In the glow of Roger Dubuis’ iconic tourbillon heritage, a blazing new timepiece arises. Told from two sides, this is a story of fascinating contrasts, where modern expressivity is met by renowned watchmaking heritage.
Introducing the new Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon.
This mesmerizing new Central Monotourbillon perfectly highlights the duality of Roger Dubuis – and its ability to cross the generations of watchmaking to strike the perfect balance between the past and the future.
Following the original Orbis in Machina launched earlier this year, this newest edition, decorated with rubies and diamonds, is unveiled at Watches and Wonders Shanghai 2024, standing vividly apart amongst the Maison’s extravagant line-up of tourbillon designs.
A Rarity in Watchmaking
Roger Dubuis’ fascination with the tourbillon goes back its founder, who not only saw the prestige in this legendary complication, but also the possibilities it presented. For Mr. Roger Dubuis, the compact nature of the tourbillon was a way to gain more space within a watch design, which could be used for adding further complications, or for adding more expressive aesthetics.
His vision has since guided the Maison on an impressive tourbillon journey, underscored by a variety of tourbillon creations in many different forms.
Today, that variety has naturally evolved to include the central placement of the tourbillon – a rare sight within watchmaking due to the number of challenges it poses.
Whether that is finding a different way to display the hands or redistributing the movement’s components around the tourbillon itself, Roger Dubuis has now firmly embraced the Central Monotourbillon and found its own novel ways around the complexity.
Ingenious Innovation
Rather than being deterred by the difficulty of the Central Monotourbillon, the Roger Dubuis watchmakers have taken an innovative approach, which has moved away from traditional horological theory, and led to two patent-pending systems that have revolutionized the Maison’s Central Tourbillon engineering.
These innovative solutions include the new “planetary system”, a specialised geartrain that has allowed the mechanism itself to be purified as well as compacted. This has firmly established a more refined look and gives more room to play with the surrounding aesthetics.
The second pending patent is the friction clutch release system that allows to release the hands in order to set the time. One of the challenges of having a Central Monotourbillon is the display of the time as the space normally used by the hands is occupied by the tourbillon’s cage. On this calibre, the hands are driven using ball bearings, while the friction clutch system, with the help of a clip, allows to safely disengage the hands so that the watch can be set with assured stability.
Orbis: the Circular Style
By conquering the central placement of the tourbillon, the stage has been set for a clean and ultra-modern décor, which radiates out across the face of the watch.
As opposed to the familiar sharp lines and angles we are used to seeing in a skeletonized Roger Dubuis tourbillon, this latest creation is one of the most fascinating milestones yet, as it embraces a circular form, with round lines and a hypnotic concentricity that distinguishes it within the Maison’s collection.
The sublime roundness of the Orbis in Machina starts at the middle, where the watchmakers have worked outwards, delivering a pure display of concentric circles in pink gold that indicate the seconds, minutes, and hours. A sublime reinterpretation of the Maison’s signature skeleton style.
Each circle is also set at a different height, creating a compelling multi-levelled décor that offers a glimpse of the skeletonised calibre beneath.
The name, Orbis in Machina, is indeed a nod to this circular orbit of the watch’s display, as well as the revolving nature of the tourbillon. A fusion of movement and mechanical ingenuity that brings the concept to life.
From Technicality to Artistry
Separating this edition of the Orbis in Machina to the original, the inclusion of diamonds and rubies gives this new watch its own distinctive sense of power, elegance, and remarkable sophistication.
Reflecting the eminent reputation of the Central Monotourbillon, the Maison has chosen to decorate the timepiece in 132 baguette-cut gems, not only for a statement of style, but also for an impression of high-level success and determination.
The embellishment includes 12 rubies and 48 diamonds on the dial, and a sparkling framework of 72 diamonds on the bezel. It’s a beautiful contrast of colour that helps to enhance the radiant warmth of the watch’s 45mm case in 18K pink gold, while also matching the red calf-skin leather strap with its Quick Release System.
A Caseback of Horological Excellence
Of course, the front of the Orbis in Machina is only half the story. In harmonious contrast to its modern face, the transparent sapphire crystal caseback acts as a window to the traditions and excellence of Geneva fine watchmaking.
Here, we most clearly see the duality that characterises Roger Dubuis. The caseback is an ode to classical high horology, demonstrated by expertise of the highest order.
Perhaps most noticeably, the selection bolt is inspired by the ancient “Ébauche” components of high horology, which derive from the early 20th century. This has allowed the watchmakers to place the winding and setting system at the bottom of the movement, creating more space above for the hour hand.
The artistry and hand finishing is almost baroque in its appearance, with elaborate detailing that feels rich and exclusive. Specific details to admire include the sliced bridges, and the rounder lines, which are very much rooted in classic Geneva haute horologie.
The reward for this dynamic approach is the Poinçon de Genève certification, one of the most demanding signatures in fine watchmaking. Along with provenance and reliability, it requires all visible surfaces of the movement to be hand-finished. Therefore, 19 specific finishing techniques are used on the 283 component of the Calibre RD115, including elegant perlage, Côte de Genève, and snailing.
Mastery on Display
Limited to just 8 pieces, this immaculate Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon celebrates exactly who Roger Dubuis is today. A watchmaker committed to traditional know-how, but with the modern creativity to push the boundaries further.
This timepiece takes pride of place at Watches and Wonders Shanghai 2024 within a collection of four new tourbillons from Roger Dubuis, also including The Excalibur Monotourbillon Blue Hour, the Excalibur Double Tourbillon Cobalt Chrome, and the Excalibur Monotourbillon White Gold.
Each new creation stands as an homage to Roger Dubuis’ enduring tourbillon craftsmanship. Fuelled by expressivity and unexpected innovation, the Maison yet again proves its passion for reinterpreting this historic complication – in all its forms, and with all its many complexities.
