Shifting high horology into the realms of authentic Japanese history, Roger Dubuis unveils Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy  a timepiece rich in samurai culture and refined Métiers d’Art.

UNITY AROUND THE TABLE
This new creation takes its inspiration from the 17th century, at a perilous time when Japan stood divided by relentless warfare. In a fractured land, rival warlords fought for supremacy with unrelenting ambition.

A resolution, however, was soon to emerge under the impulse of three notable leaders. By uniting the country’s bushō (samurai commanders), the leaders established a new path and political order for Japan. Through their vision and determination, unification, peace, and prosperity flourished in the country for over 250 years, with Edo Castle sitting at the symbolic heart of a reformed society.

In conceiving this timepiece, Roger Dubuis echoes that circle of solidarity – the very moment that Japanese conflict was transformed into lasting harmony.

THE EMBLEMATIC KABUTO
Within Japan’s changing world, the country’s united bushō were each represented by their individual Kabuto – a ceremonial and protective helmet that served as a statement of their lineage, philosophy, and aspirations.

Importantly, the Kabuto is also a depiction of meticulous craftsmanship – the essential thread that connects this story with the high watchmaking of Roger Dubuis. The Maison has therefore begun its homage to this epic Japanese tale by reinterpreting the Kabuto of twelve influential bushō on the dial.

Through precise Métiers d’Art, the micro-sculpted Kabuto are faithfully recreated in 18K pink gold, revealing unique symbolism and intricate hand-engraved detail.

Each one takes 2 to 3 days of skilled work, while the most delicate elements to craft are the ornaments at the front of the Kabuto, which stand as the iconic and visible signatures of the bushō.

DEPICTING THE SAMURAI

UNITY AROUND THE TABLE THE EMBLEMATIC KABUTO DEPICTING THE SAMURAI EDO CASTLE
CALIBRE INGENUITY FINAL WORDS TIMEPIECE CARD APPENDIX

The circle begins at 12 o’clock with the shōgun, Tokugawa Ieyasu, one of the leading architects of the unified Japan, whose Kabuto has a fern to exemplify success and longevity.

The legendary samurai commanders who fought on behalf of Tokugawa Ieyasu came to be known as the Four Heavenly Kings of the Tokugawa. They each take their place around the table of this dial, and include:

Honda Tadakatsu at 1 o’clock, a commander renowned for his loyalty to Tokugawa, and whose integrity established the country’s moral standard for generations. His iconic Kabuto reveals deer antlers as a source of divine protection.

Sakai Tadatsugu at 2 o’clock, an elder statesman of renowned wisdom and battlefield prowess, who helped establish the foundations of Tokugawa governance. His Kabuto represents the pinnacle of the craft, with a sword shaped front to symbolize righteousness and the cutting away of evil.

Sakakibara Yasumasa at 4 o’clock, who was known for his sound judgement. His sword-decorated Kabuto represents strong martial virtue and the samurai’s soul, along with the idea of cutting through deception to reveal truth.

At 9 o’clock is Ii Naomasa, a diplomatically brilliant commander. His Kabuto symbolizes bravery, with towering tenshō extending from each side.

EDO CASTLE
At the centre of the dial, Roger Dubuis has interpreted the architecture of Edo Castle. Through abstract and contemporary language, the towering fortress appears with a deep blue coating, inspired by the indigo dye that was originally used for samurai garments, and later on, the artistic expression of Japanese art and textiles. The layered construction features decorative finishing on every facet, including polishing and bright polishing as well as circular brushing and shot-blasting to showcase the castle’s façade.

UNITY AROUND THE TABLE THE EMBLEMATIC KABUTO DEPICTING THE SAMURAI EDO CASTLE
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CALIBRE INGENUITY
Limited to a collection of 28 exclusive pieces, these 45 mm watches are made in 18K pink gold and feature a crown surrounded by a blue enamel ring. They are worn on a blue calf-skin leather strap, distinctively crafted with stitched tiles to resemble the armour of a samurai. Tributes to the twelve bushō continue on the caseback, where their twelve crests are laser-engraved on a blue-coated pink gold ring, covered by a sapphire glass to show an elaborate rotor.

It is thanks to the RD821 calibre that the daring expressivity of this watch is made possible. The automatic movement allows space to stage the compelling aesthetics. With 60 hours of power reserve and 14 different finishing techniques, this in-house calibre is certified by the Poinçon de Genève.

UNITY AROUND THE TABLE THE EMBLEMATIC KABUTO DEPICTING THE SAMURAI EDO CASTLE
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FINAL WORDS
To bring historical accuracy and authenticity to the creation of this watch, Roger Dubuis worked alongside Frederik Cryns, Professor of Japanese History and Consultant on the Emmy-winning TV series, Shōgun. His expertise allowed the design to come to life in the most genuine way.

He says, “Samurai culture produced some of the most extraordinary wearable art in human history. That this tradition of master craftsmanship now meets the art of haute horlogerie feels entirely fitting. Both disciplines demand the same uncompromising pursuit of excellence.”

The post LEGENDARY SAMURAI COMMANDERS ASSEMBLE AS ROGER DUBUIS INTRODUCES EXCALIBUR THE KABUTO LEGACY appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

– A modern revival coming in a limited edition of 28 pieces, made in-house with both original and remanufactured components, meeting the Poinçon de Geneve standard.

– A meaningful and layered aesthetic expression, with Mr. Roger Dubuis’ favourite Biretrograde display.

In a limited series of 28 timepieces, the new Hommage La Placide takes the wearer on a 30-year journey, with authentic components and inspiration from the past, brought to life today through a modern Roger Dubuis lens. An important 30th anniversary creation that celebrates the legacy of this Geneva Maison and its revered founder.

Inside each model, the Calibre 1472 is a testament to Roger Dubuis both then and now. Combining original and remanufactured components in the same movement, it celebrates history and the present-day through technical savoir-faire and layered aesthetics.

This dedicated series echoes the Excalibur Monobalancier Biretrograde Calendar recently launched at Watches and Wonders Geneva, giving watch aficionados and collectors two biretrograde creations that have a rich connection to the Maison’s heritage.

Hommage Inspiration
Launched in 1996, the original ‘Hommage’ was Mr. Roger Dubuis’ tribute to the talented watchmakers, teachers, and friends who had influenced his career. Those who had guided him throughout  his life and provided the inspiration to create his own path.

When conceptualizing this new series, the manufacture returned to that story, borrowing the idea for a new tribute to Mr. Roger Dubuis himself. It combines his favourite Perpetual Calendar complication with Biretrograde display, while honouring his passion for restoration and expressive aesthetics.

The name “La Placide” includes a reference to Mr. Roger Dubuis’ “Placide” nickname, which he received during his childhood days as a scout, and which he carried throughout his life and career. A
perfect reflection of his calm and gentle spirit, and the quiet wisdom he brought to the industry.

RD14: The Base Calibre
Roger Dubuis began this new watchmaking journey by reintroducing the original RD14 calibres – the Maison’s very first in-house automatic movement, which was debuted in 2004. One by one,  the calibres were given an extensive check-up, undergoing quality control tests and full diagnostics to make each one like new.

Notably in design, these RD14 calibres include the swan neck regulator – a respected feature due to its traditional nature and more decorated finish. It’s a piece that offers better shock-resistance  and a more precise setting.

The calibres also use original Roger Dubuis balance springs. These have a special place within the Maison’s heritage, because their in-house production in the early 2000s enabled Roger Dubuis to receive the title of an official manufacture.

One significant improvement to the calibre for greater performance is the repositioning of all the axes of the wheels, following a complete recalculation of the gear train.

RD72: Adding the Perpetual Calendar
The restored RD14 base calibres were then coupled with the RD72 module – which was first used in 1999 and is notable for its Perpetual Calendar complication, a favourite of Mr. Roger Dubuis that combines day, date, month, leap year, and moonphase displays.

For this project, the Maison had to remanufacture the main plate, large bridge, and 50% of the components, such as levers, springs, wheels, and pinions. All of this work was carried out in-house, highlighting the expertise of Roger Dubuis’ integrated manufacture today.

It also reveals a smooth month and leap year conception, whereby two star-shaped wheels are combined, one with 12 teeth and another with 48 teeth. This allows the month and leap year to be displayed on the same counter, with two co-axial hands.

RD1472: A Modern Revival
This is only the second time that the RD14 and RD72 have been combined. Their return together results in the Hommage 1472 calibre that sits at the heart of the new series.

With a newly made rotor in 18K pink gold, the entire movement is constructed with 307 components and is distinguished by 15 decoration techniques, including wheel-bevelling, toolbevelling,  rounding, circular graining, snailing, Geneva stripes, mirror polishing, teeth polishing, tip polishing, perlage, truing, internal drawing, external drawing, frosting, and burnishing.

The Poinçon de Geneve certification was a mark of excellence for Mr. Roger Dubuis when creating his timepieces, and it has remained an important feature of the Maison’s watchmaking through to today.

