Arnold & Son continues its exploration of rare and unprecedented materials in watchmaking. Charoite, a delicate mauve with fine white veins, brings its noble shade to the Double Tourbillon grand complication. Set off by the white gold case, skeletonised bridges and pure white opal subdials, charoite gives this one-off piece a unique elegance.
In the watchmaking language of Arnold & Son, the double tourbillon is a rare construction, making the eponymous collection a vehicle for unique pieces. Double Tourbillon White Gold draws on the richness of the natural materials that Arnold & Son explores with method and originality. After imperial jade, malachite and Baltic amber, Arnold & Son presents charoite.
Rare earth
Parma violet, mauve, lavender, lilac… There are many words to describe the shifting colour of charoite. Like lapis lazuli, it is the product of a rich and textured coalition of different minerals. In fact, it is one of the most complex stones ever formed by the Earth’s crust since its chemical formula is a silicate containing traces of aluminium, iron, manganese, barium and strontium.
Charoite is made up of an interweaving of complex textures. It was in these strata that Arnold & Son sought the surface for the dial of Double Tourbillon White Gold, finely cutting the stone without breaking it, opening up two large spaces for the subdials and tourbillon carriages, and polishing it to reveal a mauve peppered with white.
Duality
In historical terms, Double Tourbillon White Gold draws on the fundamental vocation of John Arnold’s work: chronometry. His production of marine chronometers sought to simplify and augment the perfect reliability of time measurement. The aim was to keep track of the time at the point of departure. By comparing it with that of the place where the measurement was taken, based on observing true solar noon, ocean navigators were able to calculate their position on an east-west axis, or their longitude.
Double Tourbillon White Gold perpetuates this duality by displaying local time on the subdial at 12 o’clock, punctuated by Roman numerals. It is complemented by a display of the time in another location at 6 o’clock, using Arabic numerals. These two dials display hours and minutes that are completely independent, and accurate to the minute.
Craftsmanship
In terms of pure watchmaking, Double Tourbillon draws on the Manufacture’s design, production, finishing and adjustment capabilities. Its sapphire crystal is convex to accommodate the depth of its two tourbillons, which are in turn each secured to a three-dimensional, skeletonised, cantilevered bridge in white gold. They are also at the end of a double gear train. The A&S8513 calibre is thus equipped with two barrels, two crowns and two time zones.
They can display the same time, two different times, or one can tell the time while the other is timing a long event. Unlike the majority of so-called travel watches, Double Tourbillon can thus adapt to time zones that are offset by 15, 30 or 45 minutes.
Finishes
The structure of this movement is underscored by sophisticated finishes. From the radiating Côtes de Genève stripes to the circular-grained mainplate, the double-snailed barrels, the sunray-brushed crown wheels and the polished gold chatons, everything about the A&S8513 calibre exudes elevation, craftsmanship and excellence.
The bevelled, satin-finished and mirror-polished tourbillon bridges in white gold are the highlight of an exceptionally elegant display in relief. Double Tourbillon White Gold offers a mechanical and ornamental counterpart to the symbolic aesthetic that reigns on its dials
