was this possible? Did it really work? And how did it work? No one had ever seen anything like it. Because there had never been anything like it before.

But that was only the start of the story. Because beyond its unique appearance and function, it was powered by a gamechanging movement that contained a high-tech new watchmaking material: silicon.

Silicon was watchmaking wonderstuff. Conspicuous in its silvery blue, it brought myriad benefits to a mechanical watch. It was lightweight, elastic, almost completely frictionless, and highly resistant to magnetism, shocks and changes in temperature. On top of this, it could also be produced in unusual shapes and to fine tolerances. It was the perfect material for creating high-tech, ultra-modern mechanical watch components.

Indeed, mechanical watches with silicon parts, it was quickly established, would be more precise, more accurate and more reliable. This made the Freak a line-in-the-sand watch. And it meant a new chapter in watchmaking had begun, almost three centuries after the last.

A FREAK EVENT

The Freak took its name from the maverick, disruptive, rulebreaking spirit that spawned it and quickly became known for its daring aesthetic, unconventional functionality and wild technical innovation. In time, it would become a flagship for Ulysse Nardin, and a new icon for Swiss watchmaking, recognised all over the world and revered by collectors. There’s still nothing quite like the Freak.

Its influence would spread far and wide. Seeing the advanced properties of silicon platformed by the Freak, countless others would explore its potential so that almost a quarter of a century later, it has become a familiar watchmaking material. But the Freak was first.

Meanwhile, Ulysse Nardin continued to pioneer the use of silicon, and the Freak design. Today, the Freak catalogue is ripe with challenging expressions of the original concept, each new model release acting as a punctuation mark in the story of mechanical watchmaking. Such has been its impact that The New York Times pronounced that the Freak had “changed the face of contemporary watchmaking”.

The Freak One leads the contemporary line, winning the prestigious

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève’s Iconic Watch Prize in 2023.
The Freak S continues to inspire awe and wonder with a threedimensional movement that rests under the glass like a spaceship preparing for intergalactic adventures. And the Freak X, with the gently ironic addition of a crown, has become the so-called “daily Freak”.

But no matter how much time passes and no matter what form it takes, the Freak remains a radical. An iconoclast. The watch that changed watchmaking forever.

ANATOMY OF A FREAK

NO DIAL

What might look like a dial isn’t a dial. The Freak’s “no dial” DNA means the movement’s components sit direct ly under the glass inst ead. What the Freak does have is an hour disc that makes a full rotation twice a day to indicate the hour. Here, the disc is decorated with traditional guilloché and enamel, fusing traditional métiers d’art techniques and st ate-of-the-art mechanics together.

NO HANDS
The unconventional Freak X doesn’t have conventional hands. Inst ead, its one-hour orbital carousel tourbillon act s as the minute hand, while the hour hand is indicated by a pointer on a rotating disc that sits under the movement.

SILICON
One of the Freak’s signatures is the use of silicon in place of traditional metals for some of the movement’s moving parts. When Ulysse Nardin pioneered silicon in 2001, it was a horological revelation. Today, the company continues to pioneer silicon for components such as the Freak X’s oversized oscillator and escapement because of its lightweight, elast ic, frict ionless and highly resist ant properties.

WAVES OF ENAMEL
The Freak X Enamel Seddiqi’s hour disc is decorated using two decorative techniques, guillochage and enamelling, both of which require rare artisanal skills and techniques to accomplish. In this unique watch, the guilloché wave patt ern is enamelled in an elect ric crepuscular “Yas Blue”, insp ired by the mesmerising evening light of the Middle East .

SUPPORT CASE
Wrapping the Freak X’s unique movement architect ure and hand-fi nished métiers d’art hour disc is a 43 mm grey titanium case with a matching bezel and winding crown. The watch is set on a black rubber “ballist ic” st rap and water-resist ant to 50 metres.

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25TH ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION

Ulysse Nardin partners with Gumball 3000 to commemorate 25 years of the iconic supercar rally.

SHARED VALUES
A perfect alignment of both brands’ ethos—mavericks, pushing boundaries, and breaking conventions.

EXCLUSIVE LIMITED EDITION
The Freak X Gumball 3000 Edition is limited to just 150 pieces, customisation available for each Gumball driver to match their team number

AVAILABLE FIRST TO DRIVERS
The timepiece will be offered exclusively to Gumball 3000 participants first before wider inquiries are accepted.

