On this exceptional timepiece, the minute repeater takes centre stage. The hammers and gongs – traditionally concealed on the back of the movement – are revealed on the dial side. This distinctive construction required a complete rethinking of the calibre’s architecture in order to ensure impeccable acoustic quality while offering maximum visibility of the mechanism. The beauty of the sound is matched by that of the mechanics, revealed through meticulous skeletonisation. Openworked bridges, lightened volumes, clear views: the gaze moves freely through the movement. Nothing is hidden.

At 2 o’clock, in a break with this transparency, a small domed aventurine dial instantly draws the eye with its depth and visual richness. Descended from a centuries-old glassmaking tradition, aventurine glass is produced using a complex process that traps minute copper crystals within the material, creating its distinctive shimmer. For this creation, fragments of aventurine glass in two colours are applied by hand to a domed base to produce H. Moser & Cie.’s signature fumé gradient, then subjected to multiple firings.

Once this first stage is complete, the dial undergoes a second, extremely delicate process. Thin mother-of-pearl strips are cut, subtly curved then integrated into the previously engraved surface, following the contours of the dial. Their delicately iridescent glow seems to penetrate the depth of the aventurine, appearing like a shower of stars across the night sky. Each strip is individually positioned, transforming this miniature dial into a unique composition where glass, light and materials converge.
This artistry is not intended to compete with the mechanics, but rather to complement it. Where the minute repeater speaks to the ear and the tourbillon expresses the precision of movement, aventurine and mother-of-pearl speak to the eye. Three different languages brought together in a single creation.

To this sonic and visual architecture is added a one-minute flying tourbillon fitted with a cylindrical hairspring. Inherited from 18th-century marine chronometers, this hairspring rises perpendicularly around the upper stem of the balance staff. Its concentric geometry improves the isochronism and attests to a level of craftsmanship that has become extremely rare. Produced by Precision Engineering AG, a sister company of H. Moser & Cie., each cylindrical hairspring is hand-shaped using a demanding process that requires a significantly longer production time than that of a conventional hairspring.

Driven by the hand-wound, fully skeletonised Manufacture calibre HMC 909, the Endeavour Minute Repeater Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Cosmic Rain celebrates the convergence of a multi-faceted excellence: the mastery of sound, the precision of movement and the beauty of artisanal craftsmanship.

H. Moser & Cie.’s own and unique take on Haute Horlogerie.

The post ENDEAVOUR MINUTE REPEATER CYLINDRICAL TOURBILLON SKELETON COSMIC RAIN: PRECISION MECHANICS IN THE LIGHT appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

Stone dials are not new in the Gerald Charles collection – they represent a return to form. Gérald Charles Genta was famous for his appetite for experimentation, and few materials captured that spirit better than natural stone: unpredictable, alive with colour, and impossible to fully control. The Masterlink Stone Dial continues that tradition, pairing the founder’s love of the unexpected with the technical precision of the modern Maison.

A Shape That Allows No Compromise

The Masterlink’s identity lies in its asymmetry – most visibly in the signature “smile” at 6 o’clock. On a conventional round dial, a stone blank can simply be cut to diameter. On the Masterlink, the stone must be shaped to follow that same sculptural curve, with no room to hide an imperfection at the very point where the eye is drawn.

Stone does not bend to a template: cutting a rigid, unpredictable material to an irregular silhouette – rather than a forgiving circle-multiplies the risk of breakage at every stage, and demands a precision that only hand craftsmanship can deliver.

Twenty-Four Hours, One Dial

Behind every Masterlink Stone Dial lies a process that tests patience as much as skill. It begins blind: until the first cut is made, no one can know the exact colour hidden inside the stone. Each block is sliced into 5mm sections to reveal its tone, its impurities, and the zones worth pursuing – a search for consistency in a material that offers none by nature.

From there, the stone is cut to its asymmetrical form, then hand-polished down to 1mm, then further refined to a fragile 0.55mm – thinner than a credit card, and just as easy to break, now in a shape with no straight edges to simplify the work. The numbers tell their own story: for a production run of 50 dials, 150 are selected to survive the process. Roughly one in ten is lost at the polishing stage. During machining alone, when the dial, brass base, and applique are shaped and the stone ground to its final silhouette, losses climb as high as 65%. Every survivor is then inspected, hand-assembled with the utmost care to avoid a single scratch, and finished with the Gerald Charles logo – more than a 24-hour journey from raw mineral to finished dial, repeated one piece at a time, with no guarantee of success until the very end.

AVENTURINE – Brazil
Formed over geological time as quartz-rich rock is compressed and heated deep within the Earth’s crust, aventurine owes its shimmer to countless microscopic mineral inclusions suspended within a dense, stable structure.

That same density makes it demanding to cut: precise control is required to preserve the sparkle without fracturing the stone, resulting in a dial that shifts between quiet depth and sudden brilliance – a night sky captured in mineral form.

SPECTROLITE – Finland
A rare variety of labradorite, Spectrolite forms in ancient igneous rock from the slow cooling of magma. Its vivid blues, greens, golds, and violets come not from pigment but from ultra-fine internal layers that refract light a phenomenon known as labradorescence. Cutting the dial to the correct angle is critical: shift the orientation by even a fraction, and the colour show disappears. Get it right, and the dial comes alive with every turn of the wrist.

IRON EYE – South Africa
Iron Eye is born from iron- and silica-rich deposits compressed and recrystallized over nearly 2.5 billion years, producing a banded structure of hematite, jasper, and tiger’s eye. Its hardness and mixed composition make it one of the most technically demanding stones to cut cleanly – a single dial can reveal three different mineral densities within one surface. The result is a striking, unrepeatable cross-section of deep time.