The criteria of the certification, however, has evolved over the years, and is now somewhat different to the demands for the original RD14 and RD72. The latest standards, put into effect in 2012,  are largely related to chronometry, with tests now performed on the entire timepiece, rather than just the calibre.

Therefore, when crafting the RD1472, the artisans particularly focused on the setting of the calibre, ensuring it could meet the modern Poinçon de Geneve requirements. Movement setting has historically been very important within horology workshops, and this detail further highlights the virtuosity of Roger Dubuis craftsmen today.

The Layered Dial
The dial of the Hommage La Placide tells its own story of complexity. Firstly, it highlights Mr. Roger Dubuis’ beloved Biretrograde display, whereby the calendar’s hands move gracefully along the semi-circle scales, and at the end of their cycle, return immediately to zero to begin their journey again. Just like their original Roger Dubuis appearance in 1995, the scales are wide on the outside, and narrow towards the centre, giving them a unique sense of ellipsis.

Layered dials are characteristic of Roger Dubuis singularity and this timepiece illustrates that approach through five different layers, each revealing their own expressive decoration.

▪ The flange is circular brushed with a rhodium coating. It includes transferred numerals and a minute track, along with polished angles for extra radiance.
▪ Mother-of-pearl is then used to create the calendar segments, with transferred texts and handbevelled sides.
▪ The main plate is produced in a colour known as “Leman Blue”, a tribute to Lake Geneva, which Mr. Roger Dubuis viewed each day as a watchmaking student on the train journey between Geneva and Vevey. It is lacquered to obtain a deeper hue and features applied hour markers, with transferred text and lunar month information.
▪ The counters are also made in mother-of-pearl, with a broader circular brushed finish and transferred texts.
▪ Finally, there is also a moonphase layer, made with a blue aventurine base and curved 18K yellow gold moons.

This 38 mm timepiece is crafted with an 18K pink gold case and is fixed to a blue interchangeable leather strap featuring an original Roger Dubuis emblem on the buckle.

Both the Hommage La Placide and the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar, launched on this 30th Anniversary, celebrate Mr. Roger Dubuis’ vision and work as a master watchmaker. Inspired by the  past, they celebrate the biretrograde display, renowned to our Maison, and today’s expressivity.

Honouring Original Owners
As a sign of gratitude to coincide with this launch, all existing Hommage owners will be welcomed to visit any Roger Dubuis monobrand boutique around the world to receive a complimentary  Hommage strap to fit their original timepiece.

The post ROGER DUBUIS PRESENTS A MODERN REVIVAL: HOMMAGE LA PLACIDE A LIMITED SERIES appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

Returning to the pages of Arthurian legend, Roger Dubuis conjures its next horological tribute to the Knights of the Round Table. Inspired by folklore and crafted with watchmaking magic, this light-filled timepiece delivers the second chapter in “The Tale of Merlin”, a quest that gallantly began in 2024.

Introducing the Excalibur Knights of the Round Table, The Enchanter Merlin.

The Journey So Far

Since 2013, the Knights of the Round Table collection has been a hallmark of Roger Dubuis’ expressive fine watchmaking. Each episode has stirred curiosity, while representing the values of courage and chivalry through technical innovation and meticulous attention to detail.

In 2024, the series turned its attention to the revered wizard Merlin, the founder of the Knights of the Round Table order, and a central figure in the legacy of King Arthur himself. The first chapter, “Merlin the Omniscient,” stepped out to the edge of the world, exploring Merlin’s fabled connection to the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland, from where he lifted the hexagonal blocks to build Stonehenge in honour of Arthur’s ancestor, the great King Pendragon.

Roger Dubuis brought this tale to life through a distinctive and complex dial made from 56 towering columns, including 28 made of genuine basalt. While telling its own compelling story, the design also set the stage for this second chapter, which continues the patterned dial effect in new form.

The New Chapter

This second chapter plays into the deep love that Merlin held for the Lady of the Lake. To keep her protected and secure, it is said that he used his enchanting power to build her a glittering crystal palace, situated on a lake that was surrounded by beautiful gardens.

The illusion of the lake was so perfect, the palace appeared invisible to all prying eyes, making it impossible to find unless guided by the fairy. Another example of Merlin’s powerful ability to play with materials and transform them through magic.

Within the palace sanctuary, the Lady of the Lake was kept safe from harm. For Roger Dubuis, this story represents the power of devotion and honours those who will go to any length possible to protect the ones they love.

Creating a Mystical Dial

As an ode to Merlin’s crystal palace, the face of the new watch echoes the hexagonal patterns of the first chapter timepiece, but now with reflective new materials and dedicated techniques.

Each dial is constructed from a base plate of 18K pink gold, which has been precisely machined to produce a table of holes and hexagonal sections. The watchmakers have then set 56 columns into those spaces, including 9 in Murano-style glass, 19 in polished white enamel, 10 in matte white enamel, 9 in rhodium-plated gold, and 9 in polished 18K pink gold. Furthermore, these components are arranged in heights that vary from 0.2mm to 3.7mm, establishing a dramatic landscape of contrasts and intrigue.

The Invisibility Setting
The 9 columns in rhodium-plated gold also feature a hexagonal diamond placed at the top. This masculine cut is a rare sight in diamond craftsmanship. Instead of being rounded at the bottom, the entire gemstone has been shaped, ensuring that its distinctive edges are visible from every angle, and that its reflections are maximized to full effect. For the first time, Roger Dubuis has also used an “invisibility setting”, whereby each diamond is clipped into hidden grooves at the top of the gold. This ensures a seamless transition, and an almost illusionary appearance.

At the base of the dial, the Maison has introduced a layer of sparkling ruthenium crystals. As part of the rare platinum family, ruthenium is renowned for its high lustre and silvery-white glow. The crystallization of the metal is a complex art, highlighting Roger Dubuis’ knowledge of materials, and the Maison’s ability to create original and compelling effects on the wrist. Acting like a fine diamond powder, the pure ruthenium crystals give the appearance of a glistening still lake, connecting the dial to the heart of Merlin’s story.

12 Vigilant Knights

Emphasizing the theme of protection, 12 Arthurian knights are positioned around the dial, watching over the Lady of the Lake. They stand in front of a white flange made from Murano-style glass. The flange itself is an elaborate construction of two parts and features the Roger Dubuis name and indexes in 18K pink gold.

Each knight marks his hour with a unique pose and presence. Rather than a static display, this is a scene captured in motion, where swords are raised, armour is fastened, and the character of each hero its etched into metal.

Creating the knights is a detailed process. It begins with elaborate sketches and meticulously sculpted resin prototypes, each built to exact proportions. These are transformed through 3D scanning, then molded and cast in 18K Pink Gold, producing each individual 6mm-tall figure.

The final step is in the hands of the master engravers, who patiently devote two to three days to each knight, carving the thinnest blades, etching the finest helmet lines, and bestowing every detail with personality. A touch of black patina softens the sheen, enhancing contrast and revealing the textures and depth within each miniature.

Roger Dubuis ensures that its knights can be viewed from all angles by placing a sapphire window beneath the bezel. By doing this, wearers can appreciate the detail of the craftsmanship and the play of shadows that the columns produce.

The Certified Calibre

At its heart, the timepiece is driven by the automatic Monobalancier RD821 calibre, crafted entirely in-house at the Maison’s integrated manufacture. Comprising 172 assembled components, the RD821 boasts a compact design that leaves enough space for the knights who stand above. The calibre showcases 14 distinctive types of hand-finishing across its components, an essential criterion for earning the prestigious Poinçon de Genève certification.

Around the calibre, the 45 mm case is crafted in 18K pink gold. It features a crown protector shaped like the guard of a sword, symbolising the legendary blade being pulled from the stone by Arthur to signal his destiny as true king.

When turning the watch over and looking through the caseback, the 360° oscillating weight evokes the intricate stained-glass windows of medieval castles, with its arms made in rhodium plated 18K pink gold. Despite being smaller and lighter than traditional rotors, it retains a dependable performance, proving that Roger Dubuis is able to balance expressive aesthetics and uncompromising function through its skeletonized designs.

The Exclusivity of a Collection

Those who choose the Excalibur Knights of the Round Table, The Enchanter Merlin, will be joining an exclusive fellowship of Roger Dubuis owners. Only 28 of these watches will be produced, making ownership a rare privilege for fans of fine watchmaking.

The watch is worn on a white leather strap with a Quick Release system and features the same enduring quote on the caseback that has been engraved on every model since 2013:

“Around this table, the bravest knights will gather as equals. They will set forth in search of adventure, righting wrongs, protecting the weak and humbling the proud.”

These words have always signified the sense of togetherness that is felt between Excalibur Knights of the Round Tables owners, who share a bonded passion for legendary tales.

The post KNIGHTS OF THE ROUND TABLE: THE ENCHANTER MERLIN appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

Roger Dubuis, however, is approaching this iconic complication from a high horology perspective, showcasing the traditions of fine watchmaking, while transforming many of the components through the Maison’s own expressive style.