PIONEERING DESIGN AND TECHNOLOGY
The Freak X watch embodies Ulysse Nardin’s audacious approach to high horology with its deconstructed movement, bold forged Carbonium case, and striking Gumball 3000 orange detailing finished with iconic Gumball 3000 display case back.

PIONEERS AND DREAMERS COLLIDE

Le Locle, Switzerland & London, UK – [12/09/2024] – In a collaboration that shatters convention, Ulysse Nardin, the award-winning Swiss watch manufacture behind the Freak and the mavericks behind Gumball 3000 are coming together to mark the 25th anniversary of the world’s most rock-and-roll rally. Introducing the Freak X Gumball 3000 Limited Edition—a watch for the bold and the brave.

This limited-edition watch will be produced in just 150 pieces, with each Gumball 3000 driver having the option to personalise theirs with a dedication plate featuring their specific team number, celebrating the 25th  anniversary of the rally.

GUMBALL 3000: A 25-YEAR ODE TO THE MAVERICKS

Since 1999, Maximillion Cooper has led a convoy of mavericks on a 3,000-mile odyssey that transcends speed and style. Gumball 3000 isn’t about the destination—it’s about the ride, the challenges, and the stories created along the way. For 25 years, the eccentric endurance event has attracted an eclectic mix of visionaries: sheikhs, rockstars, artists, and entrepreneurs, all united by a shared lust for adrenaline and adventure.

The 2024 edition roars through Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and Malaysia before culminating in the electric atmosphere of Singapore’s F1 Grand Prix. This year’s route takes participants from the backroads of Saigon to the  bustling streets of Bangkok, blending chaos, luxury, and adventure at every turn—a theme Gumball has pioneered for 25 unforgettable years.

Maximillian Cooper, Founder of Gumball 3000, stated: “Celebrating 25 years of Gumball 3000 is a huge milestone, and partnering with Ulysse Nardin to create something truly special felt like the perfect way to mark it. Each  driver will have the opportunity to customize their Freak X watch to match their team number, making it a tribute to the spirit of individuality and adventure that defines our rally. Just like Gumball, the Freak X breaks the mold—it’s bold, unconventional, and engineered for those who aren’t afraid to push boundaries.”

ULYSSE NARDIN: 178 YEARS OF WILD HOROLOGICAL INVENTIONS

Since 1846, Ulysse Nardin has been rewriting the rulebook on watchmaking. Amongst its wildest creations is the Freak that epitomizes the impact of Ulysse Nardin on modern high horology. Launched in 2001, the Freak shocked the watchmaking world in the way it defied and reconfigured centuries-old norms, fomenting a revolution on three fronts — design, mechanical and material.

With no hands, no dial, no crown, its design was revolutionary: it was the first wristwatch wherein mechanics and aesthetics were virtually indistinguishable and where movement design was an extreme exercise in aesthetics. The Freak was aptly named as it bore little resemblance to anything ever worn on the wrist. It was a watch whose primary purpose was to convey an emotional or an artistic expression of time.

The Freak also initiated a mechanical revolution as it marked the first instance that a movement was deconstructed to express time on its own and, in so doing, achieved a totally new, mechanics-celebratory language of watchmaking that will come to inform much of what contemporary watchmaking embodies today.

The Freak pioneered maverick technologies that now define 21st century mechanical watchmaking. It was the first watch to incorporate silicon parts, thereby ushering in the age of silicon in watchmaking.

The award-winner Freak is a symbol for every rule breaker and iconoclast, for any individual who rejects the status quo, blazes their path to the top and, despite innumerable challenges, aims to succeed with their integrity intact.

“Gumball 3000 and Ulysse Nardin share a mutual passion for challenging conventions in the pursuit of the wildest adventures whether on the road of life or in the art of telling time. For the 25th anniversary, we wanted to create something as daring and uniqueastherally itself.TheFreak X Gumball 3000istheperfect embodiment of this spirit – it is our way of celebrating the individuality and adventure that makes Gumball 3000 so legendary.”  stated Matthieu Haverlan, Managing Director at Ulysse Nardin.

FREAK [X GUMBALL 3000] LIMITED EDITION

The special edition watch, limited to just 150 pieces, is a striking fusion of cutting-edge high horology and Gumball’s unmistakable rebellious energy. The watch features a bold, personalised display case-back etched with the iconic Gumball 3000 logo, a lightweight forged Carbonium case, and iridescent Gumball orange Super-LumiNova on the hour markers – completed with vivid Delugs® orange rubber strap.

