TUDOR introduces a bold version of its popular model, the Black Bay 58, in 18 ct yellow gold with an open case back, Manufacture Calibre and now a solid gold bracelet, complete with “T-fit” clasp.
The name Black Bay 58 18K is, of course, a reference to the precious metal of its case and bracelet, but also to 1958, the year in which the first TUDOR divers’ watch waterproof to 200 metres (660 ft), reference 7924 or “Big Crown”, was introduced. The Black Bay 58 18K is also the first TUDOR divers’ watch to be made in 18 ct solid yellow gold, offered with an open case back. And now it comes with a matching all satin-finished 18 ct yellow gold bracelet to boot.
KEY POINTS
1. 39mm case with satin finish in 18 ct yellow gold with an open case back
2. Subtly domed matt “golden green” dial with applied hour markers in 18 ct yellow gold
3. “Snowflake” hands, a hallmark of TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, in 18 ct yellow gold, with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material
4. Manufacture Calibre MT5400, certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) with a hairspring in silicon and a 70-hour power reserve
5. 3-link 18 ct yellow gold bracelet with TUDOR “T-fit” rapid adjustment clasp
6. Five-year transferable guarantee, with no registration or periodic maintenance checks required
MATT GOLD AND “GOLDEN GREEN” TONES
Entirely satin-finished for a matt effect, the 18 ct yellow gold case of the Black Bay 58 18K is another first for a TUDOR divers’ watch. An open case back, which reveals the new Manufacture Calibre MT5400, has not been offered by the brand before for this type of product and reinforces the dual aesthetic language of this model. Midway between the legacy of a robust tool-watch that still defines TUDOR and a precious object, the Black Bay 58 18K remains as rare as it is exclusive. The matt 18 ct yellow gold of the Black Bay 58 18K is emphasised by the combination of dial and bezel, which are a rich “golden green” in tone with matt gold details. The “Snowflake” hands are also in 18 ct yellow gold, as are the applied hour markers.
SOLID GOLD BRACELET
Another first for a TUDOR diving watch, the Black Bay 58 18K now comes with a solid gold 3-link bracelet featuring the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp, an ingenuous system for rapid length adjustment. Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, this practical touch allows wearers to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of the total length of the bracelet along an adjustment window of 8mm. The clasp features ceramic ball bearings that ensure a smooth and secure closure in addition to adding a pleasing tactile element to the action of the clasp.
THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5400
The Manufacture Calibre MT5400, which powers the Black Bay 58 18K, displays hour, minute and second functions. It has the finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres: its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted and polished surfaces and laser decorations.
The build of the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 is designed to ensure robustness and precision. To do this, the variable inertia balance wheel is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with two-point anchoring. It is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily rate of an uncased movement of between -4 and +6 seconds, TUDOR applies a 6-second (-2/+4) variation standard on its fully assembled watches with Manufacture Calibres.
Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 is “weekend-proof”; that is to say about 70 hours, which enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to reset it.
THE ESSENCE OF BLACK BAY
The Black Bay line features dials inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced during the 1950s. It borrows the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “Snowflake” from models that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Its shoulderless crown and the characteristics of its case are reminiscent of the first generations of TUDOR divers’ watches.
The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, it brings together 70 years of TUDOR dive watches, whilst at the same time being resolutely anchored in the present. It is neo-vintage in conception, yet its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finishes are consistent with today’s more rigorous requirements.