Introducing the new Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph. Continuing a Legacy
The chronograph has an authentic place within Roger Dubuis’ DNA.

At the beginning of his career, Mr. Roger Dubuis worked for nine years in a Swiss Maison where he exclusively worked on chronograph movements. There, he acquired know-how and expertise, but also love for the complication. Naturally, when he started his namesake company in 1995, the chronograph was part of the very first watches he created.

That same complication has remained a symbolic and integral part of Roger Dubuis’ watchmaking ever since then, and after 30 years of evolution, the journey has culminated in this fifth chronograph generation, first released in 2023.

RD780: A Traditional Chronograph Movement

As an integrated movement, the entire calibre has been designed to both tell and measure time – a complete development approach that gives the watchmaker more scope for creativity and allows them to play with the aesthetics.

One of the historically iconic features of the calibre is the column wheel – prominently on display for the wearer at 6 o’clock. A revered component in high horology, and a mechanical hallmark, the column wheel not only improves the visual aspect of the watch, but also enhances the feel of the pushers, making their operation more fluid and responsive. It is also responsible for managing the chronograph’s start, stop, and reset functions, making it vital to the timepiece’s performance.

In this calibre, the column wheel is intricately machined from stainless steel and is finished with a poli zinc decoration – a demanding technique that creates a high shine, and is usually reserved for components that have an unusual shape.

The vertical clutch, too, is a mechanism that connects to tradition, while ensuring performance. It is also a very similar system that is used in cars to change gears.

Patented Innovations

Located at 3 o’clock, the 120° Rotating Minute Counter (RMC) is a theatrical feature crafted in an isotoxal shape. This counter showcases a patent-pending display that bears the digits 0, 1, and 2. As its tripartite hands rotates, it moves gracefully past the 0–9 digits on the right, with oversized red numerals ensuring easy readability. Once the chronograph is activated, the RMC puts on a dynamic and engaging visual performance.

The second innovation of interest is the patent-pending Second Braking System (SBS), which is included in the movement’s vertical clutch mechanism. It adds significant stability to the chronograph seconds hand and reduces its flickering.

Expressivity Throughout

At 9 o’clock, Roger Dubuis has placed one of its emblematic components. The tilted balance wheel is set at a 12° angle, providing ideal visibility for the wearer, while also delivering the same inertia as a tourbillon. Its performance is enhanced by diamond-coated silicon escapement components, which provide anti-magnetic properties for lasting precision.

For impact on the wrist, the timepiece is crafted with a 45 mm skeletonized case in 18K pink gold and features skeletonized pushers. Its warm tones are contrasted by a black rubber strap, which is equipped with a Quick Release system.

Yet it’s the symmetrical dial of the watch that truly draws the wearer into the magic of the aesthetics. Almost like a living display, it reveals different moving parts all working in seamless harmony. And the more you look, the more layers are revealed, with distinctive surfaces and different heights all contributing to the expressive geometry.

Connecting the watch with the chronograph’s motorsport DNA, the rotor on the caseback has been shaped with five arms, like the rims of a supercar’s wheel, which are further accentuated with the signature sharp lines of Roger Dubuis.

88 Limited Edition

Only 88 of these timepieces will be made available, a reference to the lucky number of Mr. Roger Dubuis. This same number appears highlighted on the watch’s tachymeter scale – adding a subtle but meaningful difference within the design.

As well as offering 72 hours of power reserve, the watch meets the standard of the prestigious Poinçon de Genève. To achieve the mark, the Maison has meticulously decorated all 333 components using a total of 16 distinct finishing techniques.

Striking the ultimate balance between sportiness and high horology, the Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph is a watch for wearers on the move. Those who embrace an active lifestyle, yet who also demand an infusion of elegance and excellence within their style.

The post An Expression of High Horology: The Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

On their latest celestial voyage, Roger Dubuis and Dr. Woo combine forces to launch the 3rd episode in their Excalibur watchmaking odyssey. This time, the journey goes on a galactic peace mission, finding inspiration in the unimaginable depths of space, and transporting the Maison and the iconic tattoo artist to a new dimension of innovation and creativity.
Introducing the Excalibur Monotourbillon Dr. Woo Episode III.

Having developed his own distinctive single needle style, Dr. Woo has elevated the art of tattooing with complexity and sophistication. This has made the partnership with Roger Dubuis all the more authentic. Both sides share a passion for expressivity and both have earned a reputation for design exploration, where traditions are reinterpreted through modern techniques and signature aesthetics.

By working closely together once again, this next collaborative timepiece delves further into realms of decorative originality and reveals a showcase of mechanical excellence.

“I love that Roger Dubuis does watchmaking in its own way. That flair for individuality is how I approach my own work and it’s where we find common ground.” – Dr. Woo

The Journey So Far
The original collaboration between Roger Dubuis and Dr. Woo began in 2021. Taking off on a philosophical space flight, the tattoo artist brought his famous talents to the surfaces of the Excalibur Monotourbillon, fostering the message that “time is our most valuable asset.”

In 2023, the cosmic expression continued through a new Excalibur Monobalancier, cased in ceramic and detailed with a stunning interpretation of the sun, Earth, and moon. At its heart, this watch contemplated the way that time moves in our galaxy.

Through each creation, Dr. Woo’s recognizable style has been clearly evident, with several icons remaining constant in the designs. These have included his signature spider; his mysterious language of symbols; and the travelling rocket, whose trajectory follows the emblematic star shape of the Excalibur collection.

Yet again, in 2025, these three enduring elements are visible. Each one is presented alongside Dr. Woo’s unique single needle approach. Unlike the heavy lines and bright colours of traditional tattooing, his distinctive method reveals a minimalist and monochrome style, where flawless geometry is brought to life.

“I’m always inspired by discovery. In this new creation, we’re not only exploring the endless expanse of space, but also looking inward at our own artistic and watchmaking capabilities.” – Dr. Woo

Galactic Inspiration
For this third episode, Roger Dubuis and Dr. Woo travelled 31 million light years into space, finding inspiration in a distant realm known as the “Tourbillon Galaxy.” Also named Messier 51a, or the Whirlpool Galaxy, this spiralling formation was photographed by the James Webb Telescope in August 2023, revealing its striking arms that serve the important purpose of star-formation factories, creating clusters of new stars.

For the creative minds behind this new timepiece, there is a clear connection between the clockwise turn of the Tourbillon Galaxy and the way in which a tourbillon complication moves in its precise measurement of time, as well as with Roger Dubuis’ signature astral shape.

The Rocket Comes in Peace
The Dr. Woo rocket began its journey in the first timepiece in 2021. Now an essential mark of the Roger Dubuis collaboration, it appears again in this edition on the top surface of the watch’s sapphire crystal.

The meticulous craftsmanship begins with a 3D galvanic growth on the glass, followed by pink gold metallization of the rocket and its astral-shaped trails. Look closely, and you’ll also discover a poignant message, “We Come in Peace” written in the trails.

The discovery doesn’t end there. At 10 o’clock, the signature Dr. Woo spider is delicately placed, created from laser engraving and then filled with black ink – a subtle nod to the artist’s tattoo style.

Next to this, on the underside of the sapphire glass at 9 o’clock, three pink gold metallized nebulas appear. These illuminated clouds of gas and dust are where the timepiece continues its story – inviting the wearer into the “black hole” underneath.

Through the Corridors of Time
Indeed, the metallized nebulas are a starting point for discovery. To bring the wearer to the impressively distant Tourbillon Galaxy, the corridors of time must be crossed.

Between 10 and 11 o’clock, Roger Dubuis has placed a spiral-shaped component representing the entrance to a “black hole”. Made in stainless steel and treated with pink gold, the component is laser-engraved and creates a hypnotic effect.

Turn the watch over – and you can see where this “black hole” exits. Viewed from the caseback, the same component has been filled with black colouring and is surrounded by a large chequerboard spiral pattern, which radiates outwards on the sapphire crystal with selective metallization. It’s another expressive touch, conveying the immensity of space and time distortion.

Note also the meaningful wording that surrounds the caseback, destined for a faraway lifeform on the other side of space: “Let’s work together to uncover the mysteries of the cosmos and unlock the secrets of the universe. To whoever finds this message, know that we are seekers of knowledge and explorers of the unknown.”

A Tourbillon Transformed
The manufacture’s calibre RD515 features the revered tourbillon, a mechanism that highlights the horological expertise of Roger Dubuis. Signature details, such as a flying tourbillon positioned at 7 o’clock are seen in this movement. Yet, to make Dr. Woo’s wondrous vision a reality, Roger Dubuis’ watchmakers have slightly transformed its cage: while the lower cage remains in lightweight titanium, the upper bridge has been reduced to its most minimalistic shape (with just 3 arms) in order to welcome a spiral inspired by the Tourbillon Galaxy. This décor is specifically created in stainless steel, as it’s the best material for the complex shape, and also allows Roger Dubuis to perform its signature mirror polish to give the piece a gleaming finish.