AVAILABILITY: A TIMEPIECE FOR TRAILBLAZERS

Each watch will initially be offered exclusively to drivers of Gumball 3000’s 25th anniversary rally this September, providing Gumballers an opportunity to immortalise their once in a lifetime memories with a timepiece that matches the team number of their rally car. Further enquires are now being taken on the Freak X GB3K website. With only 150 pieces available worldwide this edition is set to be one of Ulysse Nardin’s most exclusive and sought-after releases.

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Introduced in 2020 as a concept watch, the Diver NET diving  watch was swiftly brought to market, thus attesting Ulysse Nardin’s innovative spirit while embodying a fundamental mission dear to the Maison: sustainability.  Collaborating with high-tech start-ups and environmental advocates, the brand has invested its expertise into finding new innovative materials and technologies to raise awareness about environmental responsibility.

Continuing on this journey, this year, Ulysse Nardin introduces two ultra-dynamic creations with a trendy and sporty-chic style: the Diver Net OPS and the Diver X Skeleton OPS, as in “operations.” Following the launch of two  Freak Ops in 2023, these new edgy models enrich the brand’s “Ops” capsule collection and celebrate its indomitable in-house watchmaking, while adding an adventurous twist to the Diver lineage.

DIVER [NET OPS]

The Diver Net OPS is a high-performance timepiece that stands as the most sustainable sports watch with a manufacture movement on the market. With water resistance down to 300 metres, it’s powered by the automatic  manufacture calibre UN-118, featuring a 60-hour power reserve and a balance spring in silicon, a cuttingedge material first introduced by Ulysse Nardin in 2001. In addition, the escapement is coated in DiamonSil, a patented  ultra-high tech form of diamond-coated silicon that delivers exceptional precision and durability.

The original case is made from a 95% recycled stainless steel and its construction features a combination of breakthrough materials that Ulysse Nardin has been pioneering. The side parts and the caseback are composed of  Nylo® (60%) and Carbonium® (40%). Nylo is a polyamide formed from upcycled fishing nets, while Carbonium® is a cutting-edge material with exceptional strength-to-lightness properties that is produced using the same  carbon fibres found in state-of-the-art aircraft wings and fuselages. In fact, Carbonium® is made using offcuts from the aircraft manufacturing process, reducing its environmental impact by 40% compared to other carbon  composites. In addition, this unique material provides a marbling effect to the unidirectional rotating bezel.

The dial, featuring a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock and small seconds display at 6 o’clock, is in sandblasted khaki green, embossed with a large satin finished X. Against this background, Super-Luminova® markings in  beige give a green glow in low light. The adventurous style is complemented further by a fabric strap also in khaki green, itself partly made from upcycled fishing nets, or a khaki green rubber strap with a black ceramic “Ulysse  Nardin” element at 6 o’clock.

DIVER [X SKELETON OPS]

The audacious Diver X Skeleton OPS is an avant-garde reimagining of a dive watch as a piece of haute horlogerie. Water resistant to 200 metres, the 44 mm Diver X Skeleton OPS features the brand’s exceptional skeletonised automatic movement UN-372, showcasing an oversized oscillator and an escapement in silicon.

Carbonium® is once again the star of the show: not just in the concave unidirectional rotating bezel, but also on the barrel cover at 12 o’clock, extending the mottled aesthetic into the heart of the watch. The ultra-modern  design is confirmed by the huge skeleton X structure that dominates the dial, and the sleek case construction in high-tech, lightweight titanium, given a black DLC coating. Once again, both the audacious visual style and sustainable approach are rounded out in a khaki green fabric strap, partly made from upcycled fishing nets.

The post ULYSSE NARDIN’S TWO-WATCH CAPSULE COMBINES THE THRILL OF ADVENTURE, THE QUEST FOR INNOVATION AND THE COMMITMENT TO SUSTAINABILITY. appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

THE ORIGINAL FREAK BLEW IN FROM NOWHERE. MORE THAN TWO DECADES ON, THE WINDS OF CHANGE IT WHIPPED UP CONTINUE TO SHAPE FINE WATCHMAKING.

Looking around fine watchmaking today, connoisseurs have never had it so good. Creativity, innovation, imagination: Swiss watchmaking’s wild side is unleashed.

In 2001, when the Ulysse Nardin Freak was introduced, the landscape was somewhat drier. This was a watch that broke all the rules. Not only did it not have conventional hands, nor a dial, nor even a crown, its beating heart was built around the use of high-tech silicon, a cutting-edge material employed to combat the stresses placed on a watch’s moving parts. Everything about the Freak was daring, groundbreaking and, frankly, freaky.

