Bold, unexpected, and forever at the forefront of expressive design, Roger Dubuis is a watchmaker like no other. A Maison that perpetuates the finest traditions, while simultaneously shaping the future with its own extravagant interpretations.
This has been the daring ambition within this Swiss manufacture since its inception in 1995. A unique approach fuelled by the dream of Mr. Roger Dubuis himself, who envisioned one-of-kind timepieces for his closest circle of friends. Still today, that drive for exclusivity lives on through the Maison’s bold invention of Hyper Horology™.
This year, the Roger Dubuis journey continues at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024 – where the Maison’s tourbillon artistry will be demonstrated like never before. To see exactly what sets Roger Dubuis apart, visitors can immerse themselves in not one, but four exciting new releases, each distinguished by complex tourbillon mechanics as well as breath-taking aesthetics.
Introducing the Orbis in Machina
Contrasts are revealed. Harmony is created. The new Orbis in Machina presents a dual perspective of Roger Dubuis’ iconic tourbillon craftsmanship. The astonishing creation embraces both heritage as well as modern engineering, emphasizing the duality of the design, and creating a visible link between watchmaking generations. The story is told from front to back and reveals the art of tradition matched by the cutting-edge architecture of today.
The name, Orbis in Machina, is a nod to the revolving nature of the tourbillon, and the circular orbit of the watch’s display. A fusion of movement and mechanical ingenuity that brings the concept to life.
Continuing the Central Tourbillon Calibre
Roger Dubuis has long been associated with tourbillon distinction, having developed its own line of in-house tourbillon movements over the course of more than 20 years.
The manual-winding Calibre RD115 marks the Maison’s latest significant milestone and is housed inside the Orbis In Machina watch. Built from 283 components and with 29 rubies, the Calibre RD115 is a Flying Tourbillon – just like all Roger Dubuis tourbillons made since 2003. More impressive to look at, yet much more complex to build.
For Mr. Roger Dubuis, the Maison’s founder, it was forever important to draw inspiration from the past and transform it into modern mechanisms. Here, that philosophy is dutifully continued with the watch’s selection bolt, which is inspired by the ancient “Ébauche” components of high horology. By doing so, it has allowed the watchmakers to place the winding and setting system at the bottom of the movement, liberating more space above for the hour hand.
Innovation also comes in the use of materials: to increase resistance to magnetic fields and keep perfect control of the weight, the lower tourbillon cage is in anti- magnetic titanium – twice lighter than stainless steel – while the upper tourbillon cage is in mirror-polished Cobalt Chrome, which is also non-magnetic and enables the weight of the tourbillon to be reduced by 16%. Finally, the power reserve is optimised to 72 hours.
Designed with a Difference
Within this latest creation, the central placement of the tourbillon has given the watchmakers a unique opportunity to play with the décor – and take their aesthetics in a different and more circular direction.
This is most evident in the watch’s round lines and deep volume. As opposed to the emblematic Roger Dubuis position at 7 o’clock, the flying tourbillon sits neatly at the centre, setting the stage for a beautiful concentricity. The mechanism itself has also been purified as well as compacted, thanks to a new patent-pending planetary system, not only creating more space, but firmly establishing an alternate look compared to other tourbillons of the past.
The Contemporary Face
The Central Monotourbillon is indeed a rare sight within watchmaking. In creation, it poses a number of challenges, such as finding a different way to display the hands, while also redistributing the movement’s components around the tourbillon itself.
Naturally, Roger Dubuis has embraced that challenge with both hands. From the front, this 45mm timepiece is therefore contemporary as well as captivating.
Starting at the middle, the designers have worked outwards, delivering an aesthetic purity through contrasting concentric circles in pink gold and grey that indicate the seconds, minutes, and hours. It’s an overall reinterpretation of the skeleton style, allowing the watchmakers to play with the space and glorify the tourbillon by placing it at the centre.
The 3D discs for the minutes and hours displays are particularly prominent and are contrasted by open-worked flying hands, mounted on ball bearings, that are double-sided and sharp. This particular display required the invention of a patent- pending system, which can safely disengage the hands and allow the watch to be set with assured stability.
A similar double-sided approach has been taken for the flange, which houses the hour indications on the outer perimeter.
Going one step further, the Maison’s watchmakers have set all of the circles at different heights, delivering a multi-levelled décor that draws the wearer in. While revealing a glimpse of the skeletonised calibre beneath, it once again shows the high level of modern workmanship at which Roger Dubuis is able to perform.
A Caseback of Horological Excellence
Roger Dubuis was one of the first watchmakers to systemize transparent casebacks on all watches within its collection. This created an unrestricted view into the Maison’s mechanical world and showcased the impeccable work that goes into every component. More to the point, it revealed the dedication to Poinçon de Genève certification, whereby the surfaces of every component within the calibre must be hand-decorated to the highest standard.
In the Orbis in Machina, the sapphire crystal acts as a window to the utmost excellence of Geneva fine watchmaking. In contrast to the front of the watch, the view through the back is based on detailed heritage, with a look that will instantly appeal to connoisseurs of high horology. Two opposing yet complementary sides that show the differentiation and duality that characterises Roger Dubuis.
The artistry and hand finishing through the caseback is almost baroque in its appearance, with elaborate detailing that feels rich and exclusive. Take note of specific details, such as the sliced bridges, and the rounder lines, which are very much rooted in classic Geneva haute horologie. 19 specific finishing techniques are used, including the elegant perlage, Côte de Genève, and snailing.
The ultimate reward for this dynamic skeletonized approach is the Poinçon de Genève certification, one of the most demanding signatures in fine watchmaking. Along with provenance and reliability, it sets the benchmark for quality as well as craftsmanship.
A Roger Dubuis Rarity
Crafted with an 18K pink gold case and bezel and presented on a black leather strap with a quick release system, the Orbis in Machina delights with both aesthetics and performance.
This is Roger Dubuis’ first Central Tourbillon timepiece launched within the main collection – and will be released in a series of only 88 editions.
For collectors and connoisseurs, this immaculate timepiece is perhaps the best expression of who Roger Dubuis is today. A watchmaker who embraces the know- how of the past – and then transforms it with modern creativity and innovation. It is indeed a watch of contrasts. The very same spirit that built the reputation of this entire Maison.
The Orbis in Machina is unveiled at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024, where Roger Dubuis’ unmistakeable Hyper Horology™ is waiting to be discovered inside a temple-like sanctuary, dedicated to the Maison’s pillars of watchmaking expertise. Visitors to the display can immerse themselves in the innovation and extravagance on show, while seeing this new timepiece amongst a quartet of new and impressive tourbillon releases.