Along with the 72 hours of power reserve, the calibre RD515 is certified by the Poinçon de Genève that evaluates not only the provenance and reliability, but also the quality of craftsmanship. Each one of the 193 components of the movement has been hand-decorated using 16 different types of remarkable finishing.

The Cosmos in Motion
At 1 o’clock, the complexities of space are expressed once more. The circular barrel cover has been given a matte-black background, with additional transfers in pink gold representing the planets, rings, and nebulae within a distant galaxy.
This striking pattern moves at the same rate as the barrel, evolving throughout the day to reveal the galaxy from different angles. This also occurs at a faster rate when winding the watch via the crown.

Bi-colour Materials and Mysteries
To frame all of the inspirational details within this Excalibur timepiece, Roger Dubuis has used the rare bi-colour combination of 18K pink gold and titanium. These materials are featured in the 42mm case, as well as the bracelet with its Quick Release System, offering the benefits of prestige, resilience, and light weight.

And to leave his final mark, Dr. Woo’s mysterious design language is laser-engraved around the bezel and the middle links of the bracelet. These symbols are open to interpretation, deepening the connection between the wearer and the artist.

Rarity on the Wrist
The Excalibur Monotourbillon Dr. Woo Episode III is a special example of what Roger Dubuis brings to the world of horology today. Not only a dynamic execution of high watchmaking, but also a theatrical delivery of storytelling and art.
With this timepiece, limited to just 28 pieces, transformed tourbillon mechanics are combined with the playful creativity of Dr. Woo – showing exactly what happens when two worlds of expressivity meet.

The post Dr. Woo x Roger Dubuis : Excalibur Monotourbillon Dr. Woo Episode III appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

Introducing the new Knights of the Round Table, the Omniscient Merlin. Continuing the Maison’s celebrated collection, this new chapter ventures back to the heart of Merlin’s immortal story, with a surprising dial that conjures up visions of a breath-taking landscape, watched over by a circle of chivalrous warriors.

This noble tale steps out to the edge of the world, to the Giant’s Causeway, a place where fantasy and reality seem almost inseparable. Here lies a mystical terrain, now reimagined through the craftsmanship and expressivity that Roger Dubuis is most famously known for.

In the Land of Giants
Our quest begins in the distant reaches of Northern Ireland, where crashing waves meet with a fractured Earth. According to some Arthurian legends, this dramatic coastline is where Merlin once stood. His eyes gazing along    the ancient Giant’s Causeway, and across its towering columns of interlocking volcanic basalt.

Standing in this misty land of giants, the wizard was instantly gripped by the Causeway’s power. Its hexagonal beauty rose from the sea and spread out with an awe-inspiring geometry and true sense of enchantment.
It is said that Merlin lifted the stones through magic and transported them to the Salisbury Plain in England, creating the circle now known as Stonehenge. This enigmatic ring of stone became Merlin’s lasting monument to the memory of Arthur’s uncle, the great King Pendragon. Merlin had once helped restore Pendragon to the throne, a critical moment in Arthurian legend, as it sparked the narrative that led to Arthur’s birth, and the ultimate quest for the Holy Grail.

Recreating Nature’s Magic
Now, in the echoes of myth and time – Merlin’s craft is reawakened. To summon this timepiece into creation, Roger Dubuis has retraced the wizard’s eminent path, tapping into the tangible magic that can still be felt today in the mystical Giant’s Causeway.

The post A Legend in the Making: Knights of the Round Table appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

Introducing the Excalibur Monotourbillon Blue Hour.

When the sun casts and diffuses a light from below the horizon, Roger Dubuis has found an inspiring gradient of colour that never ceases to amaze. When combined with a palette of advanced materials and signature tourbillon mechanics, it makes for a timepiece of true sophistication – produced by a watchmaker like no other.

It’s time to dim the skies, and raise the spotlight, on our new Monotourbillon that captures the enchanting atmosphere of the elusive blue hour, unveiling at Watches and Wonders Shanghai 2024.

Continuing the Spark

Invented over 200 years ago as a system compensating gravity, the tourbillon is one of watchmaking’s most respected and challenging complications. This year, Roger Dubuis celebrates the mechanism in all its forms, with as much mastery as expressivity.

The Maison’s founder, Mr Roger Dubuis, was a devotee of tourbillon design. As a Master Watchmaker, he not only saw the distinction of the tourbillon, but also the opportunities it created for adding other horological complications and dynamic aesthetics. In his eyes, the compact nature of the mechanism provided a playground for creative freedom and artistry.

Since 2003, the Maison has kept that philosophy in motion, producing in-house a comprehensive tourbillon evolution that continues to surprise.

An Emblematic Calibre

The Calibre RD512SQ, which drives the Excalibur Monotourbillon Blue Hour, is the purest symbol of the tourbillon craftsmanship that sets Roger Dubuis apart. Here, it is clear to see the Maison’s original approach to high watchmaking and design, distinguished by a variety of signature features.

What first strikes the eye is the large tourbillon cage. This feature allows to welcome a high inertia balance wheel that will contribute to the timepiece being more resistant to daily wear.

This same cage houses a Flying tourbillon: inherent within all Roger Dubuis tourbillons, the Flying construction is built from 63 components, with a lower cage in lightweight titanium and an upper cage inspired by the Celtic Cross. Only being mounted on one side, with no supporting bridge on top, gives the wearer an unobstructed view into the captivating aesthetics. It may be a more complex challenge of stability for the watchmakers, but the results are visually striking.

The next essential aspect is purity. Roger Dubuis tourbillons are as much about minimalism as they are about sophistication. By displaying the Monotourbillon within a skeletonized surrounding, complete with an astral signature, the Maison has combined exquisite function with uncluttered aesthetics. An accomplishment that is certainly never easy to realize, but is undoubtedly more striking to look at.

To further emphasize that skeletonized look, and to highlight the artistic skill that Roger Dubuis is renowned for, the watchmakers have used contrasting materials within the Calibre RD512SQ. An unconventional balance of silvery cobalt chrome on the upper cage of the tourbillon against pink gold on the flange and astral star, enables the wearer to fully get a sense of the exquisite framework that runs deep into the timepiece.

Along with 72 hours of power reserve, the Calibre RD512SQ is honoured with the Poinçon de Genève hallmark, which certifies not only the provenance and reliability, but also the quality of craftsmanship, whereby every component of the calibre has been decorated with 16 different types of hand-finishing.

A Journey of Gemstones

Following the launch of the Excalibur Sunrise Double Tourbillon earlier this year, Roger Dubuis now turns its attention to the other side of the day. While that first timepiece echoed the warm and radiant glow of the morning, this new Monotourbillon takes a deeper tone, with a colorful gradient of white diamonds and blue sapphires, on ode to the captivating sky, just after dusk, that reflects the famous “blue hour” of twilight.

To achieve that mesmerizing effect, 60 baguette-cut gemstones have been placed in gradient shades on the bezel, which is mounted on a 42mm 18K pink gold case. Creating an intense gradient of tones ranging from light to dark, the 10 white diamonds and 50 blue sapphires have been patiently and carefully selected to mirror the dazzling starlight and the nuances of the sky that we see above the Earth during the blue hour.

The Excalibur Monotourbillon Blue Hour features a white calf leather strap, equipped with a Quick Release System.

Artistic and Unconventional

Limited to 28 pieces, the Excalibur Monotourbillon Blue Hour makes its world début at Watches and Wonders Shanghai 2024. For those who adore radiant aesthetics inspired by the beauty of nature, as much as sublime engineering, this new timepiece is an unmissable highlight.

It takes pride of place within a collection of four new tourbillons from Roger Dubuis, also including The Orbis In Machina Central Monotourbillon, the Excalibur Double Tourbillon Cobalt Chrome, and the Excalibur Monotourbillon White Gold.

Each new creation stands as an homage to Roger Dubuis’ enduring tourbillon craftsmanship. Fuelled by expressivity and unexpected innovation, the Maison proves yet again how much it enjoys reinterpreting this historic complication in a modern way- in all its forms, and with all its many complexities.

The post Inspired by the Skies: The Excalibur Monotourbillon Blue Hour appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

Introducing the Excalibur Monotourbillon White Gold.

Since its very first tourbillon launched in 2003, this Geneva watchmaker has been perpetuating the finest tourbillon traditions with an injection of modern expressivity. This time, the masterful and emblematic mechanics are encased in one of the most precious materials.

The Tourbillon in all its Forms

Roger Dubuis’ tourbillon journey goes back to its founder, a Master Watchmaker who not only saw the honour in perfecting this famous complication, but who also saw the opportunity for more aesthetic expression. In the eyes of Mr. Roger Dubuis, the compact nature of the mechanism created a playground of extra space, where a watchmaker could truly make their own unique mark.