This, no mistake, was a risk. Mechanical watchmaking was just back on its feet after three misfiring decades, but would this Freak, this extraordinary creation, this horological anomaly actually get a good hearing? Would anyone go for it?

Indeed, they would.

The Freak whipped up a storm. Here was a watch that breathed new life into high-end watchmaking, without relying on the old tropes. Out with the smooth round yellow gold cases, enamel dials and tourbillons. In with a free-spirited watch with fresh aesthetics and avant-garde technology. The Freak told a new story:

No dial. No hands. No crown.

In the two decades since, the Freak’s unconventional profile has made it the Ulysse Nardin flagship. A rule-breaking totem for an independent company hellbent on creative and mechanical experimentation. Since 2001, the Manufacture has filed more than 20 patents for the Freak and only last year, the Freak One was awarded the Iconic Watch Prize at the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

In the meantime, silicon parts have become an industry norm. And watchmakers have experimented with forms that few would have dreamed possible before the Freak. Where the Freak went, others followed.

At Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024, Ulysse Nardin’s focus falls on the Freak S Nomad, a sand-coloured expression of the Freak that whips up a desert storm all of its own. Again it has no dial, no hands and no crown. In fact, it’s a laboratory on the wrist, more of which to come.

The Freak S Nomad proves one thing. There’s still nothing quite like the Freak.

THE FREAK [S NOMAD]

THE FREAK TAKES OFF

At Watches and Wonders Geneva this year, the independent and integrated Manufacture Ulysse Nardin introduces the next chapter in the story of the Freak, the unconventional and yet traditional Freak S Nomad, reflecting the brand’s independent spirit and its quest to explore new territories by pushing boundaries.

The new 99-piece limited edition watch is defined by its unique movement, which at first glance carries echoes of a fantastical spaceship.

That look comes from the architecture of the Freak S’s Calibre UN- 251 Manufacture movement, a flying carousel that rotates around its own axis. It features two oscillators with silicon balance wheels inclined at 20 degrees (that look like launch pads) and escapements treated with high-tech DIAMonSIL for added precision and durability. These are linked by a vertical differential system mounted on ball bearings. Winding is taken care of by Ulysse Nardin’s innovative Grinder® winding system, an automatic system that’s twice as efficient as a traditional automatic system.

The movement’s bridges are coated in anthracite PVD, while what becomes the minute hand is filled with luminous Super-LumiNova® that glows light blue in the dark. In all, there are 373 components and 33 jewels in the movement.

Surrounding that is a 45mm case that brings together an experimental mix of materials: titanium for the main body; an anthracite PVD- coated titanium bezel; and carbon fibre flanks that also serve as the watch’s lugs. These meet a choice of two straps: one anthracite rubber ‘ballistic’; and a second in matt anthracite alligator that’s open-worked to reveal sand-colored calfskin leather accents.

So far, so unconventional. But traditional? And so on to the hour disk…

TURNING IT UP

THE FREAK S NOMAD’S DIAMOND GUILLOCHÉ HOUR DISC IS AN ARTISANAL HAND-CRAFTED WONDER

The Freak S Nomad is a design and technical maverick, no doubt. But it’s also a paradox. Because at the same time, it also testifies to Ulysse Nardin’s deep love of haute horlogerie, métiers d’art and the rare handcrafts and finishing techniques that define only the most exquisite luxury watches. No element in the Freak S Nomad better illustrates this passion than the hour disc that sits behind the carousel ‘spaceship’ movement.

It features a diamond guilloché pattern finished in sand-coloured CVD, a nod to waving sand dunes. Produced one piece at a time by a skilled artisan, the painstaking method behind it takes years to learn and perfect. It involves a rare 18th century rose engine, turned entirely by hand, with no electronics and no laser guidance.

Each dial is a beautiful sequence of intersecting curves, requiring 240 continuous movements over a three-hour period. Because the pattern is the result of one continuous movement, the guillocheur must not lift their hand or even flinch so as to ensure the seamlessness of the pattern. No comfort breaks. No time for coffee. It requires a freakish level of concentration, skill and patience.

Why undertake this by hand? For three reasons. First, because of the romance and beauty in hand-craftsmanship. As machines become smarter, faster and more detached, so they become less emotional, and so the value of hand-craftsmanship becomes more eternal. Second is that because there are no machines involved, there are no vibrations, which makes the finish smoother and more accurate. And finally, because each plate is crafted by hand, no two are exactly the same.

