Schaffhausen, 3rd July 2025: IWC Schaffhausen introduces the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph. Limited to 100 pieces, this masterwork of fine watchmaking combines a flying minute tourbillon with a retrograde date display and a flyback chronograph. Its 43.5-millimetre case is crafted from 18-carat Armor Gold®, a material offering significantly better hardness values than conventional gold alloys. The Obsidian-coloured dial is crafted in a complex process, including the application of 15 layers of transparent lacquer. The IWC-manufactured 89900 calibre with a solid gold oscillating mass can be viewed through the sapphire glass case back.
In 2024, IWC Schaffhausen introduced new design codes to its Portugieser collection, including a range of new signature colours. Called Horizon Blue, Dune, Obsidian and Silver Moon, these colours reflect the eternal cycle of day and night and the constant flow of time. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer now presents a new model with three complications featuring an Obsidian-coloured dial.
Limited to 100 pieces, the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph (Ref. IW394009) features a case, pushers and crown meticulously crafted from 18-carat Armor Gold®. Thanks to an improved microstructure, this material boasts significantly better hardness values than conventional gold alloys. The Obsidian-coloured dial is manufactured in a complex process comprising 60 individual steps. Fifteen layers of transparent lacquer give it an incredible optical depth and an almost three-dimensional effect. The dial is complemented by gold-plated hands and solid gold appliques. The watch is fitted with a black alligator leather strap from the Italian leather artisan Santoni with an 18-carat Armor Gold® folding clasp.
A STATE-OF-THE-ART FLYING MINUTE TOURBILLON
The tourbillon is one of the most spectacular complications in fine watchmaking, both for the complexity of its design and its striking visual appeal. This intricate mechanism places the pallet lever and the escape wheel inside a small cage that rotates around its axis once every minute. The continuous rotation reduces the effects of gravity on the watch’s oscillating system and contributes to a more precise rate. Weighing only 0.675 grams in total, the flying minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock consists of 56 individual parts. With the integrated tourbillon stop, it can be brought to a complete halt and the time set with down-to-the-second accuracy. The pallet lever and the escape wheel are made of silicone and coated using IWC’s proprietary Diamond Shell® technology. This special coating reduces friction and improves the flow of energy in the movement, contributing to the generous power reserve of 68 hours.
RETROGRADE DATE DISPLAY AND FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH
In addition to the flying minute tourbillon, the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph also features a retrograde date display located at 9 o’clock on the dial. A small hand points to the current date on an arch-shaped scale ranging from the 1st to the 31st. After reaching the end of the month, the hand will jump back to the starting position. The third complication is the flyback chronograph, displaying the stopped hours and minutes combined in a totaliser at 12 o’clock. The flyback chronograph enables very rapid restarting of the chronograph function while it is running. When the chronograph button is pushed, the chronograph hands will immediately reset to zero and start a new timing.
The Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph is powered by the IWC-manufactured 89900 calibre, a highly sophisticated automatic movement comprising a total of 375 individual parts. Elaborately decorated with Geneva stripes and circular graining, the movement can be observed through the sapphire glass case back. The oscillating mass of the automatic winding system is crafted from solid gold.