That belief has now been at the core of the Maison’s tourbillon design for over two decades. From the first flying Monotourbillon in 2003, through to the comprehensive line-up launched in 2024, which has showcased the tourbillon in all its forms, there has been non-stop artistry and innovation on display.

Distinctive Maison Style

For the Calibre RD512SQ, which powers the new Excalibur Monotourbillon White Gold and provides a 72 hours power reserve, Roger Dubuis has begun at the most demanding level. To make their tourbillon challenge just a little bit greater, the Maison only produces Flying Tourbillons. Unlike traditional versions, the Flying Tourbillon is only mounted on one side, with no supporting bridge on top. It’s certainly more beautiful to look at, yet far more difficult to create, because stability must be guaranteed.

The expansive size of the Roger Dubuis cage also shows a distinctive approach and highlights the Maison’s willingness to play with design. With a bigger engine and a high inertia, the larger mechanism is needed for increased energy transmission through the wheels and all the way to other potential functions in the watch. Naturally, this also delivers a distinctive sound, brought about by the high level of torque within the calibre.

Beyond its signature size, the placement of the tourbillon at 7 o’clock is another distinguishing mark of Roger Dubuis. Furthermore, the cage is built with ingenious materials: titanium for the lower cage -almost twice lighter than stainless steel and anti-magnetic- and Cobalt Chrome for the upper cage- also non-magnetic. This last component strikes in the movement as it takes a shine from its mirror polish hand-finishing and its Celtic cross shape, known to represent the qualities of strength and unity.

Encompassing all of the signature touches that Roger Dubuis brings to its Calibre RD512SQ is the iconic placement within a skeletonized movement. Since 2009, the Maison has been using skeletonization as a starting point of each design – rather than a consequence of it. This means that, even when carrying high complications like the tourbillon, the calibres are noticeable for their lightness and purity.

Poinçon de Genève Certified

Beauty and performance are often difficult to quantify. Yet by attaining the Poinçon de Genève certification, Roger Dubuis is able to guarantee the provenance and reliability of this timepiece, as well as its exquisite standard of aesthetics.

For the Maison’s founder, Mr Roger Dubuis, hand-finishing was always seen as a way to cherish and uphold the finest horological traditions. His desire for that skill to be recognized and certified led the Maison to its acquisition of the Poinçon de Genève mark since 1999.

Today, in keeping with the demands of this fine watchmaking signature, 16 different types of hand-finishing have been used to decorate the Calibre RD512SQ, guaranteeing that every visible component is pristine and visually stunning. This is also for the customer’s benefit. Being able to see the surprising aesthetics of Roger Dubuis’ craftsmanship through the skeletonization, and immerse themselves in that quality, is essential to the Hyper Horology™ experience.

The Purity of White

For this latest Monotourbillon release, purity is exemplified by a full blanketing of white colour. The 42mm 18K white gold case is a first for a Roger Dubuis Monotourbillon, and it again showcases the familiar hallmarks of the Maison’s design. Sharp lines, distinctive notches, and precise symmetry are all hallmarks of the Excalibur line, and here, they are shown through the brilliance and preciousness of a truly exceptional material.

These qualities are amplified further still by the addition of 60 round-cut diamonds, which are carefully selected and neatly placed around the watch’s bezel. A scintillating effect that provides the customer with yet more opulence and prestige on the wrist.

To complement the sublime craftsmanship of this timepiece, the bracelet is made in white calf-skin leather and is fitted with a Quick Release System for personal versatility.

The Simplicity of Complexity

Limited to 88 pieces, in tribute to Mr. Roger Dubuis’ lucky number 8, the Excalibur White Gold Monotourbillon is perfectly weighted between minimalist modernity and daring innovation. Framed by the luxury of white gold, it is a compelling example of this Swiss Maison’s characteristic approach to watchmaking.

This timepiece takes pride of place at Watches and Wonders Shanghai 2024 within a collection of four new tourbillons from Roger Dubuis, also including The Excalibur Monotourbillon Blue Hour, the Excalibur Double Tourbillon Cobalt Chrome, and the Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon.

Each new creation stands as an homage to Roger Dubuis’ enduring tourbillon craftsmanship. Fuelled by expressivity and unexpected innovation, the Maison yet again proves its passion for reinterpreting this historic complication – in all its forms, and with all its many complexities.

The post Emblematic of a Maison: The Excalibur Monotourbillon White Gold appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

Introducing the Excalibur Double Tourbillon Cobalt Chrome.

Built with a highly-resistant alloy, more often seen in cutting-edge industries, and driven by a challenging Double Tourbillon, this unveiling features Roger Dubuis’ exclusive Hyper Horology™ at its most powerful.

Twice the Complexity

The tourbillon, in all its forms, has been at the heart of Roger Dubuis for over 20 years. It is now considered a signature mechanism of the Maison – and one that has been constantly reinvented with unrelenting excellence.

Roger Dubuis’ first Double Tourbillon was released in 2005. Even then, the Geneva watchmaker was intent on doing things differently. With the Calibre RD01, Roger Dubuis linked two tourbillons with a regulating differential – a gear system that mitigates the effects of gravity by balancing the two tourbillons.

Adding this component to an already complicated mechanism is just one of the many challenges in Double Tourbillon creation. Further to this, more hours are required for fine-tuning and also for ensuring that each of the two mechanisms are aligned in terms of quality and reliability. Compared to a Monobalancier, a single tourbillon takes twice as long to adjust and assemble. For the Double Tourbillon – it’s around twice as long again.

In the new Excalibur timepiece, the two flying tourbillons are once again linked by a differential – but that’s only the first point of difficultly. To embrace twice the complexity, the watchmakers have also placed the tourbillons within a skeletonized framework.

For the wearer, this allows an unrestricted and breathtaking view into the manual- winding RD108SQ calibre, which is distinguished by 72 hours of power reserve– as well as its finely decorated surfaces and pure aesthetics. 17 different types of hand- finishing are used across the 319 components. A masterful standard of décor that requires technique, experience and patience. For Mr. Roger Dubuis, decorating the components of his movements was a way to perpetuate the art of traditional fine watchmaking, and by following the Poinçon de Genève criteria, it was also a way of ensuring the highest level of excellence. Besides artistry and technique, this independent certification also guarantees the provenance and reliability of the timepiece.

The Might of Cobalt Chrome

To protect a powerful calibre – you need a prestigious material. Going to the furthest reaches of technical proficiency, Roger Dubuis has turned to Cobalt Chrome.

Originally developed for the automotive, aeronautic, and aerospace industries, which are well-experienced in the need for reliability and resistance, this special alloy is fearless in the face of modern-day challenges. Along with its distinctive brightness and aesthetic advantage, Cobalt Chrome is more scratch-resistant than gold, highly corrosion-resistant, non-magnetic, and reliably strong for everyday wear.

Roger Dubuis has been incorporating Cobalt Chrome into its watchmaking since 2017, making it one of the Maison’s signature materials. In particular, the Geneva watchmaker uses this alloy for the upper bridge of its tourbillon cages, which not only offers a brilliant lustre, but also invaluable anti-magnetic properties.

For this new watch, the entire 45mm case is crafted in Cobalt Chrome. In production, the alloy is more technically known as Cobalt Chrome Cartech Micro- Melt® Biodur CCM™. A trademarked name that highlights its world-leading development, and the vast array of benefits it promises.

Colour Attributed to Nature

One final point of difference is the colour that Cobalt Chrome bestows. In nature, cobalt alone emits a natural blue colour. An energizing hue that has been admired since ancient times, with cobalt being used in multiple ways, from jewellery production through to paints and glass.

In tribute to that organic shade, Roger Dubuis has enveloped the skeletonized architecture of this watch in a distinctive blue colour, including the astral signature that is inherent within the Maison’s identity. It is a bold and powerful look, and one that is subsequently mirrored in the watch’s blue calf-skin leather strap, featuring the versatile Quick Release System.

The case is silvery-grey, which is how Cobalt Chrome arrives from the powder metallurgy process. This metal forming process is performed by heating compacted metal powders to just below their melting points. This allows for a complete homogeneity of the material – leaving impurity out – and making it noticeably brighter than stainless steel and titanium, radiating its own sheen that again helps it stand out from the crowd. Despite offering such numerous advantages, Cobalt Chrome still remains very rarely used in watchmaking.

Exclusivity in Blue

Limited to just 28 pieces, the Excalibur Double Tourbillon Cobalt is a symbol of modernity in fine watchmaking. Technical and refined all at the same time, it is the ultimate choice for those who appreciate flawless and mesmerizing style.

Making its world début at Watches and Wonders Shanghai 2024, it takes pride of place within a collection of four new tourbillons from Roger Dubuis, also including The Orbis In Machina Central Monotourbillon, the Excalibur Monotourbillon Blue Hour, and the Excalibur Monotourbillon White Gold.

Each new creation stands as an homage to Roger Dubuis’ enduring tourbillon craftsmanship. Fuelled by expressivity and unexpected innovation, the Maison yet again proves its passion for reinterpreting this historic complication – in all its forms, and with all its many complexities.