The juxtaposition of this ultra-traditional finishing technique with the Freak S Nomad’s state-of-the-art movement and avant garde material mix is the perfect symbol of Ulysse Nardin’s uncommon watchmaking approach: at once pure and rooted in the savoir-faire of high-end Swiss watchmaking and yet also in brave pursuit of absolute novelty and innovation.

As the Freak S Nomad explains: Ulysse Nardin’s spirit of exploration knows no boundaries.

SPECIAL FREAK-TURES

NO DIAL

As a rule, mechanical watch movements are hidden under a dial. The Freak S Nomad has no dial, though. Instead, Calibre UN-251 Manufacture is revealed in all its three-dimensional glory under a sapphire crystal.

NO HANDS

Likewise, most analogue watches have hour and minutes hands to display the time. The Freak S Nomad indicates the minutes via a pointer set into the one-hour orbital flying carousel (part of the movement), and the hours via a pointer set on a rotating hour disc that sits under the movement.

NO CROWN

The Freak’s base architecture does away with a crown. Instead, the bezel serves as the mechanism for setting the watch. It is activated when the locker at 6 o’clock is lifted, releasing the setting system.

MICRO-MECHANICAL MARVEL

The Freak S Nomad’s innovative movement is a work of modern horological art. It features a double oscillator with silicon balance wheels and escapements coated in DIAMonSIL, an ultra-high tech form of diamond-coated silicon that delivers exceptional precision and durability. These are linked by a vertical differential to deliver superior timekeeping accuracy. The Ulysse Nardin-patented Grinder® automatic winding system generates power two times more efficiently than conventional winding systems, charging a 72-hour power reserve.

MATERIAL ADVANTAGE

The Freak S Nomad has a lightweight titanium case and locker, as well as an anthracite PVD- coated titanium bezel. Its flanks are in carbon fibre, which are shaped to become the watch’s lugs.

SPIN THAT DISC

The rotating hour disc behind the Freak S Nomad’s flying carousel is hand-finished with an elegant diamond guilloché pattern and coated with a sand-coloured CVD. This is turned on an 18th-century rose engine powered by the hand of an artisan and takes three uninterrupted hours of painstaking, highly-skilled labour to produce.

LIGHT FANTASTIC

The hour and minute indicators are coated in a Super-LumiNova® that glows blue in low-light conditions.

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When it was introduced in 2001, the Freak did more than simply shift expectations of Ulysse Nardin watches: it created a new paradigm in Swiss fine watchmaking.

Mechanical watches coming out of Switzerland at the time had hands that showed the time, a dial for them to sit on, and a crown set into the case flank to adjust them. But the Freak had none of these. With no dial, no hands and no crown, it re-set the industry’s mindset. Could unconventional watch design, backed by huge advances in mechanical movement creation, catch the eye of 21st century watch buyers?
You bet it could.

In the two decades since the Freak first appeared, it’s become a cornerstone of high-end contemporary watchmaking. Technologies it pioneered, chiefly in the use of high-tech silicon to mitigate the stresses placed on some of the watch’s moving parts, have defined industry norms. It may have sat outside the Swiss watchmaking comfort zone back then, but where the Freak went, everyone else followed.

Those early models have turned into collector favourites, while further iterations have amped up the story, often by elevating the Freak’s technical capabilities, sometimes just for the thrill of stretching its boundary-less aesthetic.
Among them, and as its name suggests, the Freak ONE has remained the centre point for the collection. The Freak’s Freak. No dial. No hands. No crown. It epitomises the independent, free-spirited thinking that has always defined the Freak, and Ulysse Nardin.

At Dubai Watch Week, Ulysse Nardin continues the Freak’s story with the Freak ONE OPS – as in “operations”, a khaki and black watch that convey an adventurous inspiration. As before, it’s backed by cutting-edge technology developed in Ulysse Nardin’s independent integrated manufacture, only now with a casual look.

For over twenty years since it breathed into life, there’s still nothing quite like the Freak.

FREAK [ONE OPS]
THE FREAK ONE GETS THE CAMOUFLAGE TREATMENT

For Dubai Watch Week, Ulysse Nardin has created the Freak ONE OPS, a Freak ONE, but with a twist. The new piece measures 44mm in diameter and is cased in black DLC titanium, complemented by a khaki green palette that characterizes the special sunray-patterned barrel cover and the watch’s integrated rubber strap pairing.

