TRADITIONAL CRAFT FOR CONTEMPORARY DESIGN CODES
In modern independent watchmaking, true excellence often lies in the reinterpretation of traditional techniques. With the introduction of the Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt, DANIEL ROTH revisits a rare and historically rich dial-making technique, elevating it through modern execution. This new timepiece expands the Extra Plat collection with an exceptional focus on the dial – where the purity of time display is expressed through depth, contrast, and artisanal precision.
THE ART OF THE GILT DIAL
In pursuit of DANIEL ROTH’s Montre Objet d’Art philosophy, the gilt dial represents a convergence of vintage craftsmanship and dial-making techniques, where design codes are inseparable from technical execution.
Gilt dials are distinguished by indications that are not pad-printed onto the dial surface, as is typically the case, but instead take the form of negative shapes that reveal the underlying base plate. Made of solid gold, this base plate enhances both the dial’s legibility and brilliance. Historically, gilt dials became popular for their visually rich sensation of depth.
Often requiring several days of work, the guilloché is executed by a single artisan on a rose engine, a manual system that guides the
engravement with controlled linear precision.
The gilt dial-making process begins with the pad-masking of all dial indications – Roman numerals, the brand name, and the dial individual number – using a varnish applied directly to the surface of the gold chapter ring. This operation preserves these areas during the subsequent finishing. Crafted using a semi-automatic machine, the varnish is removed from the printing plate with a silicon pad and meticulously transferred onto the dial surface, down to a hundredth of a millimetre, to ensure uniform markings and exact alignment.
The dial then undergoes multiple electroplating treatments to achieve its sharp black shade.
Instead of a single application, colour is built through repeated immersions, with timing, temperature, and ambient conditions shaping the final result. The intensity of the black hue is finely calibrated, relying on the artisan’s trained eye to determine when the desired tone is reached.
Once the electroplating is complete, the masking varnish is removed using a controlled demasking process that dissolves this layer without affecting the underneath surface. What remains is not an applied marking;a rather, the roman numerals, DANIEL ROTH name, and dial individual number are sharply revealed from the original gold base plate beneath.
The numerals and inscriptions seem sketched from within the dial itself. This sequence gives visibility to a subtle, distinct layering: the gold elements sit under the glossy black surface, creating a fine edge that interacts intimately with light.
At the final stage of crafting the gilt dial, the chapter ring is placed on the dial base and secured, then fitted directly onto the movement. The black dial, combined with the gold indexes and markings, gives the dial a unique 3D effect, balancing elegance and legibility, all executed on a solid gold base. The guilloché pinstripe pattern beneath further shapes these reflections, creating a surface that shifts in shade and richness with angle and movement. Such an effect cannot be achieved solely with pad-printing.
WARMTH AND DEPTH IN ROSE GOLD
Crafted in 5N rose gold, the Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt emphasises the warmth of this alloy, which softens the elegant lines of the iconic case shape. The interplay between the black dial, rose gold case, and black leather strap creates a pronounced yet refined presence on the wrist, resulting in a composition that feels layered and precisely executed. Light is reflected and absorbed, shaping a gradual and refined reading of the dial.
ARCHITECTURAL BALANCE IN THE DR002
Like the other timepieces in the Extra Plat Collection, the Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt is powered by the Calibre DR002. The manual-winding movement comprises 143 components, all visible through the open caseback. Refined and discreet, the movement was designed to perfectly fit within the slim proportions of the double-ellipse case and to strike a balance between exceptional craftsmanship and Swiss horological elegance.
The finishes reflect an artisanal, precise approach to execution, from the defined inner angles to the extensive bevelling. Across
the bridges, edges are shaped and polished by hand. Operating at 4Hz, the DR002 ensures stable timekeeping while maintaining a 65-hour power reserve, achieved through a considerable balance between frequency and energy efficiency. The winding mechanism features a bar click to deliver a satisfying sensation when winding the watch.
With the introduction of the Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt, the Extra Plat collection reaffirms its commitment to essential time display, blending traditional design codes and methods with a contemporary approach. Through a meticulous multi-stage dial process and a hand-crafted calibre, the new timepiece reflects DANIEL ROTH’s enduring dedication to restraint and artistic precision in high watchmaking.