No two dials are ever alike

Each one preserves the natural variations, reflections, and irregularities of its stone – a distinctive identity, and a geological story million, sometimes billions, of years in the making. Each of the three dials is offered as a limited edition of 10 pieces, for a total of 30 timepieces worldwide.
“Gérald was never afraid of a material that couldn’t be controlled – stone excited him precisely because every piece had a mind of its own,” says Federico Ziviani, CEO of Gerald Charles.
“With the Masterlink Gem Set Stone Dial, we’ve brought that same spirit into a case he never had the chance to design for.”

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In the 1960s, the Top Time was Breitling’s unconventional chronograph, created for a new, youthful, speed-driven audience. When a Top Time ref. 2002 appeared on Sean Connery’s wrist in Thunderball (1965), worn alongside the Aston Martin DB5, two icons of the era shared a defining moment in design history. It marked the first Q-modified watch in the James Bond series, and a chapter where speed and style found a common language.

That moment is reinterpreted here through material and form. Wood-inlayed details, hand-colored gradient leather straps, and refined dial executions echo the interiors of the Aston Martin DB5. The result is a watch that captures the feel of being behind the wheel of Aston Martin’s classic grand tourer.

“The Aston Martin DB5 is one of those rare designs that never fades. It still feels as relevant today as it did in the 1960s,” says Georges Kern, CEO of House of Brands (Universal Genève, Breitling, and Gallet). “With this Top Time, we capture that sense of timeless style.”

Marek Reichman, Executive Vice President and Chief Creative Officer at Aston Martin adds: “These editions represent something truly distinct from anything we’ve created before. The collaboration with Breitling brought together two brands with a shared appreciation for timeless design, craftsmanship, and innovation, allowing us to exchange ideas in a way that felt both natural and ambitious. Inspired by the enduring elegance of the Aston Martin DB5 and our shared heritage of iconic design, the watch captures a balance of beauty, precision, and performance. Every detail has been carefully considered to reflect the character and authenticity synonymous with both brands. The result is a watch that feels contemporary today, yet timeless for generations to come.”

Inspired by the timeless elegance of the Aston Martin DB5, every detail of the Top Time Tribute to Aston Martin DB5 brings together two design legacies: the tactile richness of Aston Martin interiors and the modern-retro codes of the Top Time. The cushion-shaped case, grooved corners, and mushroom pushers recall the distinctive profile of the 1960s chronograph, while the “squircle” subdials capture the look of classic car dashboard gauges.

A wooden inner ring draws on the DB5’s steering wheel, and the hand-colored gradient leather strap reflects the depth and tone of fine automotive upholstery. Together, these elements create a watch shaped with the same attention to detail.

“This chronograph blends form with true function,” says Breitling’s Head of Product Design Pablo Widmer. “As with the Aston Martin DB5, its beauty lies in its lines, materials, and finishings.”

The collection is offered in three editions:
• Stainless steel with a silver dial, limited to 1,022 pieces, offers a balanced take that’s closest in spirit to the original Top Time ref. 2002.
• Steel and platinum with a black lacquered dial, limited to 315 pieces, introduces contrast and depth, with the platinum bezel adding weight and presence against the high-gloss black surface.
• 18k red gold with onyx dial, limited to 250 individually numbered pieces, brings an even more elevated expression. The dial is cut from natural onyx, the first use of the stone by Breitling, revealing a unique depth and luster.

Across all three, the design details translate the Aston Martin DB5’s interior craftsmanship into a contemporary chronograph.

Manufacture performance
The engine of the watch is the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01, a COSC-certified chronograph movement designed for precision and reliability. Its column-wheel architecture and vertical clutch ensure smooth, accurate operation, while a 70-hour power reserve supports extended wear.

Visible through the open sapphire-crystal caseback, the movement is finished with a dedicated Aston Martin–engraved rotor – rhodium-plated or 18k red gold, depending on the version. Each edition pairs this performance with a design language rooted in one of the most recognizable cars ever made.

The Top Time Tribute to Aston Martin DB5 revisits a moment when two distinct approaches to design aligned. One shaped in performance and proportion, the other in precision and form. Together, they continue to be markers of style, that stand the test of time.

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Shifting high horology into the realms of authentic Japanese history, Roger Dubuis unveils Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy  a timepiece rich in samurai culture and refined Métiers d’Art.

UNITY AROUND THE TABLE
This new creation takes its inspiration from the 17th century, at a perilous time when Japan stood divided by relentless warfare. In a fractured land, rival warlords fought for supremacy with unrelenting ambition.

A resolution, however, was soon to emerge under the impulse of three notable leaders. By uniting the country’s bushō (samurai commanders), the leaders established a new path and political order for Japan. Through their vision and determination, unification, peace, and prosperity flourished in the country for over 250 years, with Edo Castle sitting at the symbolic heart of a reformed society.

In conceiving this timepiece, Roger Dubuis echoes that circle of solidarity – the very moment that Japanese conflict was transformed into lasting harmony.

THE EMBLEMATIC KABUTO
Within Japan’s changing world, the country’s united bushō were each represented by their individual Kabuto – a ceremonial and protective helmet that served as a statement of their lineage, philosophy, and aspirations.

Importantly, the Kabuto is also a depiction of meticulous craftsmanship – the essential thread that connects this story with the high watchmaking of Roger Dubuis. The Maison has therefore begun its homage to this epic Japanese tale by reinterpreting the Kabuto of twelve influential bushō on the dial.