The material story continues in the bezel, which is made of Carbonium®, an innovative material with exceptional strength-to-lightness properties that’s produced using the same carbon fibres found in state-of-the-art aircraft wings and fuselages. In fact, Carbonium® is made using offcuts from the aircraft manufacturing process, reducing its environmental impact by 40 per cent compared to other carbon composites. The manufacturing technique is organic, meaning the marbled finish found in the Freak ONE OPS’s bezel is unique to each watch.

Given the watch has no dial, the Freak ONE OPS’s calibre UN-240 Manufacture movement is clearly visible, its flying carousel simultaneously relaying the minutes indication as it rotates on its own axis. Also on display are the oversized oscillator and balance spring, both in captivating blue silicon, recalling the existential role silicon has played in the Freak’s unconventional legacy. The movement is automatic and carries a weighty 90-hour power reserve.

There’s a choice of two integrated straps: one in black and khaki “ballistic” rubber, and an alternate two-tone rubber strap, also in black and khaki. Both have black DLC titanium and black ceramic folding clasps. The straps tell Ulysse Nardin’s environmental story, too. They’re made using 30 per cent recycled rubber from production waste.

The result is a bold, muscular piece that amplifies the Freak’s story of daring design and in-house technical know-how.

SPECIAL FREAK-TURES
THE FREAK [ONE OPS] IS NO ORDINARY WATCH

NO DIAL
Typically, mechanical watches hide their workings under a dial. But the Freak ONE OPS has no dial. Its movement doubles as its minute hand, while the hour hand is a pointer set on a rotating disc that sits under the movement.

NO HANDS
The unconventional Freak ONE OPS has neither a big hand nor a little hand. Instead, its one-hour orbital carousel tourbillon becomes the minute hand, and the hour hand is replaced by a pointer on a rotating disc.

MATERIAL ADVANTAGE
The Freak ONE OPS has a black DLC titanium case, topped with a bezel made of Carbonium®, a material first used in fine watchmaking by Ulysse Nardin in 2019. It’s produced under very high pressure and at very high temperatures using carbon fibre offcuts from the aviation industry, meaning its environmental impact is 40 per cent lower than other carbon composites. The fibres measure just 7µm and are weaved together in an organic fashion to create a unique finish every time.

HANDS DOWN
The Freak ONE OPS is powered by UN-240, a self-winding movement with a 90-hour power reserve. The movement’s flying carousel with its silicon balance wheel and escapement are suspended by a bridge that acts as the minute hand; a second bridge serves as the hour hand.

SEE THE LIGHT
The hour and minute indicators and hour markers are coated in a beige Super-LumiNova® that glows green in low-light conditions.

THE ORIGINAL FREAK, A FREAK EVENT

THE FREAK’S ARRIVAL 20 YEARS AGO WAS TONIC
FOR ULYSSE NARDIN [AND SWISS WATCHMAKING]

By the late 1990s, Swiss watchmaking’s revival was well under way. A number of Swiss entrepreneurs had seized on a fresh cultural air du temps that had a newfound respect for the industry’s heritage and quality, and begun the process of rebuilding a sector that in the 1970s and 1980s had been laid to waste by the onslaught of quartz technology from outside the country’s borders.

One of the visionaries who saw the undimmed potential in mechanical watches was Rolf Schnyder. Mr Schnyder wanted to take Ulysse Nardin’s legacy and reputation for inventive contemporary wristwatches and revitalise it for new-generation watch lovers.

But to do that, he would need a watch that would epitomise and extend the new energy in Swiss watchmaking – and the amped-up ambitions of Ulysse Nardin. What was called for was an upstart design that would shake up a dozy establishment and captivate a new generation of mechanical watch buyers.

Behind the scenes, Mr Schnyder was working with genius watchmaker Dr Ludwig Oechslin on a new kind of watch. It would have no dial, no hands and no crown. Only one name seemed to fit: Freak.

Its launch in 2001 was revolutionary. Not only were the design and engineering groundbreaking (the time was set by rotating the bezel and it was wound via a device set into the case back), the Freak was also the first Swiss watch with an escapement made of a new watchmaking wonder stuff: silicon. Silicon was light and elastic, frictionless, had high resistance properties, and could be produced to very fine tolerances. Today, the use of silicon in watchmaking is commonplace, but at the turn of the Millennium, it was revolutionary. The Freak went first.

And others followed. Over the past two decades, the Freak has appeared in many further guises and also been used as a testbed for experimental advanced technologies. But at heart it remains what it always was: a freak.

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