The post Striking Mechanics, Technical Materials: The Excalibur Double Tourbillon Cobalt Chrome appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

Introducing the new Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon.

This mesmerizing new Central Monotourbillon perfectly highlights the duality of Roger Dubuis – and its ability to cross the generations of watchmaking to strike the perfect balance between the past and the future.

Following the original Orbis in Machina launched earlier this year, this newest edition, decorated with rubies and diamonds, is unveiled at Watches and Wonders Shanghai 2024, standing vividly apart amongst the Maison’s extravagant line-up of tourbillon designs.

A Rarity in Watchmaking

Roger Dubuis’ fascination with the tourbillon goes back its founder, who not only saw the prestige in this legendary complication, but also the possibilities it presented. For Mr. Roger Dubuis, the compact nature of the tourbillon was a way to gain more space within a watch design, which could be used for adding further complications, or for adding more expressive aesthetics.

His vision has since guided the Maison on an impressive tourbillon journey, underscored by a variety of tourbillon creations in many different forms.

Today, that variety has naturally evolved to include the central placement of the tourbillon – a rare sight within watchmaking due to the number of challenges it poses.

Whether that is finding a different way to display the hands or redistributing the movement’s components around the tourbillon itself, Roger Dubuis has now firmly embraced the Central Monotourbillon and found its own novel ways around the complexity.

Ingenious Innovation

Rather than being deterred by the difficulty of the Central Monotourbillon, the Roger Dubuis watchmakers have taken an innovative approach, which has moved away from traditional horological theory, and led to two patent-pending systems that have revolutionized the Maison’s Central Tourbillon engineering.

These innovative solutions include the new “planetary system”, a specialised geartrain that has allowed the mechanism itself to be purified as well as compacted. This has firmly established a more refined look and gives more room to play with the surrounding aesthetics.

The second pending patent is the friction clutch release system that allows to release the hands in order to set the time. One of the challenges of having a Central Monotourbillon is the display of the time as the space normally used by the hands is occupied by the tourbillon’s cage. On this calibre, the hands are driven using ball bearings, while the friction clutch system, with the help of a clip, allows to safely disengage the hands so that the watch can be set with assured stability.

Orbis: the Circular Style

By conquering the central placement of the tourbillon, the stage has been set for a clean and ultra-modern décor, which radiates out across the face of the watch.

As opposed to the familiar sharp lines and angles we are used to seeing in a skeletonized Roger Dubuis tourbillon, this latest creation is one of the most fascinating milestones yet, as it embraces a circular form, with round lines and a hypnotic concentricity that distinguishes it within the Maison’s collection.

The sublime roundness of the Orbis in Machina starts at the middle, where the watchmakers have worked outwards, delivering a pure display of concentric circles in pink gold that indicate the seconds, minutes, and hours. A sublime reinterpretation of the Maison’s signature skeleton style.

Each circle is also set at a different height, creating a compelling multi-levelled décor that offers a glimpse of the skeletonised calibre beneath.

The name, Orbis in Machina, is indeed a nod to this circular orbit of the watch’s display, as well as the revolving nature of the tourbillon. A fusion of movement and mechanical ingenuity that brings the concept to life.

From Technicality to Artistry

Separating this edition of the Orbis in Machina to the original, the inclusion of diamonds and rubies gives this new watch its own distinctive sense of power, elegance, and remarkable sophistication.

Reflecting the eminent reputation of the Central Monotourbillon, the Maison has chosen to decorate the timepiece in 132 baguette-cut gems, not only for a statement of style, but also for an impression of high-level success and determination.

The embellishment includes 12 rubies and 48 diamonds on the dial, and a sparkling framework of 72 diamonds on the bezel. It’s a beautiful contrast of colour that helps to enhance the radiant warmth of the watch’s 45mm case in 18K pink gold, while also matching the red calf-skin leather strap with its Quick Release System.

A Caseback of Horological Excellence

Of course, the front of the Orbis in Machina is only half the story. In harmonious contrast to its modern face, the transparent sapphire crystal caseback acts as a window to the traditions and excellence of Geneva fine watchmaking.

Here, we most clearly see the duality that characterises Roger Dubuis. The caseback is an ode to classical high horology, demonstrated by expertise of the highest order.

Perhaps most noticeably, the selection bolt is inspired by the ancient “Ébauche” components of high horology, which derive from the early 20th century. This has allowed the watchmakers to place the winding and setting system at the bottom of the movement, creating more space above for the hour hand.

The artistry and hand finishing is almost baroque in its appearance, with elaborate detailing that feels rich and exclusive. Specific details to admire include the sliced bridges, and the rounder lines, which are very much rooted in classic Geneva haute horologie.

The reward for this dynamic approach is the Poinçon de Genève certification, one of the most demanding signatures in fine watchmaking. Along with provenance and reliability, it requires all visible surfaces of the movement to be hand-finished. Therefore, 19 specific finishing techniques are used on the 283 component of the Calibre RD115, including elegant perlage, Côte de Genève, and snailing.

Mastery on Display

Limited to just 8 pieces, this immaculate Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon celebrates exactly who Roger Dubuis is today. A watchmaker committed to traditional know-how, but with the modern creativity to push the boundaries further.

This timepiece takes pride of place at Watches and Wonders Shanghai 2024 within a collection of four new tourbillons from Roger Dubuis, also including The Excalibur Monotourbillon Blue Hour, the Excalibur Double Tourbillon Cobalt Chrome, and the Excalibur Monotourbillon White Gold.

Each new creation stands as an homage to Roger Dubuis’ enduring tourbillon craftsmanship. Fuelled by expressivity and unexpected innovation, the Maison yet again proves its passion for reinterpreting this historic complication – in all its forms, and with all its many complexities.

The post Two Sides of a Story: The Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

This has been the daring ambition within this Swiss manufacture since its inception in 1995. A unique approach fuelled by the dream of Mr. Roger Dubuis himself, who envisioned one-of-kind timepieces for his closest circle of friends. Still today, that drive for exclusivity lives on through the Maison’s bold invention of Hyper Horology™.

This year, the Roger Dubuis journey continues at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024 – where the Maison’s tourbillon artistry will be demonstrated like never before. To see exactly what sets Roger Dubuis apart, visitors can immerse themselves in not one, but four exciting new releases, each distinguished by complex tourbillon mechanics as well as breath-taking aesthetics.

Introducing the Orbis in Machina

Contrasts are revealed. Harmony is created. The new Orbis in Machina presents a dual perspective of Roger Dubuis’ iconic tourbillon craftsmanship. The astonishing creation embraces both heritage as well as modern engineering, emphasizing the duality of the design, and creating a visible link between watchmaking generations. The story is told from front to back and reveals the art of tradition matched by the cutting-edge architecture of today.

The name, Orbis in Machina, is a nod to the revolving nature of the tourbillon, and the circular orbit of the watch’s display. A fusion of movement and mechanical ingenuity that brings the concept to life.

Continuing the Central Tourbillon Calibre

Roger Dubuis has long been associated with tourbillon distinction, having developed its own line of in-house tourbillon movements over the course of more than 20 years.

The manual-winding Calibre RD115 marks the Maison’s latest significant milestone and is housed inside the Orbis In Machina watch. Built from 283 components and with 29 rubies, the Calibre RD115 is a Flying Tourbillon – just like all Roger Dubuis tourbillons made since 2003. More impressive to look at, yet much more complex to build.

For Mr. Roger Dubuis, the Maison’s founder, it was forever important to draw inspiration from the past and transform it into modern mechanisms. Here, that philosophy is dutifully continued with the watch’s selection bolt, which is inspired by the ancient “Ébauche” components of high horology. By doing so, it has allowed the watchmakers to place the winding and setting system at the bottom of the movement, liberating more space above for the hour hand.

Innovation also comes in the use of materials: to increase resistance to magnetic fields and keep perfect control of the weight, the lower tourbillon cage is in anti- magnetic titanium – twice lighter than stainless steel – while the upper tourbillon cage is in mirror-polished Cobalt Chrome, which is also non-magnetic and enables the weight of the tourbillon to be reduced by 16%. Finally, the power reserve is optimised to 72 hours.

Designed with a Difference

Within this latest creation, the central placement of the tourbillon has given the watchmakers a unique opportunity to play with the décor – and take their aesthetics in a different and more circular direction.

This is most evident in the watch’s round lines and deep volume. As opposed to the emblematic Roger Dubuis position at 7 o’clock, the flying tourbillon sits neatly at the centre, setting the stage for a beautiful concentricity. The mechanism itself has also been purified as well as compacted, thanks to a new patent-pending planetary system, not only creating more space, but firmly establishing an alternate look compared to other tourbillons of the past.

The Contemporary Face

The Central Monotourbillon is indeed a rare sight within watchmaking. In creation, it poses a number of challenges, such as finding a different way to display the hands, while also redistributing the movement’s components around the tourbillon itself.