Through precise Métiers d’Art, the micro-sculpted Kabuto are faithfully recreated in 18K pink gold, revealing unique symbolism and intricate hand-engraved detail.

Each one takes 2 to 3 days of skilled work, while the most delicate elements to craft are the ornaments at the front of the Kabuto, which stand as the iconic and visible signatures of the bushō.

DEPICTING THE SAMURAI

UNITY AROUND THE TABLE THE EMBLEMATIC KABUTO DEPICTING THE SAMURAI EDO CASTLE
CALIBRE INGENUITY FINAL WORDS TIMEPIECE CARD APPENDIX

The circle begins at 12 o’clock with the shōgun, Tokugawa Ieyasu, one of the leading architects of the unified Japan, whose Kabuto has a fern to exemplify success and longevity.

The legendary samurai commanders who fought on behalf of Tokugawa Ieyasu came to be known as the Four Heavenly Kings of the Tokugawa. They each take their place around the table of this dial, and include:

Honda Tadakatsu at 1 o’clock, a commander renowned for his loyalty to Tokugawa, and whose integrity established the country’s moral standard for generations. His iconic Kabuto reveals deer antlers as a source of divine protection.

Sakai Tadatsugu at 2 o’clock, an elder statesman of renowned wisdom and battlefield prowess, who helped establish the foundations of Tokugawa governance. His Kabuto represents the pinnacle of the craft, with a sword shaped front to symbolize righteousness and the cutting away of evil.

Sakakibara Yasumasa at 4 o’clock, who was known for his sound judgement. His sword-decorated Kabuto represents strong martial virtue and the samurai’s soul, along with the idea of cutting through deception to reveal truth.

At 9 o’clock is Ii Naomasa, a diplomatically brilliant commander. His Kabuto symbolizes bravery, with towering tenshō extending from each side.

EDO CASTLE
At the centre of the dial, Roger Dubuis has interpreted the architecture of Edo Castle. Through abstract and contemporary language, the towering fortress appears with a deep blue coating, inspired by the indigo dye that was originally used for samurai garments, and later on, the artistic expression of Japanese art and textiles. The layered construction features decorative finishing on every facet, including polishing and bright polishing as well as circular brushing and shot-blasting to showcase the castle’s façade.

UNITY AROUND THE TABLE THE EMBLEMATIC KABUTO DEPICTING THE SAMURAI EDO CASTLE
CALIBRE INGENUITY FINAL WORDS TIMEPIECE CARD APPENDIX

CALIBRE INGENUITY
Limited to a collection of 28 exclusive pieces, these 45 mm watches are made in 18K pink gold and feature a crown surrounded by a blue enamel ring. They are worn on a blue calf-skin leather strap, distinctively crafted with stitched tiles to resemble the armour of a samurai. Tributes to the twelve bushō continue on the caseback, where their twelve crests are laser-engraved on a blue-coated pink gold ring, covered by a sapphire glass to show an elaborate rotor.

It is thanks to the RD821 calibre that the daring expressivity of this watch is made possible. The automatic movement allows space to stage the compelling aesthetics. With 60 hours of power reserve and 14 different finishing techniques, this in-house calibre is certified by the Poinçon de Genève.

UNITY AROUND THE TABLE THE EMBLEMATIC KABUTO DEPICTING THE SAMURAI EDO CASTLE
CALIBRE INGENUITY FINAL WORDS TIMEPIECE CARD APPENDIX

FINAL WORDS
To bring historical accuracy and authenticity to the creation of this watch, Roger Dubuis worked alongside Frederik Cryns, Professor of Japanese History and Consultant on the Emmy-winning TV series, Shōgun. His expertise allowed the design to come to life in the most genuine way.

He says, “Samurai culture produced some of the most extraordinary wearable art in human history. That this tradition of master craftsmanship now meets the art of haute horlogerie feels entirely fitting. Both disciplines demand the same uncompromising pursuit of excellence.”

The post LEGENDARY SAMURAI COMMANDERS ASSEMBLE AS ROGER DUBUIS INTRODUCES EXCALIBUR THE KABUTO LEGACY appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

Submersible Navy SEALs PAM01738 is a 44 mm steel tool watch blending Navy SEALs-inspired design codes with a professional configuration. Bringing a new level of technical performance to the 44 mm size, the watch is fitted with the P.980 caliber, a 3-day power reserve automatic movement which includes a traversing balance bridge that enhances stability and performance accuracy.

The movement features a stop-second function, allowing for precise synchronization by halting the seconds hand when the crown is pulled out. This functionality directly harks back to Panerai’s military heritage and the critical requirement for precise time coordination, a capability highly valued in demanding professional diving environments, such as the Navy. Further demonstrating its commitment to accuracy, the P.980 has undergone six-position testing to ensure reliable chronometric performance and its construction operates at a frequency designed to maintain consistent, accurate timekeeping over extended use.

With Submersible Navy SEALs PAM01738, Panerai places the emphasis on functional features that strengthen the watch’s diving vocation. The timepiece boasts a unidirectional rotating steel bezel, allowing for the calculation of immersion time, with a black matte ceramic disc, a combination that merges the mechanical properties of steel with the higher resistance of ceramic, ensuring the bezel’s ability to withstand the shocks and unintended contacts it typically endures. Designed for deep-sea exploration, the timepiece is water-resistant up to 50 BAR (~500 meters) due to its construction, component quality, and increased case-back thickness, which helps reinforce resistance to pressure.

