Since 2015, on the initiative of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud in the Val- de-Travers (Switzerland) has devoted itself to reviving one of the greatest names in watchmaking: Ferdinand Berthoud (1727-1807).
Guided by the same quest for precision as the master horologist, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud is celebrating its tenth anniversary this year. To mark the occasion, the Manufacture presents a very limited series of the Chronomètre FB 3SPC. Platinum makes its first appearance in this collection, whose mechanical movement with a cylindrical balance- spring is also attired in new pink or black PVD colours.

The philosophy driving Chronométrie Ferdinand Ber thoud since the launch of its f i rst collection in 2015 is far more than merely a t r ibute to the work of the eponymous master- watchmaker. I t t ransposes into contemporar y watchmaking language the quest for excellence and precision of the man who was appointed Master Clockmaker- Mechanic by appointment to the ( French) King and Navy. No fewer than nine exclusive calibres and three collections have been presented s ince 2015 : Chronomètre FB 1 with i ts now iconic octagonal case; the FB 2 collection whose case design reinterprets the shape of marine clocks; as well as the FB 3 , which is inspired by the longitude watches designed by Ferdinand Ber thoud. To mark the tenth anniversar y of Chronométrie Ferdinand Ber thoud, the iconic FB 3 SPC collection with a cylindrical balance- spring has been enriched with a ver y limited edition of platinum t imepieces that can also be set with precious stones.

The nobility of platinum

Making a platinum case as complex as that of the FB 3 collection demonstrates the Maison’ s exceptional exper t ise. More than 30 hours of work are required to machine and f inish this 57 – par t case. Polishing platinum is a par t icularly delicate operation, requiring more ef for t and patience than for other precious metals. Platinum i s a ver y dense yet extremely malleable metal. Only the most experienced polishers are able to achieve the desired brilliance meeting the Ferdinand Ber thoud quality criteria. Unlike gold, platinum cannot be polished by pressing ver y hard on the metal with a polishing brush. Doing so creates waves or a dull haze on the sur face, due to the molecular structure of this noble material whose inalterable nature makes i t much sought after by discerning collectors.

A cer t i f ied award- winning movement

The FB 3 SPC collection is the only wristwatch with a variable- iner t ia balance and a cylindrical balance spring, chronometer- cer t i f ied by the Of f ic ial Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute ( COSC) and awarded the Chronometr y prize at the Grand Prix d’ Horlogerie de Genève ( GPHG) in 2023 .

Its mechanical movement is based on a cylindrical balance- spring, an extremely rare horological speciality on which Ferdinand Ber thoud himself had worked. I t is the result of more than three years of research and development. Positioned at 9 o’ clock, the three main escapement components – namely the balance, pallet- lever and escape- wheel – are individualised, distinct and proeminent. This space dedicated to the regulating organ enables one to appreciate how i t functions and to see the cylindrical balance- spring beating throughout the three days of the power reser ve, including through a large water- resistant por thole in the case middle at 9 o’ clock.

Two new movement colours

Thanks to i ts unique three- dimensional architecture with the mainplate positioned at the hear t of the movement and the bridges f raming it , Calibre FB- SPC is fully visible through the case- back as well as on the dial s ide. The way i t is decorated thus determines the character of the t imepiece, as do the two new pink and black PVD- t reated versions – produced in 20 – piece l imited series – that are joining the FB 3 collection.

The FB 3 SPC. 3 model features a f inely sandblasted salmon pink movement, a velvet- f inished s i lver- toned brass inner bezel r ing and dial, along with facetted and diamond- polished blue CVD- t reated 18 – carat gold hands. The regulating organ bridges visible at 9 o’ clock are made of straight- grained natural nickel silver.

Meanwhile, Reference FB 3 SPC. 3 – 1 is equipped with a black PVD- t reated sandblasted movement, a black- varnished inner bezel and dial, along with 18 – carat white gold hands. To accentuate the intensity of the movement’ s black hues, the regulating organ bridges and the barrel drum are t reated with black rhodium, while the gear t rains are white rhodium- t reated.

Carefully chosen diamonds

Each of these two references will also be available in a diamond- set version, produced in a f ive- piece limited edition. Benefiting f rom Chopard’ s exper tise, the case, crown and buckle have been subtly reworked to accommodate diamonds of exceptional quality and cut. Each stone is then set with the utmost care to obtain a par ticularly elegant setting of 77 diamonds totalling 4 . 02 carats: 48 baguette- cut diamonds on the bezel, 10 on the pin buckle and 18 on the crown. The latter is also enhanced with a briolette- cut diamond.

A new folding clasp

Traditionally accompanied by a hand- sewn natural alligator leather strap and an 18 mm pin buckle, the FB 3 SPC collection can now on request be equipped with a new 18 mm folding clasp. The latter features two blades, with a safety catch on the cap and a f ine- adjustment mechanism enabling +/- 3 mm length modifications to f i t the exact wrist size.

Already present on the folding c lasps of the FB 1 and FB 2 collections, this mechanism equips the new version appearing with the Chronomètre FB 3 SPC, whose design has been subtly reworked to adapt per fectly to the cur ve of the FB 3 case. This new c lasp is available on request in 5 N 18 – carat rose gold or in 18 – carat non- rhodium- t reated white gold.

Through these new variations, Chronométrie Ferdinand Ber thoud reaf f irms its desire to perpetuate the FB 3 collection, which requires the greatest watchmaking exper t ise, in order to produce and adjust around 30 chronometer- cer t i f ied movements of this type each year. This launch also marks the star t of celebrations for Chronométrie Ferdinand Ber thoud, which is celebrating its tenth anniversar y in 2025 .