Naturally, Roger Dubuis has embraced that challenge with both hands. From the front, this 45mm timepiece is therefore contemporary as well as captivating.

Starting at the middle, the designers have worked outwards, delivering an aesthetic purity through contrasting concentric circles in pink gold and grey that indicate the seconds, minutes, and hours. It’s an overall reinterpretation of the skeleton style, allowing the watchmakers to play with the space and glorify the tourbillon by placing it at the centre.

The 3D discs for the minutes and hours displays are particularly prominent and are contrasted by open-worked flying hands, mounted on ball bearings, that are double-sided and sharp. This particular display required the invention of a patent- pending system, which can safely disengage the hands and allow the watch to be set with assured stability.

A similar double-sided approach has been taken for the flange, which houses the hour indications on the outer perimeter.

Going one step further, the Maison’s watchmakers have set all of the circles at different heights, delivering a multi-levelled décor that draws the wearer in. While revealing a glimpse of the skeletonised calibre beneath, it once again shows the high level of modern workmanship at which Roger Dubuis is able to perform.

A Caseback of Horological Excellence

Roger Dubuis was one of the first watchmakers to systemize transparent casebacks on all watches within its collection. This created an unrestricted view into the Maison’s mechanical world and showcased the impeccable work that goes into every component. More to the point, it revealed the dedication to Poinçon de Genève certification, whereby the surfaces of every component within the calibre must be hand-decorated to the highest standard.

In the Orbis in Machina, the sapphire crystal acts as a window to the utmost excellence of Geneva fine watchmaking. In contrast to the front of the watch, the view through the back is based on detailed heritage, with a look that will instantly appeal to connoisseurs of high horology. Two opposing yet complementary sides that show the differentiation and duality that characterises Roger Dubuis.

The artistry and hand finishing through the caseback is almost baroque in its appearance, with elaborate detailing that feels rich and exclusive. Take note of specific details, such as the sliced bridges, and the rounder lines, which are very much rooted in classic Geneva haute horologie. 19 specific finishing techniques are used, including the elegant perlage, Côte de Genève, and snailing.

The ultimate reward for this dynamic skeletonized approach is the Poinçon de Genève certification, one of the most demanding signatures in fine watchmaking. Along with provenance and reliability, it sets the benchmark for quality as well as craftsmanship.

A Roger Dubuis Rarity

Crafted with an 18K pink gold case and bezel and presented on a black leather strap with a quick release system, the Orbis in Machina delights with both aesthetics and performance.

This is Roger Dubuis’ first Central Tourbillon timepiece launched within the main collection – and will be released in a series of only 88 editions.

For collectors and connoisseurs, this immaculate timepiece is perhaps the best expression of who Roger Dubuis is today. A watchmaker who embraces the know- how of the past – and then transforms it with modern creativity and innovation. It is indeed a watch of contrasts. The very same spirit that built the reputation of this entire Maison.

The Orbis in Machina is unveiled at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024, where Roger Dubuis’ unmistakeable Hyper Horology™ is waiting to be discovered inside a temple-like sanctuary, dedicated to the Maison’s pillars of watchmaking expertise. Visitors to the display can immerse themselves in the innovation and extravagance on show, while seeing this new timepiece amongst a quartet of new and impressive tourbillon releases.

The post A Creation of Contrasts: The Orbis in Machina appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

An emphatic moment to introduce the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon.

Just as the dragon is believed to rule the motions of water, Roger Dubuis has unleashed its own waves of watchmaking innovation, delivered through a design of emblematic freedom. From the aesthetics to the performance, this is a timepiece where expression takes over, and where the Maison’s unrestrained spirit is most beautifully brought to life.

Follow the dance, as we reveal complexity, artistry, and symbolism all in one Hyper Horology™ unveiling.

Awakening the Dragon

The Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon is a tribute to the Lunar New Year and encompasses the renowned Dragon traits of intelligence, charisma, and confidence. This has been achieved by depicting the fearless creature with an assured conceptual rhythm, leaving room for interpretation, and inviting the wearer to set their imagination free.

While the previous Excalibur Dragon released in 2020 delivered a true resemblance of the dragon’s mythical form, this new Monotourbillon takes a more abstract approach. After all, nothing in life is ever absolute!

With its usual commitment to excellence, Roger Dubuis has skilfully crafted the dragon using 27 individual pieces of brass – each embellished with black lacquer on the sides and a pink gold treatment on the polished top surface. In typically inventive style, the pieces are set on 25 different levels, producing a 3D vision that is full of volume and vitality.

Turn the watch over and the same flowing dragon appears – this time metallised on the inside of the caseback’s sapphire crystal. Precisely matching the view from the front, this stunning addition gives the dragon full power, no matter which side you are looking from.

A Calibre of Complexity

While the dragon reigns supreme in the aesthetics of this timepiece, Roger Dubuis has coupled the design with the authority of its Monotourbillon Calibre RD512SQ.

Invented in 1801 to compensate the effects of gravitational force, the tourbillon remains one of the most complex challenges in watchmaking. Still today, it is a true expression of horological art, with only a few skilled craftsmen able to build its intricate cage, containing the balance, spring, and escapement all inside.

As you might expect, Roger Dubuis has approached this famous mechanism in its own unique way – by displaying its signature monotourbillons within a skeletonized movement. Naturally, this makes the craftsmanship far more difficult to achieve, and requires dedicated skills that the Maison has sublimely mastered.

Even the way that Roger Dubuis makes skeletonized movements is more complicated than most. Since 2008, the Maison has been reinventing the craft by using skeletonization as a starting point of each design – rather than a consequence of it. This means that, even when carrying high complications like the tourbillon, the calibres are noticeable for their lightness and purity.

Reaching that result demands harmony across the entire integrated manufacture. All of the watchmakers and designers must work in perfect alignment, playing to each other’s strengths while understanding each other’s needs. It’s a balance of technical prowess and aesthetic excellence that requires coordinated teamwork in every detail.

Secondly, skeletonization also requires more time. To reduce the material inside the calibre, more hours of milling are needed, and more facetted surfaces are therefore produced, leading to even more hours for decoration. All this to give the watch its pure and uncluttered display – and to give the designers more freedom to play with the watch’s aesthetics.

Finally, it’s fascinating to note that Roger Dubuis only makes Flying Tourbillons. Unlike traditional versions, the Flying Tourbillon is only mounted on one side, with no supporting bridge on top. Again, more beautiful to look at, yet more difficult to create, because stability must be guaranteed. A challenge that the Geneva watchmaker has successfully achieved through a high-performing Flying Tourbillon built from 63 components.

The ultimate reward for this dynamic skeletonized approach is the Poinçon de Genève certification, one of the most demanding signatures in fine watchmaking. Along with provenance and reliability, it sets the benchmark for quality craftsmanship, whereby every component of the watch must be hand-decorated to the highest standard. In the RD512SQ Calibre, this philosophy of flawless and unique design can be seen across the sandblasted top surfaces, applied next to expertly polished angles.

The Wisdom of Materials

To master the forces surrounding the watch, the RD512SQ Calibre includes a lower tourbillon cage in non-magnetic titanium – twice lighter than stainless steel. Going even further, the upper tourbillon cage is produced in mirror-polished Cobalt Chrome – also non-magnetic – which enables the weight of the tourbillon to be reduced by 16%. As a result, the calibre shows a greater resistance to magnetic fields, while the power reserve is radically optimised to 72 hours.

Sitting on the wrist, the 42 mm case of the watch is built from pink gold and is mounted with a robust brass flange, which itself has been given a pink gold galvanic treatment, along with indexes filled with black Super-LumiNova™.

For the black calf-skin leather strap, personal style is set free thanks to the versatile quick release system, which enables the strap to be switched in seconds.

Elaborate in Every Way

The Year of the Dragon arrives only once every 12 years. It is a rarity in a lifetime and a moment that deserves a timepiece befitting of its stature.

Limited to just 28 pieces, the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon is Roger Dubuis’ powerful and unrivalled tribute to this auspicious occasion. It delivers an elaborate and inspiring vision of the mighty dragon, while furnishing the wearer with the finest example of modern tourbillon design.

A skilfully balanced creation, whereby performance and beauty are masterfully entwined.

The post A Powerful Design: The Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

This has been the daring ambition within this Swiss manufacture since its inception in 1995. A unique approach fuelled by the dream of Mr. Roger Dubuis himself, who envisioned one-of-kind timepieces for his closest circle of friends. Still today, that drive for exclusivity lives on through the Maison’s bold invention of Hyper Horology™.

This year, Roger Dubuis’ iconic journey continues at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024 – where the Maison unveils a place like no other to share its tourbillon artistry with the true believers in high horology. To see exactly what sets Roger Dubuis apart, visitors can immerse themselves in not one, but four exciting new releases, each distinguished by complex tourbillon mechanics as well as breath-taking aesthetics.