Legibility remains a central priority. The dial features large luminescent hour markers and hands for improved visibility in low-light conditions while the big indexes are designed for enhanced readability, especially useful for adventures in challenging environments. These indexes are wider by 20% in diameter with an expanded Super-LumiNova® X2 surface area by 45%, ensuring greater luminescence. In the dark, the Submersible’s specific luminous language comes into play: the hour markers emit a green glow, while the minute hand and the luminous dot at 12 o’clock on the bezel appear in blue, allowing the wearer to identify diving time quickly and intuitively, even in low-visibility conditions. The black rubberized crown prioritizes functionality and durability, providing enhanced ergonomics and grip when setting the watch, even in wet conditions.

The dial preserves the collection’s visual identity while refining it with details chosen for readability and immediate recognition. A shaded anthracite surface, a target-inspired small seconds counter at 9 o’clock, and subtle yellow accents serve as direct references to Navy SEALs codes. At 6 o’clock, a dedicated decal incorporates both a dedicated ‘Navy SEALs’ and water-resistance standard decal, while the closed case back is engraved with the licensed Navy SEALs insignia.

The novelty comes with two straps, and its strap system allows for quick personalization whereas the interchangeable strap system allows for quick personalization. The first strap, in black rubber, is the ideal choice for even the most challenging underwater operations, while the second is in grey canvas, conveying a rugged look.
Submersible Navy SEALs PAM01738 will be available worldwide and hit boutiques from July 2026.

End-to-End Reliability Testing
Panerai’s approach to quality is defined by an uncompromising testing philosophy rooted in its military heritage. Rather than relying solely on sample-based validation, Panerai applies a two-level testing approach. Representative batches of each model undergo extensive laboratory testing that simulate years of real-world use to verify that the design and manufacturing meet the brand’s standards for durability, reliability and long-term performance under extreme conditions. These watches are used specifically for validation and are not sold. In parallel, every finished watch is individually tested under water, with the only exception of watches featuring Minute Repeater and GLS/2005 calibres and cases in Bronzo, before delivery, including water resistance controls performed at levels exceeding the stated specification by 25%, to ensure reliable function in real conditions of use without affecting its condition as a new product.

A “no fogging” protocol tests the sealing integrity. Thermal shock resistance is assessed by repeatedly transitioning watches between 70°C and 5°C, preventing deformation and ensuring stability across sudden environmental changes. To replicate long-term wear, aging and lifecycle tests condense a decade of usage into a matter of weeks. Components undergo 10,000 activations of the crown-protecting lever, 19,000 bezel rotations – including exposure to sand and water.

Movements are tested through 3.6 million manual winding cycles and 8 million automatic rotor rotations, ensuring sustained performance over time. Resistance to magnetism is validated up to approximately 1000 Gauss, maintaining operational continuity and limiting deviation to less than 20 seconds per day.

Additional protocols include corrosion testing in saline and humid environments, UV exposure, resistance to cosmetics and friction, as well as shock tests such as impact tests involving tens of thousands of micro-shocks and significant impacts up to 5000g. Watches are also dropped from one meter onto hard surfaces to simulate real-life conditions. Every component – case, movement, dial, bracelet, and clasp – is independently tested for tensile strength, adhesion, and durability. Materials in contact with the skin are subject to toxicological analysis, including nickel release compliance and international safety standards.

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This year, the M.A.D.Gallery is inviting several of its mechanical artists to imagine special limited editions for its 15th anniversary. The creative celebrations started with Berlin-based designer Frank Buchwald and his ML15 Helios, a sculptural light built around the idea of a mechanical sun. Now it is the turn of British designer Martin Smith, who also found inspiration in the M.A.D. Gallery’s 15 journeys around the sun with his Solar Orbiter watch winder.

Like Buchwald, Smith was one of the first designers to contribute to the M.A.D.Gallery, working under the name of Laikingland, the creative collaboration he founded with lifelong friend and engineer Nick Regan. Laikingland brought a playful mechanical spirit to the gallery with kinetic sculptures that played with themes of humour, nonsense and futility. Together, they created works including The Applause Machine and Fingers, the latter designed by Nik Ramage.

The Solar Orbiter Watch Winder
For this anniversary creation, Smith has designed and produced a sculptural watch winder from his own studio in West Yorkshire. The brief was simply to create a kinetic object that would signal the M.A.D.Gallery’s 15 years. Smith had been working on a number of wind-powered works which naturally led him to the idea of the sun. “When Max saw the design, he asked if it could become a watch winder, which was funny because I could kind of see that coming!” explains Smith with a smile.

Called the Solar Orbiter, Smith describes it as: “chaotic, mesmerizing, sophisticated in its construction, and a bit quirky”. Keen eyes will notice that it incorporates elements from all the works Smith and Laikingland had previously created for the M.A.D.Gallery, including the clapping hand and heart. The design draws upon his love for toys with interchangeable parts and captures the spirit of the Eames Solar Do-Nothing Machine, an aluminium solar-powered sculpture created in the 1950s to demonstrate solar electricity long before it was a thing.

For Smith, it was important that the mechanism should not resemble a watch movement. His original idea was to use 15 wheels as a nod to the 15th anniversary, but unfortunately a few more had to be added to make the sculpture function! Each piece is crafted from over 300 handmade parts in steel, aluminium, brass and carved-wood and comes with an interchangeable heart, hand, and star. Measuring 60 cm in height, with a width and depth of 40 cm, it is powered by custom electronics that allow for different winding speeds that operate in total silence. There will be 10 numbered pieces. Each one comes in a custom shipping crate that features a screen printing of the Solar Orbiter on the outside.

