Le Brassus, September 2023 – Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet is pleased to unveil a new iteration of its Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin that combines two high-tech materials. Following the launch of the Only Watch unique piece presented in 2021, this new 39 mm model introduces a case and a bracelet that combine titanium and precious metallic glass (or BMG for Bulk Metallic Glass) into the collection for the very first time. This new cutting-edge material has been co-developed by Audemars Piguet with a palladium base – another first – making it particularly shiny and resistant to scratches. Powered by the new Calibre 7121 which was launched in 2022 in the new “Jumbo” references (ref. 16202), this new timepiece is also illuminated by a smoked burgundy dial, giving it a deep, bewitching aesthetic.
The new Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin model introduces bulk metallic glass into the collection for the first time. It can be found on the bezel, caseback and bracelet studs. Combined with a titanium case, this material creates a fascinating play of light that is enhanced by a smoked burgundy dial. © Courtesy of Audemars Piguet
“Following the launch of the Only Watch unique piece presented in 2021, this new Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin model marks the debut of precious bulk metallic glass into the collection. This first in the watchmaking sector bears witness to the ongoing research into innovative materials conducted by the Manufacture since its creation.”
Lucas Raggi
Development Director Audemars Piguet
A LIGHT AND STRONG ALLOY
For the first time, the Manufacture is combining titanium with bulk metallic glass (BMG), a material notably used in microelectronics and golf. Discovered in the 1960s, this alloy shares certain characteristics with glass, such as amorphism and hardness, when it is cooled very quickly. While several hundred types of metallic glass exist, Audemars Piguet has chosen to co-develop its own palladium-based metallic glass, giving it high resistance to wear and corrosion as well as enhanced brilliance. This is the first time that a palladium-based metallic glass has appeared in a collection in the watchmaking sector.
A dedicated production process has been developed that starts with the material being melted and poured into molds (for the bezel and caseback) to give them the desired pre-shape. The material is then rapidly cooled to retain its intrinsic qualities, including hardness and elasticity. Once it is taken out of the molds, the pieces are machined into their final shape. Due to the rapid cooling process required to obtain the material, the size and thickness of the components cannot be too large and only small quantities can be produced at a time.
Used for the bezel, caseback frame and bracelet studs, the bulk metallic glass has been mirror-polished to reveal its high resistance to scratches. This finish, combined with the brilliance of the material, provides a powerful contrast with the titanium case and bracelet links that alternate between the polished and satin-finished decorations that are emblematic of the Manufacture’s timepieces. The caseback also bears the “Pd500” hallmark, as BMG contains over 50% of palladium.
A DIAL WITH A DEEP COLOUR
The smoked burgundy dial of this new Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin model is decorated with a sunburst motif. The vivid burgundy colour also contrasts with the metallic tones of the high-tech case and bracelet materials, giving the watch a mysterious appearance. The dial features luminescent 18-carat pink gold hour-markers and hands, with the polished and applied AP monogram at 6 o’clock. The date appears in pink tones against a dark burgundy background, adding the final touch to the aesthetic balance of the timepiece.
CALIBRE 7121: TOWARDS A NEW ERA
This new Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin model is equipped with the Calibre 7121, introduced in 2022 to replace the Calibre 2121, which has powered the “Jumbo” models since 1972. The unique Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Only Watch was the last timepiece to be fitted with the Calibre 2121, and the introduction of the Calibre 7121 in 2022 marked the start of a new generation of timepieces in this reference. With a thickness of 3.2 mm, Calibre 7121 has been developed and produced by Audemars Piguet’s engineers and watchmakers to fit into the iconic 8.1 mm case without altering the aesthetics or thickness of the watch. Furthermore, the crown is now equipped with a rapid date corrector.
Having taken five years to develop, Calibre 7121 produces more energy than its predecessor thanks to its new construction and larger barrel. This gain enables the mechanism to achieve greater precision over a longer period of time. The central oscillating weight is mounted on ball bearings and is equipped with two reversers that ensure bidirectional winding. The balance wheel is fitted with weights that are embedded into the thickness to avoid any aerodynamic friction which would slow down the movement. Calibre 7121 is also equipped with a patented date mechanism that is both extremely thin and energy efficient.
True to the tradition of Haute Horlogerie, Calibre 7121 features prestigious decorations, such as Côtes de Genève, circular satin-finishing, snailing, circular graining and angle polishing, which can all be admired through the sapphire caseback. This also reveals the 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight dedicated to the collection, which subtly matches the colour of the hour-markers and the AP logo on the dial.
*****
This new Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin model combines the iconic aesthetics of the collection with a cutting-edge material, testifying to the Manufacture’s ongoing quest for innovation and its desire to push the boundaries of Haute Horlogerie even further.
“Seek Beyond.”