Introducing the Excalibur Sunrise Double Tourbillon

Powerful colour. Blazing light. Two unmistakeable hallmarks of Roger Dubuis design. This energizing creation has found inspiration in the intense illumination of a breaking dawn. Here, we meet the vision of a radiant sunrise, along with the iconic spark of passionate tourbillon watchmaking.

Embellished with a vivid gradient of gemstones, this visibly assertive timepiece shows how vibrant aesthetics can be equally matched by the strength of double tourbillon mechanics.

Double the Tourbillon

The tourbillon, in all its forms, has been at the heart of Roger Dubuis for over 20 years. A signature mechanism for the Maison – and one that demonstrates the utmost skill and expressive spirit of its craft.

The first Double Tourbillon from the Geneva watchmaker was released in 2005. Inside, the Calibre RD01 linked two tourbillons with a regulating differential – the essential gear system that mitigates the effects of gravity by balancing the two tourbillons. Adding this component in an already complicated mechanism was a technical achievement that marked Roger Dubuis as a watchmaker who never stands still.

Since that moment, the Maison has continued along its path of Double Tourbillon design. It’s a rare artistry that comes with its own particular set of challenges. None more so than the time required for development and craftsmanship.

Compared to a Monobalancier, for example, a single tourbillon takes twice as long to adjust and assemble. For the Double Tourbillon – it’s around twice as long again. This comes down to the hours required for fine-tuning and ensuring that each of the two mechanisms are aligned in terms of quality and reliability.

In the new Excalibur Sunrise Double Tourbillon, we see how Roger Dubuis has perfected the technique of this complex watchmaking challenge. Delivering 72 hours of power reserve, the RD108SQ is built from 319 components and features two flying tourbillons, once again linked by a differential.

And by placing these Double Tourbillons within a skeletonized framework, the Maison reveals a moving world of finely decorated surfaces and pure aesthetics – all endorsed by Poinçon de Genève certification – which not only guarantees the provenance and reliability of the watch, but also the quality of craftsmanship, whereby each surface of every component has been hand-decorated. A total of 17 different types of finishing were executed on the movement.

Beauty on the Rise

Never to outshine the superb mechanics of this watch, the burst of colour surrounding the body is formed from 108 gems. Each high-quality stone is baguette-cut with sublime precision and arranged in a sunrise gradient around the timepiece. With 72 on the bezel, 27 on the astral signature, and 9 on the flange, a spectacular effect is achieved, allowing the wearer to stand out in full luminosity.

For the red stones, the Maison chose the vivid shades of garnet. Bestowing vitality and charisma, their rich beauty is the ideal match for the sunrise’s deepest tone. On the next level of the gradient, the colours are produced in orange spessartite – a prized gem known for its high sparkle and mandarin shine. Finally, Roger Dubuis has selected the unrelenting energy of yellow sapphire for the lightest stones. A joyful hue that completes the morning inspiration.

Even more warmth is achieved through the glow of 18K pink gold, which Roger Dubuis has used for the 45 mm case of this masterpiece.

Energy in Full Flow

Limited to just 8 pieces, the Excalibur Sunrise Double Tourbillon is an extravagant watch for connoisseurs. Why be subtle, when you can deliver a timepiece with two high-performing tourbillons, and a radiance that exceeds expectations?

This powerful design is proof of Roger Dubuis’ expert craftsmanship. Through expressive aesthetics and mechanical prowess, the Maison has established the tourbillon as a signature of its watchmaking, and shown itself as a master of this iconic art. Here, that expressivity is a symbol of the new dawn, where intentions and aspirations are always within reach.

The Excalibur Sunrise Double Tourbillon is unveiled at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024, as part of four new tourbillons to be released this year, also including The Orbis In Machina, the Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon, and the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon.

Visitors to the display can immerse themselves in the innovation and extravagance on show, where Roger Dubuis’ unmistakeable Hyper Horology™ is waiting to be discovered inside a temple-like sanctuary dedicated to the Maison’s pillars of watchmaking expertise.

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Mad or possessed?Roger Dubuis is thus unashamedly guilty of that most serious of the seven deadly sins: Pride, known in Latin as SUPERBIA. Strongly linked to vanity and risk-taking, SUPERBIA is also regarded as having an obsessive addiction to adrenaline, just like, in fact, Roger Dubuis itself. Driven by this, along with its firm belief in living larger than life, Roger Dubuis has created Excalibur Superbia, the ultimate totem for a tribe of people who trust that life is but a game that is for making the most of.

The ultimate example of the Maison’s unshakable pride and excess, Excalibur Superbia is crafted in palladium-enriched white gold and set with exactly 600 precious white diamonds and blue sapphires. This offers a truly extravagant (and ideal) housing for Roger Dubuis iconic signature calibre: a brand-new DOUBLE FLYING TOURBILLON movement, the RD108SQ, inspired by its legendary version launched in 2005, the first double-regulator calibre connected with a differential, built up in volume and adorned with a diamond-set star. For the RD108SQ, paying tribute to Roger Dubuis’ status as a forerunner in the field of this extreme complication mastered by few other watchmakers, in the RD108SQ, the double flying tourbillon is transformed into the ultimate iconic signature.

Excalibur Superbia

Aptly demonstrated by multiple tricks embodied in this latest iteration of off-the-radar hyper horology, the devil, as Roger Dubuis knows all too well, is in the details. In the Excalibur Superbia, Roger Dubuis once again reinventsthe game like no one ever has before.Sending it firmly into the hallowed halls of World Premieres, the excessiveness of the Excalibur Superbia comes neither from its alloy nor its number of stones. What makes it truly bold is that every stone set on the flange, the bezel, the case and the crown is tetrahedron shaped and assembled with an invisible setting on curved surfaces. The hardest way to set a stone, an invisible setting becomes nearly impossible when required on a curved surface.

Where no man dares to tread

Not only has no jeweller or watchmaker ever dared to set a piece in this way, certainly no one has ever been crazy or ambitious enough to do it on a masculine watch. Until now. In this masterpiece in which the complexity of the pattern surpasses any norm known to mankind, master craftsmen at the Maison’s Geneva Manufacture have thus set about creating a backbone structure to encapsulate each stone from the back, complying with the brand’s total determination to avoid any material between the stones themselves.To complicate matters further, each and every glittering stone in the Excalibur Superbia is a tetrahedron, a shape requiring boundless cutting skill as its extreme thinness greatly increases the risk of breaking.

The concept of impossible is nothing if not meaningless at Roger Dubuis where the next challenge is simply round the corner, so not only did every stone have to be tetrahedron-shaped, the pattern was designed so that all 238 stones featured in the case of the Excalibur Superbia has a different shape and is thus singular.

Adding insult to injury, the design also demanded that the long-suffering craftsmen of the Manufacture would at times have to deal with the points of six or seven stones meeting simultaneously in the same spot.The test of Roger Dubuis setters’ skill does not stop here, however. The final sting in the tail of the Excalibur Superbia comes with the grooving –the last step required to complete the invisible setting with the previously perfectly triangulated stones.

This is so hard to do on a tetrahedron stone that it took each gemsetter an average of 30 minutes to do a single groove, corresponding to 900 hours for this operation alone on all three sides of the 600 diamonds, plus 420 hours to set the case and bezel–and that’s without even counting the stone-cutting!

The entire process takes about three times longer than the same case set with baguette-cut stones. And just for good measure, reaching the very pinnacle of complexity Roger Dubuis-style, in the Excalibur Superbia, this already painstaking, groundbreaking process has been entirely achieved on a curved surface.Simple, straight and utterly frank, the lines of this exceptional piece of artistry are strongly reminiscent of the spatial art forms favoured byinterior design artist KAZ SHIRANE with whom the brand that dares to be different shares a number of characteristics –not least from a visual perspective.

“I create interactive spaces that focuses on visitors. Whenever the space user enters a room filled with mirrors, there will be interaction –a reflection in mirrors -and the user can become the co-creator of this space. This mirrored space is designed to serve as a receiver and amplifier of the user’s will.

The space literally reflects the mind of the visitor, enabling him/her to become an artist. The only rule imposed on visitors in my installation is to enjoy the space as freely as they want. “Roger Dubuis and I share the same vision: we create incredible pieces that make people feel they arethe protagonists. For me, the Roger Dubuis Superbia watch is like a time machine that can take us to an extraordinary world in an instant. I always want to create such space in my artworks.

The elaborate craftsmanship is, of course, absolutely wonderful. But beyond that, what struck me the most is that it is a very artistic piece: its distinctive design catches the light so beautifully and can be noticed even from afar.I was honoured that my work inspired the design of their new watch. It proves that arthas many facets and can open up to new possibilities.I admire Roger Dubuis as it pours its heart into making its products; the importance it attaches to quality as well as its attention to details are visible in every aspect. I am looking forward to exploring this collaboration further. My role will be to express the Roger Dubuis philosophy and enable customers to experience its one-of-a-kind world through my art”

https://www.rogerdubuis.com/en

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