“My sister and brother-in-law have a screen-printing business so we decided to screen print a design of the Solar Orbiter on the outside of the crate. It turned out so well that you could almost hang it on your wall, which then made us worry that it might get damaged in transit. So now the crate is protected inside a cardboard box.” he shares. There is also a numbered and signed print inside the box that serves as the certificate of authenticity.

Part kinetic sculpture and part horological accessory, the Solar Orbiter captures the spirit that has defined the M.A.D.Gallery since its inception by showcasing mechanical creativity in all its forms. Martin Smith’s latest creation reminds us that mechanical art is at its most compelling when it brings together imagination, engineering and playfulness.

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In 1976, legendary Geneva artist and watch designer Gérald Genta created the Ingenieur SL, Reference 1832. Revolutionary for its purity of form and the boldness of its presence, it announced the birth of an entirely new product category within the watch industry. Half a century on, the stainless steel luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet has lost none of its luster.

In 2023, IWC Schaffhausen brought back Gérald Genta’s visionary design with the Ingenieur Automatic 40. While honoring the original’s distinct aesthetic, the model was comprehensively re-engineered to meet the highest standards of ergonomics and finishing. The Swiss luxury watchmaker has since then continuously expanded the collection. A milestone came with the Ingenieur Automatic 35 – a more compact model in a 35-millimeter case size. Now, IWC Schaffhausen adds a new chapter with a surprising Pool-colored dial.

The Ingenieur Automatic 35 (Ref. IW324902) features a 35-millimeter case and integrated bracelet crafted in robust and durable stainless steel. Its centerpiece is the dial in a fresh new color called Pool. As it is characteristic of the Ingenieur, the dial carries the signature “Grid” pattern consisting of small lines and squares that lends it striking visual depth. Rhodium-plated hands and applied indices filled with Super-LumiNova® provide elegant contrast and ensure easy legibility in low light conditions. The distinctive bezel, another defining design code of the Ingenieur, is secured to the case ring by five functional screws. Finally, the bracelet, which attaches via the middle links, improves the ergonomics and offers a supple and comfortable fit on the wrist. The “Probus Scafusia” featured on the crown underlines IWC’s unwavering commitment to craftsmanship and manufacturing excellence.

“Our new Pool color is a fresh, radiant aquatic shade that feels made for summer – and it brings a surprising and vibrant new expression to the Ingenieur. The dial captures light in a beautiful way, and it perfectly complements the clean lines and the refined proportions of the Genta-inspired integrated bracelet design,” explains Christian Knoop, Creative Director at IWC Schaffhausen.

A FASCINATING PLAY OF LIGHT ACROSS EVERY SURFACE

The Ingenieur Automatic 35 leaves nothing to be desired in terms of finishing. The watch skillfully combines different surface treatments to achieve a beautiful interplay of light during the day and at night. Both the case and bezel feature satin-finished and polished surfaces, while the bracelet’s center links are polished against satin-finished H-links. A sapphire crystal case back reveals the Caliber 47110 within. The automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve is decorated with circular graining and Geneva stripes and also features a gold-plated oscillating mass.

THE 35-MILLIMETER COLLECTION NOW SPANS SIX MODELS

At Watches and Wonders in Geneva, IWC introduced the Ingenieur Automatic 35 (Ref. IW324911) with a diamond-set 18-karat 5N gold bezel, and the Ingenieur Automatic 35 (Ref. IW324907) with a deep blue dial. These three models complete a collection that originally comprised the Ingenieur Automatic 35 in stainless steel with a silver-plated dial (Ref. IW324901) and a black dial (Ref. IW324906), as well as one edition crafted entirely in 18-karat 5N gold and featuring a gold-colored dial (Ref. IW324903).

The post NEW POOL DIAL COLOR GIVES THE INGENIEUR AUTOMATIC 35 A VIBRANT EXPRESSION appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

Breguet celebrates the tourbillon legacy with a number of exclusive creations

Since then, the Manufacture has continued to foster the progress of the great watchmaker’s invention, constantly drawing on its original inspiration, while over the decades introducing valuable technical refinements serving a single purpose: the quest for precision. All the new models presented today are part of this vision.

A prestigious lineage

Nearly 40 years later, the legacy mission championed by the House of Breguet has led to a magnificent resurgence of the tourbillon, which has returned to the forefront of watchmaking desirability. While the invention that we owe to Breguet has been widely adopted by virtually all players in the industry, only the Manufacture possesses its historical legitimacy, backed by the famous patent of 26 June 1801, exactly 225 years ago.

“The tourbillon is not merely another complication at Breguet: it is part of our DNA and has embodied the House’s spirit of innovation for more than two centuries. Since its invention, we have continually reinvented and refined it in a constant pursuit of chronometric performance, technical mastery and mechanical beauty.”

Gregory Kissling, CEO of Montres Breguet

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A fusion of material and light, the Royal Blue dials are entirely hand-crafted in the manner of a “mille-feuille”, composed of successive layers of lacquer, pure gold leaf and natural blue pigments in varying shades. A chromatic combination at once subtle and noble, steeped in history and meaning, this edition carries a poetic and philosophical resonance that transcends the boundaries of mere aesthetic refinement.

A silent dialogue between what passes and what remains, it unites two absolutes that seem to stand in opposition. On one side, time – elusive, inexorable. On the other, gold – imperishable, immutable.

One flows, and never stops. The other is eternal.

KEY HIGHLIGHTS

Pure gold – a first: AWAKE unveils a limited edition with unique dials marrying, for the first time in watchmaking, ancestral Vietnamese Sơn Mài lacquer and pure gold leaf gilding. A chromatic combination at once noble and powerful, steeped in history and meaning.

