In a landmark development for the Swiss watchmaking industry, Breitling has announced its acquisition of Universal Genève, marking a new chapter for the brand renowned for its horological artistry and innovation. This strategic move promises to restore the prestige of a hallowed name in the world of luxury timepieces.
“As excited as we are, we are also fully aware of the task at hand and the profound heritage we are set to uphold,” stated Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling. “Universal Genève was once hailed as the couturier of watchmaking, renowned for its in-house movements and mythical models. It is a brand that watch enthusiasts have dreamed of seeing make a permanent comeback,” said Alfred Gantner, Co-Founder of Partners Group and Chairman of the Breitling board. “Rebuilding a brand with such a rich narrative is not a quick endeavor—it is a meticulous labor of love that we anticipate will unfold over the coming years. A dedicated team will be brought on board to allow Breitling and Universal Genève to operate as separate maisons,” explained Georges Kern.
Founded in 1894, Universal Genève rose to prominence through the early to mid-20th century with their innovative designs and technical prowess. However, the advent of the quartz crisis significantly challenged the company, marking a shift in its trajectory. Since 1989, it had been owned by the Hong Kong based Stelux Group, which actively maintained its legacy. With this ac-quisition, Breitling aims to restore the storied brand to its former glory, grounded in Swiss tradi-tion yet poised for contemporary relevance.
“We are convinced that Breitling is best positioned to take Universal Genève to the next level, as it has so successfully done with its own marque,” said Joseph Wong, Chairman and CEO of Stelux Group. “When stewarding a maison d’horlogerie of this stature, preserving its heritage is a topmost concern. The management at Breitling has demonstrated that it is 100 percent committed to ensuring that Universal Genève lives on, not just in name but in spirit.”
A BRIEF HISTORY OF UNIVERSAL GENÈVE
1920s: “Precision watches, precision jewelry” – Universal Genève’s early history featured elegant women’s cocktail watches and innovative men’s jewelry timepieces, including the reversible Cabriolet, one of the first of its kind.
1940s: “Accurate time… plus” – The brand was at the forefront of chrono graph innovation, offering an impressive variety of its Compax chrono graphs with manufacture movements, along with the legendary Tri-Compax full calendar launched to celebrate the brand’s 50th anniversary.
1950s: “A triumph of watchmaking” – The Polerouter watch was designed to withstand any climate, from the pole to equator. Universal Genève commissioned it from a 23-year-old Gérald Genta. Also in that decade, the brand introduced a revolutionary self-winding movement known as the Microtor.
1960s: “Le couturier de la montre” – The brand successfully relaunched its Compax series as sports watches, including the collectors’ favorite “Nina Rindt” chronograph and full-calendar Tri-Compax “Eric Clapton”, nicknamed for their famous wearers. In 1966, Universal Genève released the world’s flattest automatic movement in its Golden Shadow.
UNITED BY A SHARED PAST
It is not the first time Universal Genève and Breitling have shared links. As the leading specialists in the chronograph, they were equal parts rivals and allies. Now, they are set to live side by side once more, maintaining their individuality while honoring a mutual history of ingenuity.
“This revival is a dream turned into a vision,” Kern elaborated. “It’s a process we are embarking on with the utmost respect and dedication with the aim of seeing Universal Genève restored to its rightful place in watchmaking.”
