TUDOR introduces the newest iteration of the Black Bay in monochrome. Representing the latest in Black Bay, this model features evolved design elements, a “T-fit” clasp and is Master Chronometer certified by METAS.
The original Black Bay first launched in 2012 and was given the Manufacture Calibre treatment in 2016. Now it is offered in a third evolution cementing the aesthetic and technical future of the line. Alongside the third-generation Black Bay with burgundy bezel, this new iteration features a monochromatic look with an inky black dial and applied rhodium-plated hour markers and hands for a modern aesthetic. Named Black Bay, this emblematic design in the TUDOR collection is another example of TUDOR’s expert command of one of the industry’s most demanding standards in terms of chronometry and resistance to magnetic fields. Tested by the Federal Institute of Metrology or METAS, the Black Bay brings together cutting-edge watchmaking technology with design elements inspired by TUDOR’s nearly seven-decade heritage of making robust professional diving watches.
KEY POINTS
1. “Original” Black Bay proportions of a 41mm case in stainless steel with a 60-minute unidirectional black bezel with silver accents
2. Subtly domed satin radial-brushed black dial with silver accents
3. “Snowflake” hands, a hallmark of TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material
4. Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U, certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with a silicon hairspring and a 70-hour power reserve
5. A choice between a stainless steel 3-link “rivet-style” or 5-link bracelet or a rubber strap, all with TUDOR “T-fit” rapid adjustment clasp
6. Master Chronometer certified by METAS
7. Five-year transferable guarantee, with no registration or periodic maintenance checks required
TUDOR QUALITY
With the introduction of this brand-new Black Bay, TUDOR has successfully submitted yet another model for tests to obtain Master Chronometer certification. This is part of a constant bid to improve the quality of its products and another step towards a future where the entire TUDOR collection will be Master Chronometer certified. This certification, offered by a Swiss government body, METAS, requires a substantial number of changes to a regular TUDOR Manufacture Calibre and comes as an independent confirmation of the exceptional quality of the TUDOR watches.
COMPREHENSIVE INDEPENDENT CERTIFICATION AND HIGH STANDARDS
METAS Master Chronometer certification is comprehensive and covers the main functional characteristics of a watch including precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness and power reserve. Its standards are incredibly high, starting with precision. In order to qualify, a watch must be able to function within a 5-second range of variation each day (0/+5), that is to say 5 seconds less than the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) (-4/+6) carried out on uncased movements and a second less than TUDOR’s internal standard (-2/+4), which is applied to the brand’s models with a Manufacture Calibre. The certification also guarantees the timekeeping accuracy of a watch subjected to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss. Finally, it also guarantees the waterproofness claimed by the manufacturer as well as the power reserve. It should also be noted that two prerequisites are necessary before the certification can be obtained: Swiss manufacturing must conform with the criteria of Swiss Made, and the movement must be certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
CRITERIA AND TESTS FOR METAS CERTIFICATION
All the tests and prerequisites leading to the Master Chronometer certification, which the Black Bay has achieved, are summarised below:
Swiss Made
Certification by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC)
Precision at two temperatures, in six positions and at two levels of power reserve: 100% and 33%
Smooth functioning when exposed to a magnetic field of 15,000 gauss and precision following exposure
Waterproof to 200m (660 ft)
70-hour power reserve
THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5602-U
The Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U, which powers the Black Bay, displays hour, minute and seconds functions. It offers the general look and feel of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres with dedicated sun laser design and bears the Master Chronometer mention on its bridges, emphasising its distinctive performance. Its rotor is fashioned in tungsten monobloc and is openworked. It also features the distinctive laser radial grooving with sand-blasted details. Its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted and polished surfaces and laser decorations.
The build of the Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U is designed to ensure robustness and precision. To do this, the variable inertia balance wheel is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with two-point anchoring. It is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily rate of an uncased movement of between (-4/+6) seconds and TUDOR applies a 6-second (-2/+4) variation standard on its fully assembled watches, METAS requires a Master-Chronometer-certified watch to run within a tolerance range of 5 seconds (0/+5). Not only is the Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U certified to be more accurate, it is also rated as anti-magnetic, making it impervious to magnetic fields below 15,000 gauss.
Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U Calibre is “weekend-proof”; that is to say, it has been certified for 70 hours by METAS, which enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind it. Even if you need a weekend away, your watch does not.
EMBLEMATIC LOOK
The Black Bay remains one of TUDOR’s most recognized and recognizable models. In its latest iteration, the case keeps the original proportions of a 41mm case with a thinner profile. The unidirectional rotatable bezel offers very prehensible sides and its insert shows subtly curved numerals aligning with the outline of the outer ring. However, the aesthetic details don’t stop at case dimensions and bezel. The seconds hand recalls the look of the early diving watches of the brand with a lollipop design, while the satin black dial is softly radial-brushed for a very subtle shine under direct light. Ergonomics have evolved as well, with a redesigned crown, reminiscent of the curves found on the crowns of the brand’s historical technical watches, that is set flush to the middle case band so that its tube is not visible.
STAINLESS STEEL BRACELETS OR RUBBER STRAP, ALL WITH “T-FIT”
The Black Bay comes fitted with either an entirely satin-brushed 3-link stainless steel bracelet or a five-oval-shaped-link brushed and polished bracelet also in steel, both complete with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp equipped with a system for rapid length adjustment. Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, this practical system allows wearers to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of the total length of the bracelet along an adjustment window of 8mm. The clasp features ceramic ball bearings that ensure a smooth and secure closure in addition to adding a pleasing tactile element to the action of the clasp.
The “rivet-style” 3-link bracelet of the Black Bay model visually refers to the riveted bracelets used by TUDOR in the 1950s and 1960s. These were famous for having rivet heads visible on the side of the links. These bracelets also had a distinct stepped design, where every link, going from the clasp, was slightly larger than the previous one. These two aesthetic elements appear on today’s version, which combines modern manufacturing methods with solid links and “rivets” with laser-finished heads.
A cut-to-size black rubber strap option is also available for the Black Bay. It comes in three sizes, fitted with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp for the perfect fit. On the inside, it features the signature snowflake motif for added grip, and it is form-fitted specifically for this model.
THE ESSENCE OF BLACK BAY
The Black Bay line features dials inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced during the 1950s. It borrows the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “Snowflake” from models that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Its shoulderless crown and the characteristics of its case are reminiscent of the first generations of TUDOR divers’ watches.
The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, it brings together 70 years of TUDOR dive watches, whilst at the same time being resolutely anchored in the present. It is neo-vintage in conception, yet its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finishes are consistent with today’s more rigorous requirements.