200 pieces: inspired by the silent dialogue between gold and time – between what passes and what endures.

15 hours per dial: A complex process, entirely executed by hand, where every gesture matters with one sole purpose : the pursuit of perfection.

New 38mm case: perfectly balanced, with refined proportions and an assured elegance.

New handwritten logo: with fluid, organic lines – a tribute to the gesture of the artisans.

Swiss La Joux-Perret movements: offering 68 hours of power reserve, fitted with our new rotor.

Jean Rousseau straps: in Alcantara, equipped with our new micro-adjustable pin buckle.

PRESERVATION, MODERNIZATION AND TRANSMISSION

AWAKE’s vision and interpretation of Métiers d’Art extends far beyond the watch itself, becoming an opportunity to cast light on craftsmanship – here, Vietnamese – while transcending borders and celebrating identities and cultures within the intimate space of a dial, all while championing a love of beauty, of handwork, of slowness, and of timelessness. Each of the Maison’s projects is driven by a commitment to preserve and celebrate artisanal savoir-faire by anchoring it firmly within our contemporary lives.

INSPIRATION : “WHERE TIME FLOWS, GOLD ENDURES”

There exist materials that do not merely adorn – they signify, they symbolize. Pure gold, which we introduce for the first time into our dials, was not chosen solely for its brilliance, but for what it embodies: permanence in the face of the ephemeral, the essential over the accessory. In this sense, incorporating pure gold into our watch dials reflects a desire to weave a silent dialogue between what passes and what remains… At once material and light, the gold present in the Royal Blue dials is, in its own way, an expression of our refusal of the ephemeral : gold as a silent victory over time…

“Choosing to incorporate pure gold into our watch dials is a decision that transcends aesthetics. It is a way of affirming, without words, that one believes in what endures and never fades.»

Lilian THIBAULT – Founder of AWAKE

BLUE AND GOLD : A FASCINATING DUO, STEEPED IN MEANING AND HISTORY

Gold is perhaps the most universal and powerful symbol that exists. Across virtually every culture, gold carries a divine and spiritual dimension, embodying that which is rare, precious and worthy of preservation. In the collective imagination, it represents above all perfection and the absolute. And while it naturally evokes power and wealth, we prefer the idea of an immaterial richness that transcends mere money : a lasting, imperishable wealth – to be preserved and passed on. In a word : gold is that which is never lost… Blue, for its part, is omnipresent in our daily lives. Evoking by turns the sky, the sea, the infinite, it is most often associated with wisdom, serenity and spirituality. A symbol of vastness and depth, its influence extends far beyond the purely visual, shaping our emotions and our perception of the world…

Brought together at the heart of the Royal Blue dials, blue and gold form a chromatic combination that is universally noble and powerful, built on strong contrasts : as a backdrop, the varying shades of blue – from deep sapphire to soft sky blue – create a sense of depth and recession, while the gold, warm and luminous, comes forward and draws the eye. Each magnifies the other, creating a timeless contrast of rare beauty, synonymous with elegance and refinement.

“SEEKING THE GOLD OF TIME”

For the very first time, AWAKE introduces pure gold into the crafting of its Sơn Mài lacquer dials, in a poetic and philosophical approach that transcends the boundaries of mere aesthetic refinement – uniting two absolutes that seem to stand in opposition. On one side, time : elusive, fleeting, inexorable. On the other, gold : immutable, eternal. One flows, and never stops. The other is imperishable. At the heart of the Royal Blue dials, gold becomes a witness to that which must not be forgotten.

Where silver leaf once reflected the light, gold holds it, warms it, and lends it a new depth. Imperishable by nature, pure gold does not age. Elevated by the brilliance of the lacquer, enriched with layers of natural blue pigments, gold here does not merely adorn : it signifies. A deliberate choice, symbolizing our commitment to push, with each new collection, the boundaries of our savoir-faire. To bring pure gold into our dials is to inscribe each timepiece within a millennia-old tradition of perfection, while affirming, with quiet conviction, that there exist materials which do not justify themselves – they simply impose themselves… Royal Blue is conceived as an invitation to open one’s eyes wide, to look beyond what is obvious or visible, and to seek out what lies hidden or forgotten…

“For AWAKE, ‘seeking the gold of time’ is a perpetual quest for the beauty, the magic and the enchantment that surround us everywhere. »

Thibaut SACRE – COO of AWAKE

THE ROYAL BLUE DIALS

Royal Blue offers a sensory and deeply intimate experience: the warmth of gold and its quiet brilliance at the wrist create a sense of reassurance and protection. Yet far beyond mere adornment, wearing Royal Blue becomes an act laden with meaning – conscious or not – that speaks of the one who wears it, of what they value, and of what they wish to pass on. An ordinary watch measures time, while Royal Blue transcends it, reminding us at every moment of that duality between the eternal and the ephemeral. In this sense, Royal Blue was conceived as a silent dialogue between what passes and what remains…

Months of work, boundless creativity, a constant drive to push the boundaries of their art, and an exceptionally high level of dexterity were required of our master lacquer artisans to obtain, from natural pigments alone, the ideal palette of blues – and to envision how to marry them with Sơn Mài lacquer and pure gold leaf through a complex and demanding technique known as “glacis” (Frosted), enabling the creation of organic, deep and mysterious dials with an icy, frosted luminescence.

15 HOURS OF FOCUS PER DIAL

An exceptional savoir-faire, the technique employed in crafting the Royal Blue dials demands remarkable concentration and skill from our master lacquer artisans. A lengthy, complex process – entirely executed by hand – where every gesture matters, driven by one sole purpose: the pursuit of perfection.

• A rare and delicate raw material: It all begins with the sap of the Rhus verniciflua tree, which grows in northern Vietnam. After a decade of growth, each tree yields only 200ml of sap per year, harvested exclusively in the early morning hours of June and July. Purified and dehydrated, this sap becomes a transparent lacquer, renowned for its brilliance and protective qualities.

• A unique ancestral Vietnamese art: Inherited from a centuries-old tradition and requiring many years of practice to master, the Sơn Mài technique consists of applying, layering and polishing multiple coats of natural lacquer until an unmatched mirror-like depth of finish is achieved. Unlike Chinese and Japanese schools, Vietnamese artisans incorporate precious materials into the lacquer – here, pure gold – to create unique textures, relief effects and interplays of light.

• The quiet, warm brilliance of gold leaf: : The artisans first apply a base layer of lacquer and deep blue pigments to the dial, then varnish it. A first layer of pure gold leaf is then laid down, applied by brush and delicately sanded to remove any excess material, lending the dial an organic texture with warm metallic reflections that capture light with remarkable intensity.

• Symbolic colors and exceptional depth: This is where our technique known as “Frosted” (“Glacis”) comes into play, considerably increasing the complexity of our dials. Rather than beginning the layering process as on a “classic” dial, our master artisans repeat the previous process, once again suspending delicate gold leaf within the lacquer – this time enriched with lighter blue pigments. Between each layer, the material rests, breathes and matures – a reflection of a technique that demands patience and repetition, and follows the slow rhythm of time itself…

• Passion down to the very fingertips: This « mille-feuille” of material then passes into the hands of the workshop’s most experienced artisan, for a long finger-sanding process that gradually reveals hypnotic reliefs and patterns, rendering each dial utterly unique. Several further coats of lacquer – each sanded and polished in turn – are applied to bestow upon the dial an impeccable brilliance and seal it for eternity. A demanding and methodical process of some fifteen hours, throughout which the slightest lapse in attention would condemn the dial entirely.

• A unique work of art: The entire process – mobilizing patience, dexterity and extreme concentration – transforms each Royal Blue dial into a unique, living piece upon which light and time seem to pause, the better to enter into dialogue. Born of an entirely artisanal process, each dial carries within it the breath of an artisan, the ancient gestures of an expert hand connecting centuries of savoir-faire to the modern world.

NEW 38MM CASE
Royal Blue is fitted with our new 38mm case, with refined proportions and an assured elegance. Perfectly balanced, it captivates with its polished bezel featuring concave lines that allow the dial to take centre stage, its gently domed sapphire crystal, and its slightly downward-sloping lugs, extended by a subtle stepped profile evoking the aesthetics of the 1960s while retaining a resolutely contemporary feel. The interplay of contrasts between polished surfaces and brushed flanks underscores this refined modernity, while the crown – slightly resized and now screw-down for water resistance to 100 meters – is adorned with a new emblem symbolizing our commitment to Artisanship. On the case back, a redesigned rehaut, more legible and authentic, engraves this vision into the very heart of the material.

NEW BRAND IDENTITY
The Royal Blue dials also bear our new visual identity : a handwritten logo with fluid, organic lines – a tribute to the gesture of the artisans. More than a mere aesthetic evolution, it reflects a deeper intention : to place tradition, savoir-faire and Métiers d’Art at the heart of a contemporary expression. Accompanied by an emblem evocative of transmission and dialogue between cultures, this ensemble embodies a sensitive and committed vision, where every detail celebrates the richness of artisanal heritage and our determination to preserve it.

ELEVATING MATERIAL AND ILLUMINATING SAVOIR-FAIRE
Royal Blue incorporates our exclusive luminous signature, designed to unite innovation, elegance and emotion, while enhancing the depth and interplay of materials across the dials – by day and by night. Hands and indices adopt an innovative construction combining Super-LumiNova® BGW9 with steel caps in polished, brushed and chiseled finishes, ensuring a subtle diffusion of light and clear legibility without altering the dial. During the day, discretion prevails, while in darkness, the luminescence reveals its full intensity. A soft halo then emanates, enhancing the brilliance of the lacquer and the intense contrast between the blue pigments and the pure gold. The result : an immersive visual poetry, between shadow and light, where technique and emotion converge.

LA JOUX-PERRET G101 MOVEMENT
Royal Blue is powered by the G101 automatic movement – reliable, high-performing and beautifully finished – from Swiss manufacture La Joux-Perret. A modern, precise caliber boasting a 68-hour power reserve, it is fitted with our new custom-developed rotor, machined from a solid block of tungsten. Combining raised and recessed surfaces, it benefits from an exceptional level of finishing – polished, brushed and micro-blasted – ending the ensemble a presence that is at once technical and elegant. The whole is framed by a redesigned rehaut, more legible and more authentic, engraved with our mission : “Illuminating the hands and heritage behind rare crafts”, as well as our brand signature : “Artisanship, Awakened ».

JEAN ROUSSEAU STRAPS
To complement the Royal Blue dials, we have selected a blue Alcantara strap, handcrafted by the artisans of the Jean Rousseau manufacture. Considered in every detail, it combines refined finishing, tone-on-tone stitching and a rubberized calfskin lining, while incorporating lugs perfectly suited to the 38mm case for a flawless fit. The Royal Blue strap is fitted with our new Fitwell M1 micro-adjustable pin buckle, offering precise adjustment in 3mm increments for optimal comfort throughout the day. A technical and refined ensemble, conceived for the most discerning enthusiasts, where every detail enhances the daily wearing experience. Dimensions : 115×75 – 20/16.
AN UNMATCHED VALUE PROPOSITION
Unique dials incorporating pure gold for the very first time, entirely handcrafted according to two ancestral Métiers d’Art, an exclusive and unprecedented luminous signature, a renowned Swiss movement, and handcrafted straps made in France – all at a price of €3,000, taxes and shipping included. True to our vision, we work tirelessly to offer, within our price range, a singular proposition uniting aesthetic excellence, horological quality, artisanal savoir-faire and pure emotion.

The post ROYAL BLUE – Seeking the gold of time – appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.

In 2024, the Antarctique Green Meteor introduced collectors to the particular beauty of meteorite as a dial material: its Widmanstätten pattern, formed over millions of years as molten iron-nickel alloys cooled in the void of space, creates an optical illusion of infinite depth that no hand or machine can replicate. The Frozen Meteor continues this exploration, shifting the colour register from the warmth of forest green to something altogether cooler and more austere — a blue that calls to mind raw denim, polar ice at dusk, and the metallic grey of a winter sky.

From the Gibeon Crater, via GT Cadrans
The dials of both the Frozen Meteor and Antarctique S Frozen Meteor are produced by GT Cadrans, near Lausanne, from slices of the Gibeon meteorite — a mass of octahedrite iron-nickel that fell over what is now Namibia in prehistoric times, estimated at approximately 600 million years ago. Each disc must be acid-washed and polished by hand to reveal the full geometry of the Widmanstätten lines before any tinting is applied; the precise angle of those lines, determined by the plane on which the raw mass is cut, is different in every slice.

For the Frozen Meteor, the meteorite’s natural silvery-grey surface has been transformed by a light blue lacquer — applied in successive layers and polished to a precise finish — that shifts in tone as the light changes angle. The denim quality of this blue is deliberate: less saturated than Czapek’s Cosmic Blue, colder than a the Aqua blue tone, it resonates with the brushed surfaces of the stainless steel case in a way that feels entirely coherent. The faceted trapezoid indexes and sword-shaped hands of the Antarctique are kept to their characteristic simplicity, leaving the meteorite’s crystalline architecture to carry the dial.

Because the Widmanstätten pattern is a function of natural crystal formation — not a repeatable manufacturing process — no two dials present the same geometry. Each of the 38 pieces in the 40.5mm edition, and each of the 25 in the Antarctique S, carries a dial that is genuinely singular.

A New-Generation Integrated Bracelet
The Frozen Meteor editions feature the new V2 generation of the Antarctique integrated stainless steel bracelet, produced in Switzerland by STL Swiss and RD Manufacture, two specialists whose expertise in bracelet manufacturing allow Czapek to achieve the level of geometric precision and finishing consistency the collection demands. As with dials, and certain specialised components, bracelet production requires dedicated industrial processes and tooling that for now fall outside the scope of the manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, which remains focused on movement production and case manufacturing. The principle of établissage applies here as it does elsewhere: working with Switzerland’s finest specialists ensures both independence and quality.

The V2 bracelet is not a stylistic revision. The design language of the Antarctique bracelet — its C-shaped polished central links and brushed outer surfaces — remains intact. What has changed is the precision of execution. Tighter machining tolerances throughout the manufacturing process produce greater consistency link to link, sharper transitions at edges and angles, and a more solid, defined feel on the wrist, with reduced play between components. Certain surfaces on the underside of the bracelet have been refined from a brushed to a satin finish, a detail that preserves the intended geometry more faithfully and improves the overall visual resolution of the piece. The bracelet is now fully disassemblable, simplifying refinishing and servicing considerably during after-sales interventions.

The clasp has been completely redesigned and is manufactured by the same Swiss suppliers responsible for the new bracelet generation. The V2 quick-change system replaces the previous rotating locking mechanism with an ergonomic push-button release operable directly with the thumb, without tools. The system is already starting to be implemented across current Antarctique S, steel and titanium models. Owners of a V1 bracelet who wish to benefit from the new system may do so by purchasing a new V2-equipped bracelet through Czapek’s authorised service network at a special “owner” price.

In-House Calibre SXH5
Visible through the sapphire caseback, both models are powered by Calibre SXH5 — the first movement conceived entirely in-house by Czapek, introduced with the Antarctique collection in 2020, and still the emotional and technical signature of the line. At 30mm in diameter and 4.2mm in height, the movement holds 193 components across 28 jewels. It runs at 4 Hz (28,800 vph) via a Swiss lever escapement with a variable-inertia balance wheel regulated by four gold inertia-blocks, and delivers 60 hours of power reserve from a single barrel at a torque of 8.8 Nmm. The off-centre micro-rotor in 100% recycled 950 platinum winds bidirectionally; platinum’s density ensures optimal inertia in an extremely compact footprint.

Seven skeletonised bridges — their silhouette drawn from the architecture of François Czapek’s 19th-century pocket watches — arrange the gear train for maximum visual transparency. The finishing throughout is commensurate with haute horlogerie: sandblasted black bridges, straight-grained bridge flanks, open ratchets, and six hand-chamfered inward angles. Through the sapphire caseback, it reads as a composition as much as a mechanism.

The post STEEL-BLUE FROM THE UNIVERSE 
CZAPEK INTRODUCES THE ANTARCTIQUE FROZEN METEOR IN TWO SIZES appeared first on Arab Watch Guide.